new 2007

[jmbcary44]

Hello, New owner and new to the forum.

just bought a 2007 sr5 4WD v8. 66k miles

Went over the basics before buying and check fluids and service history and overall im very happy.

Just curious what you all would think to check first now that its mine in regards to preventative maintenance and upgrades. Im not talking lifts or anything major, just little mods.. I checked the threads on here and the MAF sensor seems like a good staring point to check. obviously ill change the oil and likely do a radiaitor flush.

Wasnt sure if a tranny flush or anything really would be needed and I know the timing belt is around 90k.

just want to cover my bases, thoughts?

 

[JEL]

I'd just do a drain and refill on every fluid so that you have a known starting point on everything, and you know what's in there is correct and to the correct levels. The ATF can be tricky, but I think anytime after 60k is a good place to begin thinking about it on the "lifetime" atf, I just did a drain and refill on mine with WS at 60k, and plan on doing it every 30-40k from here on due to the fact I do a lot of driving over mountain passes (especially in winter in 4wd).

I'd do this:

-Oil (5w30 big brand synthetic) and OEM filter
-Pink Toyota SLLC antifreeze, either a radiator drain and refill or two, or a complete change, but no flush with outside chemicals or water.
-Both diffs and t-case with a quality 75w90 or 80w90
-Grease the drive shafts and such, front and rear
-Flush the brake fluid (often forgotten/neglected), it was probably the reason my front left caliper was seizing up at such a young age.
-A couple turkey baster drain and refills in the PS fluid reservoir (often forgotten)
-Wax to protect that shiny paint for the winter
-Get a good look at everything, including shocks and front end parts
-Check/change PCV valve
-Check/change cabin and engine air filters

*disclaimer, I am a bit OCD and can't sleep right until I've been through 100% of any new rig I buy, but I may be a bit excessive with my maintenance.

 

[jmbcary44]

Thanks for the response, is the pink fluid specific to yota cooling systems?

appreciate the insight also

 

[JEL]

Thanks for the response, is the pink fluid specific to yota cooling systems?

appreciate the insight also

Yep, I wouldn't use anything else. IIRC all Toyotas since '04? started using the pink stuff. It's a long life coolant and I know the initial fill is supposed to be 10yr/100k, and 5yr/50k after, but if you get a jump on it early you can keep it plenty fresh just by doing a radiator drain and fill every couple of years. This of course keeps the additives fresh, but it should also help to cut down on some of the grit that finds its way into the system over the years.

Some guys here and there have used some of the other stuff available from third parties, but in all honesty you know the pink Toyota stuff will work 100% and in the grand scheme of a 50k mile change the cost differential is negligible.

 

[NuclearN8]

[MENTION=116812]jmbcary44[/MENTION]

Congrats on the new to your 4Runner. I agree with [MENTION=88866]JEL[/MENTION]...

Other smaller items to consider that will improve your on road handling and make the 4Runner feel better driving are new poly sway bar bushings and new rear endlinks.
You can do both of these for under $100 if you know how to use basic tools, which i'm guessing you do.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/34115-swaybar-bushing-upgrade.html
an example of one of many good places to order from...
measure twice before ordering... Prothane Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS
(they also sell non-greasable versions...)
for rear endlinks...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...sh-extended-rear-sway-bar-links-write-up.html
or
Custom(ish) Extended Rear Sway Bar Links Write-up - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
or
a few members also make them on here in the classifieds section but they're more expensive obviously...

the one thing often overlooked or rarely discussed here when new owners ask this question is to do some sort of frame rust protection/ prevention. Being in NC you probably don't have as much of an issue if your vehicle is a NC native... buuut you do have the opportunity to hit up the OBX and be near sea salt... so I would say investigate your options... I've done Fluid Film (sold on amazon for about $50 by the gallon) which requires annual applications for the most part and also POR-15 which if properly applied only requires one application for life probably... (more expensive though... probably $200 in supplies to do the entire undercarriage)

some more items that come to mind....keep in mind though I'm like [MENTION=88866]JEL[/MENTION] and overkill maintenance quite a bit on all my cars....

is the battery original? the original panasonics have been known to last a long time but you're going on 8 years of infrequent use with only 66K miles... might be something to consider for piece of mind replacing.

spark plugs?- change em, they're cheap...
serpentine belt, check it for dryrot... also cheap and easy to replace...
put a can of techron or seafoam in your gas tank on next fill up

If you like to drive with the rear window down (I do because it makes me remember having my dog)... you probably want to do the resonator delete and side exit exhaust mod to prevent gases from entering the cabin through the open rear window.
Resonator removed - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

 

[jmbcary44]

Great info, you all are very helpful and willing to share info which is great. I previously owned a 2500HD Duramax and would try to contribute on those forums as much as I could and barely got this much response ever, so thank you all.

I am curious as you mention the rear end, would this help the little jolt I get when letting off the brake from a stop? I noticed when in traffic or decelerating froma moderate speed to a stop that when I let off initially the car kinda of shifts it feels like, doesnt seem bad, just nto something im used to I thought it may be torque but again I have had trucks with quite a bit before and not noticed that type pull. Almost like an axle wrap??

Doesnt happen everytime though.

I was also curious and have looked throught he forum for an answer but the 4wd system should I leave the knob on the right of the wheel in between the 4H and 4Lo or on 4H all the time, I thought if left on 4H it would bind and I believe from what ive read in the manual and on here to switch on the left side is for the differential lock?

I would hate to drive in 4H if not needed and I def dont want to drive with the dif locked of in 4Lo

 

[JEL]

The jolt sounds like the infamous driveshaft thump, a little grease in the zerks will cure this issue. IIRC it's the rear slip yolk that needs grease to fix the thud, which needs moly grease. I typically do a few pumps in each zerk at every oil change simply because I live underwater (Seattle) 10 months a year and do nothing but highway driving, so in my mind at least that creates the perfect atmosphere to "wash" away the grease faster. :rofl:

As far as the knob goes, for everyday driving 4hi is what you want with your V8. That little button to the left of the wheel is indeed the center diff lock button, you can use that in 4hi or 4lo and have it operate as a "traditional" 4wd system, but only off-road or in snow where you won't get the binding like you would on normal hard, dry roads. 4hi unlocked (no orange icon on the dash, button un-pushed) effectively leaves the center torson LSD diff unlocked and it performs similarly to many of the AWD systems on the market. The Multi-Mode system is great, I love being able to set my V6 (both 3rd and 4th gen) in 4hi unlocked when it starts snowing in town and motor on without having to worry about dry patches on corners under trees and such.

I know there are others who should chime in about the mechanical operation of the center diff, as I am not as well-versed on its operation as they are.

 

[tdsmither]

The jolt sounds like the infamous driveshaft thump, a little grease in the zerks will cure this issue. IIRC it's the rear slip yolk that needs grease to fix the thud, which needs moly grease. I typically do a few pumps in each zerk at every oil change simply because I live underwater (Seattle) 10 months a year and do nothing but highway driving, so in my mind at least that creates the perfect atmosphere to "wash" away the grease faster. :rofl:

As far as the knob goes, for everyday driving 4hi is what you want with your V8. That little button to the left of the wheel is indeed the center diff lock button, you can use that in 4hi or 4lo and have it operate as a "traditional" 4wd system, but only off-road or in snow where you won't get the binding like you would on normal hard, dry roads. 4hi unlocked (no orange icon on the dash, button un-pushed) effectively leaves the center torson LSD diff unlocked and it performs similarly to many of the AWD systems on the market. The Multi-Mode system is great, I love being able to set my V6 (both 3rd and 4th gen) in 4hi unlocked when it starts snowing in town and motor on without having to worry about dry patches on corners under trees and such.

I know there are others who should chime in about the mechanical operation of the center diff, as I am not as well-versed on its operation as they are.

So does this mean I can drive around in 4wd in my 04 Sport instead of using 2wd?

 

[JEL]

So does this mean I can drive around in 4wd in my 04 Sport instead of using 2wd?

Yes, I assume you have a V6? If so, you can leave it in 4hi with the CD unlocked 24/7/365 no matter if it's bone dry or snowing. I know a lot of guys run around in 4hi unlocked all year round, it'll operate just as the full-time 4wd V8 operates in 4hi as long as you keep that CD unlocked.

 

[tdsmither]

Yes, I assume you have a V6? If so, you can leave it in 4hi with the CD unlocked 24/7/365 no matter if it's bone dry or snowing. I know a lot of guys run around in 4hi unlocked all year round, it'll operate just as the full-time 4wd V8 operates in 4hi as long as you keep that CD unlocked.

Awesome, thanks. another dumb question, how do I lock the differential?

 

[philskeeter]

Awesome, thanks. another dumb question, how do I lock the differential?

I don't know the text book answer but I know it must be in 4wd first. Once mine is in 4H or 4L I put it back in neutral and hit the center diff button and it locks. After I put it in neutral and hit it again and it unlocks. I'm not sure putting it in neutral is necessary but I never asked and it's never hurt. Someone will jump in and help clarify

 

[JEL]

That's the button, has to be in 4hi or 4lo, don't try to engage it when turning or the wheels are spinning. I usually stop or roll at less than 5mph before hitting the button.