New 2015 Trail Lift or Level?

[Blue15]

New to the forum, and to my 2015 trail.

Been doing a lot of reading on the forum requiring lift/level. The vehicle I traded in for the 4runner was a 2008 Chevy Trailblazer, I had installed a lift/level by SuspensionMaxx, a company out of Michigan and Bilstein HD's all around, worked great for my needs while improving stance and ride. Did replace pinion seal twice in 80,000 miles.

Presently I'm reading the many threads and referring to forum lift guide in my phone and internet search for best option on my Trail.

Where the spacers worked fine for the 2008 TB, I read it's a less than an optimal option for front lift/level on 4R. I was originally thinking the REVTEK or TOYTEC front only spacer with diff drop kit, but have read a fair share stating front spacer only limits upward shock travel, and over extends down travel, and gives a poor ride.

Looked at a new 4R in show room today (Rodland Toyota) with a 3" ready lift kit installed, not sure I need all that but looks freaking awesome, I just do the weekend logging roads to go shooting, hunting, camping and prospecting, not a wheeler by any means. And of course concerned with the life decrease in components with the more extreme angle changes a higher lifts creates. One other dealer I was taking with (Foothills Toyota) used the REVTEK 3" lift and stated no issues with warranty claims. The dealer I purchased mine at (Magic Toyota) doesn't even offer level or lifts on 4R. I know dealer install, $$$$$$, but can't do it myself for several reasons.

Qestion, will just installing Bilstein adjustable 5100's in front and setting for level, or slight front rake to compensate for rear load when out doing my thing work? Never came across this scenario in the many threads.

 

[cjacob316]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/165065-5th-gen-4runner-lift-buyers-guide.html

 

[LandCruiser]

Buy once, cry once.

Do a proper LIFT, and a quality one at that.

 

[SKP-4R]

If it's in your Budget, ICON stage 1 is your best bet.

Definitely pricey but you can't beat the ride quality for a lift kit. Much better than spacers and rides much nicer than Toytech, Bilstein, etc.

If you are looking for extended travel, I suggest moving up to the stage 2. IMHO it has the best bang for your buck. Bilsteins are definitely a good option, and I would only go with Bilstein if you didn't want to spend the $$ on an ICON kit.

However, I think that since you purchased the Trail, you'll find that the 5100 Bilstiens are close to what you already have. You might get some height but if you're going to spend the money on new suspension buying the best you can afford would be the way go. Bilstein 6112 are a great shock for the money, but again you can't beat ICON build quality. They are valved specifically for 5th-gen 4Runners.

I currently have stage 2 on my Trail and am very happy so far. ICON is definitely expensive, but I think at the very least you should avoid spacers. You can't go wrong with a proven kit.

I'd be happy to share some more info and a place to buy them from (at a great discount) if you're interested.

Good Luck!

New to the forum, and to my 2015 trail.

Been doing a lot of reading on the forum requiring lift/level. The vehicle I traded in for the 4runner was a 2008 Chevy Trailblazer, I had installed a lift/level by SuspensionMaxx, a company out of Michigan and Bilstein HD's all around, worked great for my needs while improving stance and ride. Did replace pinion seal twice in 80,000 miles.

Presently I'm reading the many threads and referring to forum lift guide in my phone and internet search for best option on my Trail.

Where the spacers worked fine for the 2008 TB, I read it's a less than an optimal option for front lift/level on 4R. I was originally thinking the REVTEK or TOYTEC front only spacer with diff drop kit, but have read a fair share stating front spacer only limits upward shock travel, and over extends down travel, and gives a poor ride.

Looked at a new 4R in show room today (Rodland Toyota) with a 3" ready lift kit installed, not sure I need all that but looks freaking awesome, I just do the weekend logging roads to go shooting, hunting, camping and prospecting, not a wheeler by any means. And of course concerned with the life decrease in components with the more extreme angle changes a higher lifts creates. One other dealer I was taking with (Foothills Toyota) used the REVTEK 3" lift and stated no issues with warranty claims. The dealer I purchased mine at (Magic Toyota) doesn't even offer level or lifts on 4R. I know dealer install, $$$$$$, but can't do it myself for several reasons.

Qestion, will just installing Bilstein adjustable 5100's in front and setting for level, or slight front rake to compensate for rear load when out doing my thing work? Never came across this scenario in the many threads.

 

[Blue15]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/165065-5th-gen-4runner-lift-buyers-guide.html

It was that thread that get me started on the lift quest. Good info, called a lot of the manufactures asking questions.

 

[cjacob316]

Sorry, I only skimmed your post, originally thinking you were looking for something a little better than spacers I just threw that link up to show you what's out there, after reading more of your post I noticed you already saw that guide and asked about 5100's. You probably don't need a lift to be honest, but using 5100's with the stock spring is very popular. I personally would keep a rake to account for weight in the rear.

 

[kapp_badbloodz]

lift it level... just sayin

 

[Lexusbstrdchild]

Sounds like Bilstein 5100s in front set to second setting, and nothing in the rear. OR third setting in front and small spacer for the rear to keep the back from sagging with additional weight. Of course it's your money, maybe you want a full Icon lift IDK.

 

[SD G-Mote]

lift it level. looks a lot better. My lift handles and rides much nicer than the stock ride/ handle.

 

[Blue15]

Thanks for all the reply's folks!

Sorry for the late reply, but took the day off work, relaxed a bit and then took in a concert, Spike and the Impalers, and Heart By Heart. Was a blast.

Starting to think at this point I'll keep the daily driver a little more in the daily mode by keeping the stock tire size, but replacing with Michelin LX AT2's and starting out with the 5100's in the front to level or a slight rake for rear load, and diff spacer, if the diff spaced is required.


If I win the lottery, I'll get another 4R & install the ICON Kit. Fingers crossed!

 

[Lexusbstrdchild]

Thanks for all the reply's folks!

Sorry for the late reply, but took the day off work, relaxed a bit and then took in a concert, Spike and the Impalers, and Heart By Heart. Was a blast.

Starting to think at this point I'll keep the daily driver a little more in the daily mode by keeping the stock tire size, but replacing with Michelin LX AT2's and starting out with the 5100's in the front to level or a slight rake for rear load, and diff spacer, if the diff spaced is required.


If I win the lottery, I'll get another 4R & install the ICON Kit. Fingers crossed!

Don't need the diff spacer, aka diff drop, on a leveling lift. I haven't heard of many people putting them on a full lift either for that matter.

 

[Jetboy]

Don't need the diff spacer, aka diff drop, on a leveling lift. I haven't heard of many people putting them on a full lift either for that matter.

Agreed. Even at 3" lift, the front shafts are less angle than a 3rd gen is stock. And at least my 3rd gen with a 1" lift went 210k on the original front axles - and is still going.

 

[Blue15]

Agreed. Even at 3" lift, the front shafts are less angle than a 3rd gen is stock. And at least my 3rd gen with a 1" lift went 210k on the original front axles - and is still going.

Don't need the diff spacer, aka diff drop, on a leveling lift. I haven't heard of many people putting them on a full lift either for that matter.

Thanks Good news.

 

[Blue15]

Sorry, I only skimmed your post, originally thinking you were looking for something a little better than spacers I just threw that link up to show you what's out there, after reading more of your post I noticed you already saw that guide and asked about 5100's. You probably don't need a lift to be honest, but using 5100's with the stock spring is very popular. I personally would keep a rake to account for weight in the rear.

How much rake did you maintain with your set up at 2.5 and 1 1/2 spacer.

Also when setting at the third or fourth is the full amount of lift achieved, or is there settling. I'm debating going the forth with rear spacer, or third setting and not needing a spacer.

Measurements with full tank and good TP are:
Center hub both front 19 1/2, both rear 21 7/8
Grond up both front 34, rear around 36 5/8

 

[CoastieRon]

How much rake did you maintain with your set up at 2.5 and 1 1/2 spacer.

Also when setting at the third or fourth is the full amount of lift achieved, or is there settling. I'm debating going the forth with rear spacer, or third setting and not needing a spacer.

Measurements with full tank and good TP are:
Center hub both front 19 1/2, both rear 21 7/8
Grond up both front 34, rear around 36 5/8

Blue,

I can personally attest to ensuring that you do this right the first time. I have mine set up with Bilstein 5100's 2.5 front/1.5 daystar rear spacer. So far so good, but now I'm just going to go to springs and do it right...like I should have done the first time. If you decide to go with the spacer route, I'll have one to sell shortly as I'm going with front and rear springs.

 

[Blue15]

Blue,

I can personally attest to ensuring that you do this right the first time. I have mine set up with Bilstein 5100's 2.5 front/1.5 daystar rear spacer. So far so good, but now I'm just going to go to springs and do it right...like I should have done the first time. If you decide to go with the spacer route, I'll have one to sell shortly as I'm going with front and rear springs.

Hows your front rake at that config. i dont OF, just improving ride and look. Want to keep some rake for passenger and gear load, no towing & keeping stock tire size.

 

[CoastieRon]

Hows your front rake at that config. i dont OF, just improving ride and look. Want to keep some rake for passenger and gear load, no towing & keeping stock tire size.

At 2.5/1.5, I have some front rake, but it's not as bad as factory (better than bro rake). You'll be happy with the Bilstein's and I'm sure everyone else can attest to that!

I think if you go 1.75 front and no rear, you'll be level with no weight, but as soon as you add some weight to the vehicle, you'll be reverse. Some go with .85 to prevent this and others add a rear spacer. OME sells a 10mm spacer you could look in to as well.

 

[3wbdriver]

Qestion, will just installing Bilstein adjustable 5100's in front and setting for level, or slight front rake to compensate for rear load when out doing my thing work? Never came across this scenario in the many threads.

Yes. I did mine this way for about 8 months. The only thing that made me change my setup was the addition of a front bumper and winch. If not for those I would still be rolling the 1.75" front and zero rear setup. If you want slight forward rake go with .85" in the front.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Lift measurements

...

Measurements with full tank and good TP are:
Center hub both front 19 1/2, both rear 21 7/8
Ground up both front 34, rear around 36 5/8

Not sure what you mean by the HUB? Whatever it is, the rear is 2 3/8 taller than the front.

In addition to what you've measured, I suggest you also measure the body vertically at the top of the wheel wells. This gives you a wider base which will show max change in lift from before to after. Sometimes the left and right sides come out different. By measuring before and after you can attribute the difference, or tilt, to the new lift or the car's original tilt.

 

[cjacob316]

How much rake did you maintain with your set up at 2.5 and 1 1/2 spacer.

Also when setting at the third or fourth is the full amount of lift achieved, or is there settling. I'm debating going the forth with rear spacer, or third setting and not needing a spacer.

Measurements with full tank and good TP are:
Center hub both front 19 1/2, both rear 21 7/8
Grond up both front 34, rear around 36 5/8

I had just under 2 inch difference between front and rear hub to fender measurements, so I still had about an inch after the lift, my springs also settled a bit so I'm not quite at 2.5 in the front anymore. I went with the adjustable fronts with the threaded collar so that I can fine tune it later after sagging, or raise it when I add weight tot he front.

Blue,

I can personally attest to ensuring that you do this right the first time. I have mine set up with Bilstein 5100's 2.5 front/1.5 daystar rear spacer. So far so good, but now I'm just going to go to springs and do it right...like I should have done the first time. If you decide to go with the spacer route, I'll have one to sell shortly as I'm going with front and rear springs.

My rear spacers are a place holder until I get a rear bumper, at which point I will get heavy enough springs to hold the bumper and a little gear. If I had not anticipated a bumper in the near future I likely would have gone springs right away, I just didn't want to waste a few hundred on springs that I would get rid of in a year or so. Otherwise I would suggest as you have and install new springs the first time.

I thought long and hard about how I was going to lift my 4runner. I didn't want to waste any more money than I had to, but I also didn't want to run springs that I shouldn't be running on a stock weight vehicle.