New 4 Runner Purchase

I'm also looking at this one too..

What do you guys think??

'98 for $6.5k (private seller 1 owner - had another kid needed a mini van)
'00 for $8k ( From a small dealer )

here's the '00
'00 Link
 
P.S. Anyone know if the 4WD system in a limited 98 is any different than the one's in a 99-00?

Right now all the ones I've looked at have the 4WD shifter where there's a push button on the left of the shifter.. Which as much as I've read is an AWD mode - meaning it doesn't lock the center differential, just provides power to all four wheels, e.g. for rainy days if it's slick..

Then you have to pull the lever back and it locks the center diff.. So now you're truely in 4H.. So for snow, gravel roads, where traction is limited...

Then you have to go to Neutral - (at this point you can engauge the rear diff locks) and go into 4L. For climbing basically < 5mph with diff lock.

Do I have this correct??
Is this the same system in the 98-00 LTD models?
It seams the shifter is the same in every one so far..
I'm going to look at the 98 tomorrow.
 
If I remember correctly the 4 wheel drive modes are different starting in '99.

What are the miles like on the '98 and '00?

Having a newer car is normally nicer, but for $1,500 more I'm not sure it's worth it. I also noticed the dent in the bumper of the '00. I guess if you feel like spending the money go for the '00.
 
only 99 and 00 limiteds have the same drivetrain.
98's are still good though. My 98 was solid. For a 98, I'd go for a 5 speed SR5.
 
I hear ya on why go to with 98's as a 5 speed, as they are more a true 4WD vehicle..

I do like the leather though on the limited's..
However it's not like you're getting really anything fundamentally different, like the 99's and 00's would be (AWD).

So I hear ya..
I'm thinking if I can get the '98 for 6K .. then it's a deal. And I'll only worry about 4WD when I hit true low traction roads (snow, mud, gravel etc.).

Otherwise if $7k is what it's for.. I may hold out to get a 99 - 00 for a couple grand more... Plus the '99-'00 has the extra power adaptors climate control, etc.
 
What do you mean you will only worry about 4WD when you get on low traction roads?

It will probably be easier to talk the private owner down than it will be to talk down the dealership.
 
I mean I would be more liberal engauging the AWD on the '00 in any condition (e.g. Rain) than I would true 4WD only when it snows, gravel roads, mud, etc..

The '00 is from a small dealer anyways.. so I think talking either down will be easy.
 
I've ready in other forums they say not to as in any true 4wd the front tires are turning faster ever so slightly than the rear.

So even in the rain you have too much traction, hence bindage can occure and wear down components..
 
KBB

Careful with Kelly blue book, values are slightly over stated IMO. You should be able to get the 98 limited between 5-6K.
 
no deal, he's firm at 7k.

And I'm definately more liking the '99 / '00 .. just the way some things were laid out in the '98 ... just didn't like.
 
Kreioth said:
I've ready in other forums they say not to as in any true 4wd the front tires are turning faster ever so slightly than the rear.

So even in the rain you have too much traction, hence bindage can occure and wear down components..
Click to expand...

So does that mean that your only supposed to use 4WD off road?
 
Clemsonfan15 said:
So does that mean that your only supposed to use 4WD off road?
Click to expand...

Yep, exactly!

Unless you've got a center differential (transfer case is not a center diff), that can be unlocked, driving in 4wd even in the rain is asking for trouble. There is more than enough traction to not engage a part-time 4wd system (or any system for that matter) on a regular rain slicked road. I've never seen the need to have 4wd engaged...sure it'll make you more stable getting up to speed...but what about when you need to stop, 4wd isn't going to help you then.

I've always gone by the rule that if you're in 2wd, driving normally (not goosing the gas, driving like a friggin re****), and the wheels are NOT slipiing, then it stays in 2wd. If they are slipping, and you are loosing forward momentum, then 4wd is justified. Of course there always are exceptions to this rule; driving on asphalt coming to large long mudhole, engage 4wd right before mud, etc.

Resource:
http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/def_turnpart.html
 
MunkeyTX said:
Yep, exactly!

Unless you've got a center differential (transfer case is not a center diff), that can be unlocked, driving in 4wd even in the rain is asking for trouble. There is more than enough traction to not engage a part-time 4wd system (or any system for that matter) on a regular rain slicked road. I've never seen the need to have 4wd engaged...sure it'll make you more stable getting up to speed...but what about when you need to stop, 4wd isn't going to help you then.

I've always gone by the rule that if you're in 2wd, driving normally (not goosing the gas, driving like a friggin re****), and the wheels are NOT slipiing, then it stays in 2wd. If they are slipping, and you are loosing forward momentum, then 4wd is justified. Of course there always are exceptions to this rule; driving on asphalt coming to large long mudhole, engage 4wd right before mud, etc.

Resource:
http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/def_turnpart.html
Click to expand...

That was a good read.

I'm really suprised that Toyota would recomend running 4WD at least 10 miles a month if it was dangerous.

In that article it says that it stresses joints and makes steering harder. I have noticed this. It is very diffcult to turn into a parting space when 4WD is engaged.

So I should only be using 4WD 10 miles a month?

Don't use it in the rain? Even if there are large puddles on the road? I'm not sure if 4WD helps or hurts if there are puddles in the road.
 
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