New battery won't turn over - HELP needed

scrapper

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New battery won't turn over - HELP needed *PIC*

I'm having this issue right now. While I installing the new battery the alarm would sound when the ground made contact w/ the post. I've reset the alarm with the method here. However, now mine is without lights, and won't crank/turn over. I do not know how to disconnect power to the alarm.
Please advise. I would appreciate it.

S.
 
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So the alarm goes off as soon as the battery is connected? And you get otherwise no power to anything else in the vehicle? How did you try to re-set the alarm?
 
Where is the alarm box?

Also, after I reset the alarm by turning ignition to 'on'
then pushing alarm button, and then back to 'off' then 'on' again - the alarm issue was resolved. But, now all power, i.e., lights, locks, dash etc. is dead.

Also, is this relevant? See the wire in this pic.
 

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  • IMG_0102.jpg
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The ground wire of any electrical device is just as important as the power. That wire looks like crap and should be connected to the frame. It's probably not the culprit for your drain but nontheless eliminate every variable. Now by the time you strip the current wire past the corrosion it will be a lot shorter so just buy a new ground wire. A new ground wire is like 8$ from O'Reillys (just did mine the other day). I went with the 36" and had slack (they will tell you 36 or 48 according to thier computer and if your doubtful just ask to take out of package and dry run it from engine bolt to battey). The other side bolts directly to the engine block. Instead of cutting my old one out of the bundle I just zip tied the new ground wire to the bundle making sure it cleared moving parts like the fan. Now remember when you hook that wire to the body back up, sand off all the rust so it actually makes a connection.

On a side note- dont over tighten the terminal of the wire that connects to the battery, it will break off and render the wire usless. Ask me how I know. And it's a 1/2" nut.
 
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HAHA! Your ground wire looks like complete ****. I would cut that crap off at the negative terminal and rewire it to chassis. As the person above me posted, that is as critical as the positive(+) and negative(-) altogether. I can guarantee thats your problem.

HERE:
IMG_0102_zps1889f91f.jpg~original


Your going to want to get tougher ones but these are what they look like. Good luck!
Wire-Connector_zps2cae944c.jpg~original


Look at the red one. Thats what you want.
hpim1210l.jpg~original
 
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Brian757 & Jagerzel, I am following your recommendations and replacing
the ground wire, circle clamp, and the rusted bolt on the frame.

I can't thank you guys enough for your help. I really appreciate it.

I'll post a follow up once it's done.
 
Brian757 & Jagerzel, I am following your recommendations and replacing
the ground wire, circle clamp, and the rusted bolt on the frame.

I can't thank you guys enough for your help. I really appreciate it.

I'll post a follow up once it's done.

For the bolt, to ensure that it will fit into that hole, I would just take sandpaper and polish the bolt up a bit. No need for a new one. And then take that sandpaper and sand the area around the hole on your chassis. That should be good to go. I would disconnect the negative terminal before grounding.
 

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