NEW BRAKES at 45K? is this kit legit?

[TOYOTA 09]

My 09 Taco is a 60K and the brakes are still good.....dealer told me my 2015 Runner need new brake pads/rotors at 45K

i can easily do that work myself!

is this kit legit?

Power Stop Z23 Evolution Brake Kits - Want The Lowest Price on Power Stop Brakes? | AutoAnything

what are people using for kits?

 

[TOYOTA 09]

oh yah...they also wanted $90 for a cabin and engine air filter (combined) lol

they suggested that i get the front/rear diff fluid changed out and the transfer case too.($150)..as well as a induction cleaning to get rid of built up carbon ($150)

i looked in the service guide and at 45K it mentions nothing about this?

we barley use the 4x4 option...just in the winter. should i change the fluids?

can't i get the same results to strip carbon by using seafoam?

 

[swampdodo]

I have used this kit twice on two different vehicles, but never on a 4runner.

The first vehicle was a 2006 Honda CRV and the second (current) vehicle is a 2008 Kia Sorento EX.

I order the first kit from RockAuto and the second kit from Amazon.

Here is the thing...they appear to be good quality items and it does seems to improve braking performance, but not necessarily braking 'feel', if that makes any sense.

Also, the hardware that comes with the kit, in my experience, could be better.

For the kit on the 2006 CRV...the kit came with two different sets of hardware (springs clips?), but no document on which one to use on the CRV (apparently, the kit works on CRVs and Accords). I ended up using the wrong one and had squeaking brakes. Changing the hardware fixed that.

For the second (current) kit, it came with the hardware (right ones) and some new caliper pin boots...BUT, the boots that came with the kit would in no way fit...I ended up using the original boots. (And the grease was missing, which is no big deal as there was never enough in the first kit.)

There are several youtube videos on this kit...you might want to research them for follow ups...

 

[swampdodo]

oh yah...they also wanted $90 for a cabin and engine air filter (combined) lol

they suggested that i get the front/rear diff fluid changed out and the transfer case too.($150)..as well as a induction cleaning to get rid of built up carbon ($150)

i looked in the service guide and at 45K it mentions nothing about this?

we barley use the 4x4 option...just in the winter. should i change the fluids?

can't i get the same results to strip carbon by using seafoam?

For the filters...IF they do both, that's actually not a bad price, but you still could do it cheaper (assuming OEM parts) yourself...order parts online.

For diff service/transfer case...unless you do a lot of off roading (mud, water, etc.) follow your owner's manual.

Carbon build up...unless it is a GDI, I would just do an 'Italian tuneup' once in a while and use good gas.

If you don't use your 4x4 actuators once in a while, they might get 'stuck' depending on what region of the county you live in. About every 6 months to a year, I would go out in a nice flat empty parking lot and put the vehicle through all the 4x4 modes just to 'exercise' the actuators and servos.

 

[TOYOTA 09]

any other kits i should look at?

 

[TOYOTA 09]

found an gem intake filter for $24:

Air Intake Filter. 2015 Toyota 4Runner TRAIL Premium 4.0L V6 4WD AT | Toyota


and a cabin filter for $21:

Cabin Filter. 2015 Toyota 4Runner TRAIL Premium 4.0L V6 4WD AT | Toyota

those are OEM right?

 

[swampdodo]

They appear to be OEM.

As for brakes...it is like tires, all a matter of personal choice and what you are going to do with it (vehicle).

Most of the 'good' mechanics I know stick with OEM parts, even though they can more expensive than aftermarket. If you are satisfied with how it performs when you got it, then stick with OEM.

BUT, are you sure you need new brakes (pads and rotors or just pads???)...dealership always seem, in my experience, to exaggerate things.

You might want to get an second opinion...second inspection (at a different place).

 

[TOYOTA 09]

They appear to be OEM.

As for brakes...it is like tires, all a matter of personal choice and what you are going to do with it (vehicle).

Most of the 'good' mechanics I know stick with OEM parts, even though they can more expensive than aftermarket. If you are satisfied with how it performs when you got it, then stick with OEM.

BUT, are you sure you need new brakes (pads and rotors or just pads???)...dealership always seem, in my experience, to exaggerate things.

You might want to get an second opinion...second inspection (at a different place).

not sure, i need to check for myself! i was always under the impression that if you put in new pads you should change rotors too???

 

[Dillusion]

I always change both pads and rotors.

At a minimum get the rotors turned but that means you would need to remove them, take them somewhere & put them back. I think its faster and less hassle to just slap new ones on.

Just pop your wheels of and look at the pads yourself before you buy.

 

[swampdodo]

There are various opinions on that.

In the old'in days, if the rotors weren't warped or damaged, we just slap on a new set of pads and went on our day.

If the rotors are okay, some just take some emery cloth to the rotors to 'break' the glaze...slap on new pads and go.

Some like to play it safe...I mean your life depends on it...change both rotors and pads.

In my opinion, rotors aren't made as robust as they use to, so you'll end up changing them anyway.

 

[Bumbo]

I just use Centric stuff from RockAuto... I think the pricing is pretty good and never had a problem with their parts.

Personally I would avoid cross drilled or slotted rotors... you are more likely to have problem than not for next to no benefit.