New lift combo TRD shocks, bilestine 5100s shocks, rear superflex & LC80 shock

[Bad Luck]

Yes it will

 

[feelingstoned]

Yes it will

Cool. I'll report back when its installed

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[feelingstoned]

Just installed. Bar is straight and seems to sit level now...I think lol

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[Presticlese]

Couple of notes...

When doing the rear suspension, you should be supporting the frame on jack stands to allow the rear suspension to droop on its own. Also, as part of the lift, you should loosen all of the pivot bolts for the rear links (10 locations, each end of the 5 links). That will allow the axle to droop all on its own (support with jack on the diff). Re-tighten the links after the truck is back down on its own weight. It will help the bushings last longer. Similar deal on the front - loosen the pivot bolt on the upper arm and the cam adjusters on the lower arm so that the suspension can naturally droop, then re-tighten back at ride height.

-Charlie

And don’t want to be bearer of bad news but u don’t want to be running the inner bump stop on the rear: u have the toytec 3” one I see but it’s recommended u don’t use it and Steve at Sonoran steel will tell you the lc coils r happier sitting directly on the cab. Like the work u did tho! Bilsteins in the 4th perch is ballsy, i think bilstein even adds a thing in the box saying don’t go above 3rd perch. An alternative would’ve been what I did using the tundra billies on the second to last with toytec eibach springs effortlessly achieved me 3” and some change in front lift height after my JBA upper CAs freed up the front and allowed it to rise to wher it is now level with rear

 

[Presticlese]

I'd rather just get a drop bracket and the one from toytec is cheaper, and looks easy to install. I'm just wondering how some people are running lifts higher than mine and theirs sits level. Maybe I'm just tripping, or my driveway is screwed up. I'll have to check it out tomorrow again, have someone drive behind me and see

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Most or all will not sit level so u can get the OME TRIM packer for rear driver spring or what I did ant toytec makes a part specific for it, get the best 1/4 spacer made out of aluminum that sits on the “top hat” of your coil and spring set up before u stick it in the strut tower and bolt it back up. Brings it level and part cost 35$

 

[UnderFire]

Awesome man. In my opinion that setup is just about as good as it gets without really breaking the bank. Make sure you've got room in the rear brake line, those superflex coils and LC shocks will flex like crazy if you want them to.

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[feelingstoned]

And don’t want to be bearer of bad news but u don’t want to be running the inner bump stop on the rear: u have the toytec 3” one I see but it’s recommended u don’t use it and Steve at Sonoran steel will tell you the lc coils r happier sitting directly on the cab. Like the work u did tho! Bilsteins in the 4th perch is ballsy, i think bilstein even adds a thing in the box saying don’t go above 3rd perch. An alternative would’ve been what I did using the tundra billies on the second to last with toytec eibach springs effortlessly achieved me 3” and some change in front lift height after my JBA upper CAs freed up the front and allowed it to rise to wher it is now level with rear

Why no bump stops? They're easy to take off so I'm not worried. And what happens if I stay on the 4th perch? The front is already tundra belistines and coils. My two other buddies have the same set up in the front and they're on the second perch. Am I going to cause damage in the front on the 4th perch?

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[feelingstoned]

Awesome man. In my opinion that setup is just about as good as it gets without really breaking the bank. Make sure you've got room in the rear brake line, those superflex coils and LC shocks will flex like crazy if you want them to.

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Yep already extender the brake line just to be sure

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[Bad Luck]

And don’t want to be bearer of bad news but u don’t want to be running the inner bump stop on the rear: u have the toytec 3” one I see but it’s recommended u don’t use it and Steve at Sonoran steel will tell you the lc coils r happier sitting directly on the cab. Like the work u did tho! Bilsteins in the 4th perch is ballsy, i think bilstein even adds a thing in the box saying don’t go above 3rd perch. An alternative would’ve been what I did using the tundra billies on the second to last with toytec eibach springs effortlessly achieved me 3” and some change in front lift height after my JBA upper CAs freed up the front and allowed it to rise to wher it is now level with rear

He has superflex coils in the rear not land cruiser coils.

 

[UnderFire]

Why no bump stops? They're easy to take off so I'm not worried. And what happens if I stay on the 4th perch? The front is already tundra belistines and coils. My two other buddies have the same set up in the front and they're on the second perch. Am I going to cause damage in the front on the 4th perch?

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As long as you're not over around 3" of static lift, able to get a good alignment, and you're OK with the ride quality there's not a single problem running on the 4th perch with the stock tundra coils, that's what they're built to do. The typical setup would be either 2nd or 3rd perch to achieve it, but you're not the first I've seen that had to go to the 4th to get it as high as they wanted. All the adjustment does is preload the springs.

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[feelingstoned]

As long as you're not over around 3" of static lift, able to get a good alignment, and you're OK with the ride quality there's not a single problem running on the 4th perch with the stock tundra coils, that's what they're built to do. The typical setup would be either 2nd or 3rd perch to achieve it, but you're not the first I've seen that had to go to the 4th to get it as high as they wanted. All the adjustment does is preload the springs.

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Gotcha, that makes sense. After I took out my old 5100s and the stock springs it sits at a true 3 inch with my front bumper and winch

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[raKnizek]

And don’t want to be bearer of bad news but u don’t want to be running the inner bump stop on the rear: u have the toytec 3” one I see but it’s recommended u don’t use it and Steve at Sonoran steel will tell you the lc coils r happier sitting directly on the cab. Like the work u did tho! Bilsteins in the 4th perch is ballsy, i think bilstein even adds a thing in the box saying don’t go above 3rd perch. An alternative would’ve been what I did using the tundra billies on the second to last with toytec eibach springs effortlessly achieved me 3” and some change in front lift height after my JBA upper CAs freed up the front and allowed it to rise to wher it is now level with rear

Can someone elaborate on why you don't want the rear inner bump stops? I have them installed now with my OME springs. On bumps that cause high frequency oscillation in the rear I do hear the bump stops slap against the spring mount. Maybe this is why?

 

[feelingstoned]

Can someone elaborate on why you don't want the rear inner bump stops? I have them installed now with my OME springs. On bumps that cause high frequency oscillation in the rear I do hear the bump stops slap against the spring mount. Maybe this is why?

Yeah if someone can reply to this. I heard mine only a couple times and when I was maxing out the suspension on purpose just to flex. But I wonder why we dont actually need them. They're there to prevent the shock from extending too much but I highly doubt the LC shocks are going to do that

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[Bad Luck]

Yeah if someone can reply to this. I heard mine only a couple times and when I was maxing out the suspension on purpose just to flex. But I wonder why we dont actually need them. They're there to prevent the shock from extending too much but I highly doubt the LC shocks are going to do that

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The cones in the rear coils are there to keep it from compressing too much. They do absolutely nothing if you flex so much that your coil comes unseated. The noise is likely coil slap from the lighter wraps hitting. Suplerflex coils are a dual rate coil with some coils taking less pressure than the rest to compress. The lighter coils are compressed during normal driving but during flex (or the rear bouncing enough) will decompress/compress with the rest of the spring.

 

[phattyduck]

Yeah if someone can reply to this. I heard mine only a couple times and when I was maxing out the suspension on purpose just to flex. But I wonder why we dont actually need them. They're there to prevent the shock from extending too much but I highly doubt the LC shocks are going to do that

The cone bumps are there for compression, not droop/extension. With OEM springs, they act as an overload spring to keep the axle off the frame bumps when carrying heavy loads. If you are lifted enough that you don't get close to the frame bump stops or you have extended frame bump stops, then they just act as upper spring isolators.

-Charlie

 

[feelingstoned]

The cone bumps are there for compression, not droop/extension. With OEM springs, they act as an overload spring to keep the axle off the frame bumps when carrying heavy loads. If you are lifted enough that you don't get close to the frame bump stops or you have extended frame bump stops, then they just act as upper spring isolators.



-Charlie

So you're saying take out the cone supports if I have the extended frame bump stops? Sounds like they both do the same thing and you really only need the bump stops if you're flexing a lot?

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[Bad Luck]

So you're saying take out the cone supports if I have the extended frame bump stops? Sounds like they both do the same thing and you really only need the bump stops if you're flexing a lot?

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If they aren't in your way then I would leave them in as an upper spring isolator

 

[raKnizek]

The cone bumps are there for compression, not droop/extension. With OEM springs, they act as an overload spring to keep the axle off the frame bumps when carrying heavy loads. If you are lifted enough that you don't get close to the frame bump stops or you have extended frame bump stops, then they just act as upper spring isolators.

-Charlie

So no harm in placing the springs directly in the seat? Seems like that would be louder

 

[phattyduck]

So you're saying take out the cone supports if I have the extended frame bump stops? Sounds like they both do the same thing and you really only need the bump stops if you're flexing a lot?

No, I wouldn't say that. Upper coil isolators are are a good thing, and keep there from being metal-to-metal contact on the upper spring seat.

I'm just saying that the secondary function (maybe primary function, from the factory?) is no longer in use if you have extended frame bump stops.

With factory suspension, they are very nice to have, and are what allow the 4Runner to have the payload capacity it does. Since they are soft, they act like a progressive rate to the springs under standard load compression (both sides compressed equally) and don't interfere with articulation (since they are so far inboard), which is nice. It also keeps you from hitting the hard frame bump stops in most situations, resulting in a more comfortable ride (again, with stock suspension).

-Charlie

 

[feelingstoned]

I guess while we're on the subject of keeping or swapping parts out, anyone recommend replacing upper control arms with this lift? Or not necessary?

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