New Master Cylinder - Bleeding the Brakes

T

TurboProp56

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Hello, I apologize if my specific questions have been answered, but I am reading very mixed reviews on what exactly is necessary, and have not found an answer yet that I think really covers my situation.

I have a used MC that I will be installing in the coming weeks, it is the MC and booster assembly. It is bone dry right now. When I do the install, and go to bleed the system, what exactly do I need to do to take care that I don't ruin the MC and that I can be sure I get all and any air out of the MC and booster?

Do I absolutely need to use a special scan tool to service the MC?

Can I perform a traditional bleed job, no scan tool, and then drive it 30 miles to a dealer where they will have to scan it?

Does it need a scan tool at all??

it is a 2007 w/ABS. Thanks for the help, appreciate it!
 
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I was able to do mine via the normal mechanical methods. Most people say you do need one. Check my posts about it.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/233237-brake-actuator-failure.html


TurboProp56 said:
Hello, I apologize if my specific questions have been answered, but I am reading very mixed reviews on what exactly is necessary, and have not found an answer yet that I think really covers my situation.

I have a used MC that I will be installing in the coming weeks, it is the MC and booster assembly. It is bone dry right now. When I do the install, and go to bleed the system, what exactly do I need to do to take care that I don't ruin the MC and that I can be sure I get all and any air out of the MC and booster?

Do I absolutely need to use a special scan tool to service the MC?

Can I perform a traditional bleed job, no scan tool, and then drive it 30 miles to a dealer where they will have to scan it?

Does it need a scan tool at all??

it is a 2007 w/ABS. Thanks for the help, appreciate it!
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the link, I had not run across that one. I am gaining confidence that i can do the bleed without damage to the system based on your results. Seems we both started with a unit that had no fluid in it.

So after I plug the connectors back in after the reinstall; fill it with fluid, should I begin right away with the truck off and pump the pedal the 40 to 50 times? Or is there a reason to turn key to ignition first?
 
If the accumulator is bone dry, you will need the Toyota scan tool to bleed it. It is impossible to get all the air out otherwise.

Also, I hope your used accumulator is from the same year of 4Runner that it is going in to... Otherwise it probably won't work properly.
 
Hmm, I was told it came from a late 2004, it has the same part number as my existing one, and looks the same. The research I did told me it should work just fine. What would be the issue for different years but same part number?


dkyleb said:
If the accumulator is bone dry, you will need the Toyota scan tool to bleed it. It is impossible to get all the air out otherwise.

Also, I hope your used accumulator is from the same year of 4Runner that it is going in to... Otherwise it probably won't work properly.
Click to expand...
 
How completely dried out are we talking? I may very well be talking beyoind my knowledge but once the seals in a hydrolic system become "bone dry" i believe they may be compromised . Was anything used to lube the seals before "bone" drying them? Are we talking soup bone dry or laying in the parching sun dry?
The way I understand it you have to exercise the anti lock valves to get all the air purged. Doing that, again as I understand, without the proper tool could lead to burning out the control valving. Again I'm no expert on any of that.
When the part is that pricey and the labor evolved comparatively easy maybe it's time to visit someone with the proper tool?
 
Well this is a bit embarrassing... so when I got this thing in a couple weeks ago, i took it out of the box, said yep, all there and much better looking than mine... I only assumed that it was dry because I saw no plugs in the line connections to keep any fluid in. So looking at it now after I got home, turns out there is about a finger of fluid sloshing around in the reservoir. My bad for spreading misinformation. :behindsofa:

So it is not bone dry, or dry at all... However, should I assume that air could get into the solenoid or accumulator from shipping, sloshing around, or does it not work like that??
 
TurboProp56 said:
Hmm, I was told it came from a late 2004, it has the same part number as my existing one, and looks the same. The research I did told me it should work just fine. What would be the issue for different years but same part number?
Click to expand...

Not sure what part number you are looking at, but the 03 to 05.5 use this part number: 47210-60110

Not sure about 05.5 and up, though.
 
TurboProp56 said:
Well this is a bit embarrassing... so when I got this thing in a couple weeks ago, i took it out of the box, said yep, all there and much better looking than mine... I only assumed that it was dry because I saw no plugs in the line connections to keep any fluid in. So looking at it now after I got home, turns out there is about a finger of fluid sloshing around in the reservoir. My bad for spreading misinformation. :behindsofa:

So it is not bone dry, or dry at all... However, should I assume that air could get into the solenoid or accumulator from shipping, sloshing around, or does it not work like that??
Click to expand...

I would assume that air is in the system. Why not obtain TIS cable+software and perform the bleed down procedure?
 
why did you have to replace it? what problem did you have before? what's your mileage now?

TurboProp56 said:
Hello, I apologize if my specific questions have been answered, but I am reading very mixed reviews on what exactly is necessary, and have not found an answer yet that I think really covers my situation.

I have a used MC that I will be installing in the coming weeks, it is the MC and booster assembly. It is bone dry right now. When I do the install, and go to bleed the system, what exactly do I need to do to take care that I don't ruin the MC and that I can be sure I get all and any air out of the MC and booster?

Do I absolutely need to use a special scan tool to service the MC?

Can I perform a traditional bleed job, no scan tool, and then drive it 30 miles to a dealer where they will have to scan it?

Does it need a scan tool at all??

it is a 2007 w/ABS. Thanks for the help, appreciate it!
Click to expand...
 
Accumulator is cycling on every 15 seconds or so. And it started to screech loudly last year. I'm tired of listening to it and assume the unit will eventually go out.

About 130,000 miles now

radlynx said:
why did you have to replace it? what problem did you have before? what's your mileage now?
Click to expand...
 
no.

If you are referring to my original post, the "it is a 2007 w/ABS"? That was in reference to MY 4Runner. The part I bought, I was told, came from a late 2004. I'm not very concerned about the suggested 2004 year as the part number on the replacement MC matches the part number stamped to the side of my existing squealing MC...

The part numbers match, I don't know what else to look for. Let me know if you are seeing something I'm missing.

dkyleb said:
You do realize you have the wrong part for your truck, right?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
TurboProp56 said:
no.

If you are referring to my original post, the "it is a 2007 w/ABS"? That was in reference to MY 4Runner. The part I bought, I was told, came from a late 2004. I'm not very concerned about the suggested 2004 year as the part number on the replacement MC matches the part number stamped to the side of my existing squealing MC...

The part numbers match, I don't know what else to look for. Let me know if you are seeing something I'm missing.
Click to expand...

Ahh okay, that makes more sense!

So, you gonna install this thing or what? :P
 
The Techstream and cable setup is proving to be a PITA, no joy so far. Tried three different sets of directions after each failure to link to the vehicle. Will keep trying again tomorrow... before I just :gun5: and bleed the old way.

(V12 with obdii cable using win 8 64 bit...)
 
Finally got this to work on a 32 bit win 7 system. wow.

Anyone used Techstream version 12, with the Mini-VSC obdii cable with the 1.4... firmware to bleed the master cylinder? I either don't have the correct firmware in the cable and can't see that option, or i just can't find it. I have limited menu choices.
 
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