New Motor Came

Op, as a few have already asked, can you shoot some photos and track your experiences/thoughts/problem areas/any tricks you learn along the way installing this? I plan on keeping my 4runner for life and at some point I think Ill be doing this as well. Youre advice would be really beneficial to many of us. Also, did the company rebuild with Toyota parts?
 
updates?

Did you pull out your engine?post some pics.How did you access the torque converter bolts?:embarassed:
 
Weird, I thought I posted an update on here a few days ago. Oh well, anyway I did pull the old motor and it was fairly straight forward. If you can turn motor over by hand ( I couldn't, mine was seized) you can get to the flywheel bolts which will free you motor from your trans. Pull the inspection plate and they're right there, 10mm if I remember right. Since mine was seized I had to bring the torque converter out with the motor and unfortunately lost a lot of trans fluid etc. and also had to pull my fan off the front of the motor to make room for the torque converter to clear.

To answer the other question, yes, the motor is mainly Toyota parts with a few exceptions from my understanding. Everything seems to fit stock and look stock.

A few problems I've ran into so far:

1. The water bypass pipe has an o-ring. The dealership can't find the part and says it doesn't exist. I've been in 3 times and they can't find it. I used my old gasket and also a TON of RTV to hopefully not have it leak. If it does leak I guess I'll be pulling the manifold again.

2. Broken bolt in the manifold. Not sure why but it happened. Was using my torque wrench but for whatever reason the one bolt snapped.

3. Broken clips for knock sensor sub-harness. They get very brittle because of how hot it gets right on top of the block and under the intake. Not a huge deal, a new one from the dealership is $25.

So far that's really about it. Smooth sailing but it hasn't gone in and been started yet.

Here's a few pictures:

Knock sensor harness


Fresh Radiator


Pretty much assembled


Coil packs and TB on


Broken Bolt in there


Oil Cooler on


Hope I can get it in tomorrow night. Trying to get a few extra hands to help me ease it in.
 
Extremely jealous (or as the hipsters would say "jelly"). Wish I could do this, just to have a fresh, new, non-leaky motor. Looks like alotta fun!
 
looks great. I didn't see anyone comment on the trans oil capacities. I want to say its around 10-12 qts to fill it up. On my 02 4wd, a drain and refill took 4.5qt if i remember correctly. there is at least that much more in the torque converter.

Good luck on the rest of your install.
 
Alright, took a night off from working on the 4Runner Thursday and took the hound fishing



Last night hit it pretty hard and have it almost in. Would have gotten it all the way in but the lady friend had made dinner reservations...:repuke:

Anyway. Started with getting the flexplate bolted back up. Make sure you have two people so one person can put a 19mm socket on your crank pulley and you can torque your flexplate bolts to 61 ftlbs. I used black RTV on my bolts to make sure they don't leak because the bolts go directly into the crankcase.





Before putting your torque converter back in make sure you put some fluid in. I put a little over a quart but probably could have put in 3 or 4. It takes forever and really only has to have enough to keep it lubed up on first start up. It'll get pumped full of fluid in no time. I ultimately got tired of waiting for it and this is how I felt



Here she is about to get lifted up and mostly dropped in. Note that I'm using a strap to extend my lifting chain. DON'T DO THIS! I couldn't find anymore chain and in hindsight REALLY shouldn't have done this. Pretty sketchy and really not worth it. With that being said it worked out for me yesterday but I wasn't comfortable.



And almost all the way in. Watch for wires, the fuel lines that run along the fire wall, your accessories if you left them in and your transmissions bell housing. Right now I'm on both mounts but need to wiggle it back onto the transmissions pins and then toss a few bolts in it. Having your motor completely level on your lifting chains is huge. Even if it's a little off you have to do a ton more muscling to get it to sit correctly. As you can see, we muscled this one...

 
Big ol' update for you guys. So my motor has been in and ready to rock. Or so I thought. Once I went to start it up it wouldn't run hardly at all. Misfiring, smoking etc. I was pretty much fed up with it and had it towed to my favorite mechanic. Upon his inspection cylinders 2,4 and 6 have 0 compression. Waiting on the complete diagnosis, but needless to say I'm pretty disappointed and upset. Once it gets running after whatever it takes I'll post a video.
 
Big ol' update for you guys. So my motor has been in and ready to rock. Or so I thought. Once I went to start it up it wouldn't run hardly at all. Misfiring, smoking etc. I was pretty much fed up with it and had it towed to my favorite mechanic. Upon his inspection cylinders 2,4 and 6 have 0 compression. Waiting on the complete diagnosis, but needless to say I'm pretty disappointed and upset. Once it gets running after whatever it takes I'll post a video.

ZERO compression? Wtf? Did you call the engine builders?
 
Wth!

Big ol' update for you guys. So my motor has been in and ready to rock. Or so I thought. Once I went to start it up it wouldn't run hardly at all. Misfiring, smoking etc. I was pretty much fed up with it and had it towed to my favorite mechanic. Upon his inspection cylinders 2,4 and 6 have 0 compression. Waiting on the complete diagnosis, but needless to say I'm pretty disappointed and upset. Once it gets running after whatever it takes I'll post a video.

Are you kidding me?how did that happened?you better call them and let them know ASAP.Let me ask you this,did you pre lube the engine prior to firing up?Smoking is normal in the first 5-10 minutes of idling also depends how much smoke is coming out of the tailpipe.i hope it's not a bad valve job on there part from what you described.let us know on the findings,Goodluck to you man.
 
I calls the engine builder and he stood behind his product. Paid for labor up to $60 an hour, I couldn't have asked for anything more than that. It ended up being the exhaust cam on the passenger side wasn't installed properly therefore leaving valves open. It's running flawlessly now. No CEL's and I'm more than stoked to have my truck back!
 
I calls the engine builder and he stood behind his product. Paid for labor up to $60 an hour, I couldn't have asked for anything more than that. It ended up being the exhaust cam on the passenger side wasn't installed properly therefore leaving valves open. It's running flawlessly now. No CEL's and I'm more than stoked to have my truck back!

That's good to hear! I'm glad you have a good company that stands behind their company.
 

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