new rear main seal still leaks

golfline

New member
I just replaced the rear main seal on my 98 4runner 3.4l. Everthing went well. I flushed the seal to the retainer and reinstalled with rtv. The seal fit tight around the crank. After reassembly the thing is still leaking.:redbrick:it even seems worse. what do you guys think? bad seal or maybe grooved crank?
 
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I think I will sleeve the crank and new seal. Man, I hate to drop the tranny again. I bet I can do it in half the time, though.
 
unbelievable, the fel-pro seal i used the first time had an inch of mating surface missing. i put grease on the seal before i installed it.:wtf: this time i used a oem toyota seal and no leaks.:party: i will never use anthing else.
 
unbelievable, the fel-pro seal i used the first time had an inch of mating surface missing. i put grease on the seal before i installed it.:wtf: this time i used a oem toyota seal and no leaks.:party: i will never use anthing else.

I had the same **** happen to me with those POS gaskets, also the seal I used wasn't as tight as OEM around the crank either. The leaking was awful afterwards.

Swapped with Toyota parts, lesson learned.
 
It appears that, in addition to the driver's side valve cover gasket leaking, I now have a rear-main seal leaking. What is involved with changing out the rear-main seal? How long would should this take for a novice person? Any special tools needed for the job?

Thanks.
 
It appears that, in addition to the driver's side valve cover gasket leaking, I now have a rear-main seal leaking. What is involved with changing out the rear-main seal? How long would should this take for a novice person? Any special tools needed for the job?

Thanks.

For the RMS, you need to either remove the motor or drop the tranny.
 
you need an transmission jack. i rented one. i suggest a 20 in. extension and a wobble extension for your 1/2 in. rachet to get the top bolts off the tranny.you can download the factory service manual it helps. little tip. the FSM says to take off the sway bar and the exhaust. you don't have to. saves a lot of time. it took me 8 hrs the second time.
 
you need an transmission jack. i rented one. i suggest a 20 in. extension and a wobble extension for your 1/2 in. rachet to get the top bolts off the tranny.you can download the factory service manual it helps. little tip. the FSM says to take off the sway bar and the exhaust. you don't have to. saves a lot of time. it took me 8 hrs the second time.

How long did it take the first time?
 
Mine went after an engine rebuild. Guessing the bloke who did the rebuild used a non genuine seal.... Farking spewing.
Just chucked in a bottle of something that's meant to seal it, I'll let yas know how it goes
 
I will be doing mine soon, hopefully next thursday. I will document the entire process and make a write up, anyone know how to make it a sticky in the FAQ?
 
95 3.slow rear main

I had the same issue. I just replaced my 5 speed transmission along with an aisin clutch. I dropped the oil pan while I was under there and cleaned it up and RTV'd the whole thing. Put a felpro gasket on it from Oreilly's and now I"m leaking again. Its frustrating after having the whole transmission out and now I have to do it again, plus I"m going to have to drain the oil again also. So my worry is maybe its not the rear main seal but the oil pan. I beaded it pretty thick with the black stuff. Has anyone had any luck with the Readi Sleeve crank shaft repair sleeve? I'm thinking I might go that route.
 
when doing a job this big you just don't want to cheap out on the seal. Use Toyota parts if you love your truck and/or value your time :)
 

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