New to CV’s why so inexpensive?

Bleu62

New member
So I’m new to 4Runners but a long time TLC gear head. Since buying my 09 4Runner I’ve been going through everything I can to make this as reliable a vehicle I can. I am a new 4Runner convert 100%! My question is why and how can the cv axles be so much less than the birfield axles? Especially since there are two angled joints opposed to the one on birfield. I know that most birfield are heat treated and chromoly that adds to the price but why does the cheapest birfield cost almost 5 times more than a CV? granted ive never had to replace a birfield before but looking at 2 chunks of metal I would say the one with more bendy parts would be more expensive.
 
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I just typed in to google 4Runner cv axles. The only other company I saw, and have experience with is rcv performance, and they are 2k. Their quality is worth it. I hate to dive into $2000 axles but if it’s but $40 and $2k I’d rather do it once...
 
Highest price to performance ratio is buying used OEM CV joints on ebay or from a forum member with low-ish miles maybe even grease leaking a little already, and rebooting/regreasing yourself. This is pretty much what CVJ does themselves. In my experience, you really don't need RCV unless you're running the King of the Hammers or something. I've never broken a CV and nobody I've wheeled with has broken a CV that I have seen.

Don't try wheeling with the aftermarket/$40 CV's if you can avoid it, and I don't think you'll have issues with the OEM ones, CVJ or rebuilt yourself.
 
I've gone with the $80 to $100 aftermarket CVs before and had fitment issues with Napa, 40-50 mph vibration issues with an auto zone, decent luck with Carquest but also had fitment issues with them once. Last one I bought for my 5th gen (same CV as 4th gen), I picked up a Toyota reman from my local dealer and they fit perfectly, spin smooth as silk and so far are worth the $140 imho. Durability? Time will tell.....But I don't do a lot of Rock Crawling here in FLA.
 
I've gone with the $80 to $100 aftermarket CVs before and had fitment issues with Napa, 40-50 mph vibration issues with an auto zone, decent luck with Carquest but also had fitment issues with them once. Last one I bought for my 5th gen (same CV as 4th gen), I picked up a Toyota reman from my local dealer and they fit perfectly, spin smooth as silk and so far are worth the $140 imho. Durability? Time will tell.....But I don't do a lot of Rock Crawling here in FLA.

What dealer did you purchase from?
 
That’s some good info. As far as my vehicle I got a low mileage Urban Runner edition and I am going to de-XREAS it as soon as I can for a 3inch lift. Both of my front CV boots are torn up and have almost no grease and need to be replaced. Searching for a good replacement is what spawn the question of why these cv axles are so much less expensive than birfields. I will look at CVJ and OEM but if I ever need to replace them for any reason RCV has the best warranty hands down. Piece of mind may be worth a few extra dollars far from home.
 
That’s some good info. As far as my vehicle I got a low mileage Urban Runner edition and I am going to de-XREAS it as soon as I can for a 3inch lift. Both of my front CV boots are torn up and have almost no grease and need to be replaced. Searching for a good replacement is what spawn the question of why these cv axles are so much less expensive than birfields. I will look at CVJ and OEM but if I ever need to replace them for any reason RCV has the best warranty hands down. Piece of mind may be worth a few extra dollars far from home.
I think mostly it's a supply and demand thing as far as prices. Tons more vehicles out there with CVs and a lot of them cross match like the 4th and 5th gen T4R. I see your in Alaska? That in itself may be a good reason to have a good warranty. Good Luck and Happy Holidays!!
 
That’s some good info. As far as my vehicle I got a low mileage Urban Runner edition and I am going to de-XREAS it as soon as I can for a 3inch lift. Both of my front CV boots are torn up and have almost no grease and need to be replaced. Searching for a good replacement is what spawn the question of why these cv axles are so much less expensive than birfields. I will look at CVJ and OEM but if I ever need to replace them for any reason RCV has the best warranty hands down. Piece of mind may be worth a few extra dollars far from home.

Lotus makes some axles too, $625 each. Probably not quite as strong as the RCV axles though.

RCV is working on a gen II set of axles as we speak so it might be worth it to wait for those. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...-toyota-4runner-ifs-4600-build-thread-20.html

Though I think anything other than OEM cv's with a 35" and under tires is a waste of money.
 
Thanks for that link. I def liked the weak link comment about the axle being the easier fix rather than a super strong axle and breaking your diff. OEM it is for me.
 
unless you're spending tons of money on huge, beefy CVs, just buy OEM or remanufactured OEM. i learned from bad experiences while wheeling to NOT BUY shitty CVs from autozone or your local mechanic.
 
Haha yea that’s what im trying to avoid. I just was curious what the price disparity was about. There’s a reason my 30 year old Toyota is still going strong. OEM won’t fail you. Thanks for all the input!
 
Also worth mentioning.. If you put over built CV's in a stock front diff.. you move the weak point to the front diff. Id rather replace a CV on the trail then a deal with a broken front diff. OEM are plenty strong unless your doing something wrong or running extreme setups.
 
That’s some good info. As far as my vehicle I got a low mileage Urban Runner edition and I am going to de-XREAS it as soon as I can for a 3inch lift. Both of my front CV boots are torn up and have almost no grease and need to be replaced. Searching for a good replacement is what spawn the question of why these cv axles are so much less expensive than birfields. I will look at CVJ and OEM but if I ever need to replace them for any reason RCV has the best warranty hands down. Piece of mind may be worth a few extra dollars far from home.

Unless you're going to lock the front and start rock crawling, OEM is fine. I've had good luck buying used OEM axles on ebay with free shipping for 50 bucks and then rebooting them.

unless you're spending tons of money on huge, beefy CVs, just buy OEM or remanufactured OEM. i learned from bad experiences while wheeling to NOT BUY shitty CVs from autozone or your local mechanic.

I've got a set of AutoZone axles on the rig right now for temporary use and I tore a boot on the first trip out which was just a desert run to go shooting. They'll work fine to get you home but I agree with not running them for wheeling. I just rebooted 2 OEM axles that I need to swap in then I'll get the torn boot one replaced under the lifetime and keep them as trail spares.

Also worth mentioning.. If you put over built CV's in a stock front diff.. you move the weak point to the front diff. Id rather replace a CV on the trail then a deal with a broken front diff. OEM are plenty strong unless your doing something wrong or running extreme setups.

^ This. If you lock the front it does actually strengthen things up, but the spider gears basically become the next weak link. For the type of wheeling that the majority is doing OEM is fine and they'll never snap an axle in the dirt unless they're doing stupid shit. Crawling is a whole different ball game, but you aren't going to see many people risking body damage on the trails that are going to snap axles.
 
I’m planning on locking the rear w a pro locker and seeing how that goes. I’m sure that should be plenty fine for the TAT and similar trails. As I stated earlier IFS is new to me but seems simple enough.
 

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