New to us '97 4runner Limited, 250kmi. Eek, what a project

MonsterMaxx

New member
A little backstory
Wifey had a '15 F150, but the pmts were killing us so we sold it just before Christmas. Then she wrecked my F350 :( Not her fault, but still...
Synthetic.jpg

Not totaled, but rearended pretty bad. Geico (the other driver's ins co) is screwing us over and who knows how long it'll be before they have it jury rigged back together with cheap chinese parts. I'm going to put it back to stock and sell the wreckage. Maybe buy a new one, maybe just sell off the parts and be done with it. I loved that truck.

I'm driving my old '94 (details in sig)
20160511_145533Large.jpg

It's a 5spd and wifey can't drive stick.

So we bought her a project. A 1997 4runner w/ 250kmi on it for $4.2k out the door. Did a compression test in the lot and it's 175-185psi which I consider to be pretty good. Tires are good for 20-30kmi. Brakes are pretty well done. Shocks are gone. Motor is leaking from at least the valve covers. Body and frame are rust free clean SC/NC life. Paint is rough as are the seats. It's not a rat, but it's not clean either.
Amy4RunnerLarge.jpg

I'm going to try to turn it into a sweet ride like my '94 is. I built those tube bumpers on my '94 back in the late 90s and will do something similar on the 4runner. Had wifey all convinced on my stage 1 plan; and decided I need to add a winch since it's a one time deal - now or never.

Stage 1 plan is:
Sororan Steel 7.2 suspension kit
4crawler 1" body lift
EBC cross drilled and slotted rotors, Wagner pads and shoes, stock drums.
Fix the massive valve cover leaks that make me want to name it 'stinky'.
Custom F&R bumpers, Warn VR8-S winch and custom sliders.
Trans cooler and eliminate the radiator portion of trans cooling
All fluids flushed and replaced w/ synthetics

Stage 2 plan will be:
Paint job
replace misc window trim pieces
recover seats and re-pad the fronts
Wheels and tires - Nitto TG2 LT305/65R18 and IDK on wheels yet, but 9" wide w/ I'm guessing a -12 offset. Put the outside of the tire even w/ the fender flairs. Probably paint to match.

Stage 3 gets a rebuilt motor and trans valve body rework, maybe rebuild the trans entirely - TBD.

Stage 4 is a supercharger, headers & exhaust as well as stereo/nav

I'd like to get thru stage 2 this year and I think that's feasible. As long as it doesn't turn into a money pit.

All advice is welcome and input on my plan. Please help me avoid any pitfalls.
 
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Welcome. Looks good. Considering the look of your rides you shouldn't have a problem tackling repairs and upgrades.

Other than possible rear axles seals leaking in the future due to a clogged breather that sits on the rear axle and new OEM lower ball joints with new bolts, it looks as if you have addressed everything. I'd splurge for OEM shoes, nothing else I tried worked anywhere as close to OEM.

TB/Water pump as well if they haven't been touched in some time...
 
Timing cover has a little sticker on it that says it was done at 225,000, so I think I'm good for another 50k.

I think you may be right on the shoes/pads. I had my best luck out of the factory ones on the '94.

I've heard about the ball joints before. What am I looking for? I jacked the wheel off the ground and gave it a good shake, nothing was loose.
 
Timing cover has a little sticker on it that says it was done at 225,000, so I think I'm good for another 50k.

I think you may be right on the shoes/pads. I had my best luck out of the factory ones on the '94.

I've heard about the ball joints before. What am I looking for? I jacked the wheel off the ground and gave it a good shake, nothing was loose.

Nothing to look for really. If you dont have history on the lower ball joints being replaced, replace them with OEM's.

For brakes, research the Tundra Brake Upgrade. The stockers fade and get hot pretty fast.

Before doing any lift components I would do all the front steering and wear parts first with all OEM. Most people negative results after lift is they dont swap the worn parts like U/L ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, U/L control arm bushings, steering rack bushings and all sway bar bushings.
 
I like what you've done with the '94! I would order the LBJ's through Camelback Toyota. From my research, they had the lowest prices on them, which included free shipping.
 
You may rent to replace the radiator or add an external oil cooler. Search around for link milkshake.

I think you've got a good list.
 
Why the lower ball joints and not uppers? What's failing?

More milkshake? I thought the strawberry milkshake problem was it. :(

I'll replace the radiator when it needs it, we are already overbudget.

Tundra brakes...researching now...interesting. If'n I'm reading it right, price is about the same as hipo stock. Are there bigger rear brakes too? Disk?


Blech! Took the front skids off so I could powerwash more. Disgusting!
 
Looks like there's a 199mm rotor upgrade and a 231mm rotor upgrade. Where can I find the info on the bigger one?

What about rear brakes?
 
Why the lower ball joints and not uppers? What's failing?

More milkshake? I thought the strawberry milkshake problem was it. :(

I'll replace the radiator when it needs it, we are already overbudget.

Tundra brakes...researching now...interesting. If'n I'm reading it right, price is about the same as hipo stock. Are there bigger rear brakes too? Disk?


Blech! Took the front skids off so I could powerwash more. Disgusting!

"When it needs it" could be too late. The radiator was the first thing I replaced when I got mine. It was the original at 201k. I would highly suggest making this a priority otherwise you're gonna have a nice lifted 4runner with a bum tranny.

Just my two cents.

Cheers.
 
Why the lower ball joints and not uppers? What's failing?

More milkshake? I thought the strawberry milkshake problem was it. :(

I'll replace the radiator when it needs it, we are already overbudget.

Tundra brakes...researching now...interesting. If'n I'm reading it right, price is about the same as hipo stock. Are there bigger rear brakes too? Disk?


Blech! Took the front skids off so I could powerwash more. Disgusting!

The lower ball joints are a bad design and are constantly in tension which leads to catastrophic failure (wheel falls off). The upper ball joints don't have this problem. I've never seen or heard of an upper failing but there are plenty storys, pictures, and threads about lowers failing.

The strawberry milkshake is really the only problem this drivetrain has. The tranny oil gets cooled through a cooler that is integrated into the bottom of the radiator. Sometimes after 20 years the seals that keep the tranny fluid and the coolant isolated fail and mix the two. The water getting into your transmission can cause failure. Amazon has new OEM denso radiators for ~$100 or you can get a B&M transmission oil cooler and bypass the radiator (fwiw that's what I did, no possibility of a milkshake for me). The downside is with the 97 you can't monitor tranny temps with a scanguage or similar product. You could always add one, but I haven't and it hasn't been a problem in the 5 years I've had my cooler installed.

Here is a really good thread on the tundra brake upgrade (TBU)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ements-231mm-13wl-tundra-calipers-rotors.html
^This was originally a bad link. Sorry about that.


That is also a good upgrade.
 
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Sigh... That pic of your truck really make me miss my 1994. Mine was not nearly as nice but I miss it all the same.
 
Quick note on the Tundra brake upgrade....you'll need to look into either new wheels or wheel adapters, the split 3-spoke won't fit over them as-is. There are stock wheels that will fit, just not those.
 
Sigh... That pic of your truck really make me miss my 1994. Mine was not nearly as nice but I miss it all the same.

Hey! Toughen up there fruitcake! You're in a 4Runner, the best looking, toughest & most reliable SUV ever made! I've been driving mine in snow, sleet & freezing rain for 2 straight days now & she always gets me home! No past, current or future vehicle of mine will ever compare!

J/K , not really, The 94 is nice. :bigok:
 
Nothing to look for really. If you dont have history on the lower ball joints being replaced, replace them with OEM's.

For brakes, research the Tundra Brake Upgrade. The stockers fade and get hot pretty fast.

Before doing any lift components I would do all the front steering and wear parts first with all OEM. Most people negative results after lift is they dont swap the worn parts like U/L ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, U/L control arm bushings, steering rack bushings and all sway bar bushings.
I don't see any bushings for the steering rack, the rest is in my cart.
Genuine OEM STEERING GEAR & LINKAGE Parts for 1997 Toyota 4Runner Limited - Olathe Toyota Parts Center

Are there poly bushings (sometimes a set) which would give better results?
 
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I've always had good luck with Moog parts. Can I not just use them for the LCI and other places? Usually good stuff Moog is. Used to be anyway back when I was 'wheelin my jeep every weekend.
 

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