New UCA's and fresh alignment and one wheel rubs?

[TeeDub21]

2.5" lift in front, TRD PRO wheels with 1" spacers and BFG KO2 265/70/17's. Was on stock UCA's and had some rub on the front bumper but none on the rear. Installed JBA UCA's, had it aligned today and now the passenger side rubs on the mudflap at full lock? The alignment is spot on, 4 deg caster both sides and .20 overall toe, .1 on each side. Drives great.

I figured 4 degrees caster would put the wheels further forward not rearward. Have FN 8.5" wheels with -6 offset on the way and was going to do 285's. Now I'm concerned I'll have body mount rubbing.

Is this situation typical? I know all trucks are different but seriously figured the time and money spent on the UCA's would help me fit the larger tires.

 

[RedSled]

2.5" lift in front, TRD PRO wheels with 1" spacers and BFG KO2 265/70/17's. Was on stock UCA's and had some rub on the front bumper but none on the rear. Installed JBA UCA's, had it aligned today and now the passenger side rubs on the mudflap at full lock? The alignment is spot on, 4 deg caster both sides and .20 overall toe, .1 on each side. Drives great.

I figured 4 degrees caster would put the wheels further forward not rearward. Have FN 8.5" wheels with -6 offset on the way and was going to do 285's. Now I'm concerned I'll have body mount rubbing.

Is this situation typical? I know all trucks are different but seriously figured the time and money spent on the UCA's would help me fit the larger tires.

I just went through the same thing, i have 265/70/17 Grabber A/T 2s, put on the Built Right UCAs and had to remove the mud flaps. I was also getting ready for 285/70/17 Wildpeak M/Ts, looks like body mount chop.

 

[cmilviper]

2.5" lift in front, TRD PRO wheels with 1" spacers and BFG KO2 265/70/17's. Was on stock UCA's and had some rub on the front bumper but none on the rear. Installed JBA UCA's, had it aligned today and now the passenger side rubs on the mudflap at full lock? The alignment is spot on, 4 deg caster both sides and .20 overall toe, .1 on each side. Drives great.

I figured 4 degrees caster would put the wheels further forward not rearward. Have FN 8.5" wheels with -6 offset on the way and was going to do 285's. Now I'm concerned I'll have body mount rubbing.

Is this situation typical? I know all trucks are different but seriously figured the time and money spent on the UCA's would help me fit the larger tires.

Just remove the mudflaps, and get the BMC done (as I have done on both of mine), which is not a big deal if done right..........or remove the wheel spacers, & that will help a ton with the rubbing...

 

[TeeDub21]

Just remove the mudflaps, and get the BMC done (as I have done on both of mine), which is not a big deal if done right..........or remove the wheel spacers, & that will help a ton with the rubbing...

I will remove the spacers when I get my FN wheels but they will still be slightly more aggressive than my current set up with the spacers. How much space do you gain by melting or removing the flaps?

 

[cmilviper]

I will remove the spacers when I get my FN wheels but they will still be slightly more aggressive than my current set up with the spacers. How much space do you gain by melting or removing the flaps?

Gotcha....You'll gain maybe about an inch, as the body mount is right behind that part of the mudflap.

 

[83Mule]

I have 9x17 wheels with 275's and the 1.25 spacer and I did the BMC with a sawzall in 20 minutes then carved out the center of the flaps while retaining the mounting points and full protection they give the sides of the truck. You don't need to box the Body mount, it is high strength steel and the gussets are still in place to support the mount even after the ''Wheel intrusion'' section is removed. You CAN have your cake and eat it too! A good alignment shop can rotate your lower control arms for less rub at the back as well.

 

[TeeDub21]

I have 9x17 wheels with 275's and the 1.25 spacer and I did the BMC with a sawzall in 20 minutes then carved out the center of the flaps while retaining the mounting points and full protection they give the sides of the truck. You don't need to box the Body mount, it is high strength steel and the gussets are still in place to support the mount even after the ''Wheel intrusion'' section is removed. You CAN have your cake and eat it too! A good alignment shop can rotate your lower control arms for less rub at the back as well.

Well I figured the added caster was what kept the wheels more forward. BMC doesn’t look too tough but I figured you had to box them in to retain strength.