Next step - Suspension - need a few fill-in Qs

[PCH4R]

I've settled into the my '15 4Runner TEP with about 10k miles now. So far, just a few items, namely the bud built bumpout sliders.

I've debated between 275/70s with my stock kdss suspension, 285/70s with upgraded susp, and 285/75s with all the cutting needed. I've learned that the suspension sets the foundation for all further mods the hard way on previous vehicle ;-)

My plan is to move to 33s in 285/70s, and after a few years, determine if I want to body cut / regear for the 34s.

Here is my current build list:
- BFG TA KO2 285/70/R17 on stock 7.5 wheels (set of 5)
- Radflo 2.5" Front Coilovers
- Radflo 2" Rear Shocks
- Radflo 2" Rear Springs (600 lbs)
- Total Chaos UCAs
- MetalTech Rear lower links
- Alignment

These are my assumptions/questions:
- Push out front plastic fenders
- Ensure kdss is not bled/mis-calibrated (worrisome!)
- Remote Res shocks not necessary
- Rear Upper links not needed
- Regear is not needed???
- Wheels Spacers are not needed???
- Spare will fit in current storage location???

I want to do the suspension "once" and be able to build on top of it a with front bumper with winch (aluminum if possible), rear swing-out bumper (aluminum if possible), bud built skid plates (also aluminum). I may also add a rack on top, but its not a priority compared to fitting in a garage/underground parking. I do not plan to add those components this year.

I hope that the 600lb springs do not ride overly hard with the stock/zero weight additions, nor look like a rollerskate/stink bug with 33s. Also concerned that the 33s will force a mild regear to 4.10s or similar.

 

[wfo9]

Your assumptions are all pretty much correct.

The only problem area is the heavy springs. Without the weight of the bumpers... it will be awkward. Hard to just do it once and not put the weight on at the same time.

Spring swaps are really not a big deal. You might be able to make one set of springs work in front with adjustable COs, but the rear is going to suck without the weight you plan to add.

33s are livable with stock gears, but it gets worse as you add weight (armor, rack.....) bumpers would make it a slug. I think you will be fine until you add bumpers and even then it is tolerable, just not ideal.

 

[Randyman...]

Your assumptions are all pretty much correct.

The only problem area is the heavy springs. Without the weight of the bumpers... it will be awkward. Hard to just do it once and not put the weight on at the same time.

Spring swaps are really not a big deal. You might be able to make one set of springs work in front with adjustable COs, but the rear is going to suck without the weight you plan to add.

33s are livable with stock gears, but it gets worse as you add weight (armor, rack.....) bumpers would make it a slug. I think you will be fine until you add bumpers and even then it is tolerable, just not ideal.

I'm looking at this advice from a totally different angle (related to my intense Audio obsession! :wtf.

As mentioned - with ANY type of large multi-faceted project - it's generally best to have everything you need on-hand and ready-to-go up front.

I spent dozens of years hodge-podgeing everything in my life. I was finally at a place where I was disciplined enough and had enough room to budget for my precise needs - and a brand new T4R was mine along with a pre-purchased $10K audio system that was basically ready-to-install when I received my T4R.

All of my audio systems had been pieced together and "half assed" up till that point (continual improvements with continual investments!).

With my current audio system that I basically buttoned-up from the beginning (made a few power amp revisions a few months later) - I haven't spent a dime in years. Same basic realizations with my pro-audio/recording obsession (which dwarfs my T4R and its Audio investment by 3X!).

So while coming from a totally different planet (my T4R's offroad needs are tame by comparison), I'd say save up and do it all in one go. You will have the end-result of your dreams, and won't need to be continually investing in incremental upgrades as you go. Plug and Play per se.

A few adjustments will be needed as you go, but having the majority of any major project "present and accounted for" at the get-go will result in a superior experience IMNSHO...

 

[cjacob316]

[MENTION=95329]txbonds[/MENTION] installed the radflow suspension and then the CBI rear bumper with tire swing this year and is already looking for new rear springs. They don't handle the weight too well. I personally went with spacers until I get a rear bumper so that I don't have to buy springs twice or ride too long on heavy duty springs.

Also if you're looking for aluminum skids check out RCI.

 

[txbonds]

[MENTION=95329]txbonds[/MENTION] installed the radflow suspension and then the CBI rear bumper with tire swing this year and is already looking for new rear springs. They don't handle the weight too well. I personally went with spacers until I get a rear bumper so that I don't have to buy springs twice or ride too long on heavy duty springs.

Also if you're looking for aluminum skids check out RCI.

The radflo setup is great but the rear springs are just not made to carry so much extra weight. Mine ride and sit fine without the tireswing and with the spare in the factory spot but once you stick the 105 lb swing with can carrier on there and then counter lever that 82lb spare off it, it's just too much. I lost an inch of lift but as soon as I pulled the tireswing off the lift returned.

 

[cjacob316]

The raffle setup is great but the rear springs are just not made to carry so much extra weight. Mine ride and sit fine without the tireswing and with the spare in the factory spot but once you stick the 105 lb swing with can carrier on there and then counter lever that 82lb spare off it, it's just too much. I lost an inch of lift but as soon as I pulled the tireswing off the lift returned.

How heavy is the bumper all together if the swing is 105lbs itself?

 

[PCH4R]

The raffle setup is great but the rear springs are just not made to carry so much extra weight. Mine ride and sit fine without the tireswing and with the spare in the factory spot but once you stick the 105 lb swing with can carrier on there and then counter lever that 82lb spare off it, it's just too much. I lost an inch of lift but as soon as I pulled the tireswing off the lift returned.

Thanks for all the feedback. I had talked with radflo, also in socal, and they recommended the 2" 600lbs springs. I believe they carry 2" and 2.5" in 600, 650, and 700lbs.

Inferring from [MENTION=95329]txbonds[/MENTION], it sounds like the 600lbs were "good" for non-bumper armor, which is my plan for the next year. Upgrading the springs to a 650 or 2.5 would be a much better route than starting off to begin with.

Any other thoughts on the setup?

For those in socal, any recommended shops I can talk with? I don't like the idea of mucking with the kdss lines/bleeding!

 

[TravelWest01]

In SoCal you can work with Yotamasters, located in Corona. They are reputable and much less expensive than 4 wheel parts.

 

[FrontRange4Runner]

a brand new T4R was mine along with a pre-purchased $10K audio system that was basically ready-to-install when I received my T4R.

:jaw: lol I have a guitar problem so I feel your pain. People look at me like I'm crazy when I spend big bucks on things I want, but the truth is that I don't actually buy things for my self much (save beer), and when I do I get the good stuff. Countless hours of research and thinking through a purchase have never let me down. I don't care if it's a $40 pencil or a $40k 4Runner, buying what you actually want, and spending the money one time on quality items makes you feel good. There is no worse feeling than re-buying something that you just spent money on, simply because you cheeped out the first time.

 

[txbonds]

How heavy is the bumper all together if the swing is 105lbs itself?

Swing with dual can carrier weighed in at 105 and I'm guessing the bumper adds about 125 net after you take 20 or so lbs of factory stuff off.

 

[txbonds]

Talking to Steve at Sonoran my 2.5 radflo has 650s on the front and the rear is. 2" lift spring with a 220 rate which is supposed to give 20% more load capacity over stock. With just the CBI bumper (without tire swing) and an oversized tire in stock location or in cargo area, it rides great and sits perfect regarding the lift.

However, if you add tire swing, counter lever the larger tire and a couple of jerry cans on it, a roof rack, and a gas tank skid it's just too much. You are talking about 400 lbs or more of extra weight over stock without personal items or trailer tongue at that point.

I will be trying the ARB heavy springs with some air bags for when I add the trailer. I just hope it rides as nice with the weight as the radflo does at the moment.

Thanks for all the feedback. I had talked with radflo, also in socal, and they recommended the 2" 600lbs springs. I believe they carry 2" and 2.5" in 600, 650, and 700lbs.

Inferring from [MENTION=95329]txbonds[/MENTION], it sounds like the 600lbs were "good" for non-bumper armor, which is my plan for the next year. Upgrading the springs to a 650 or 2.5 would be a much better route than starting off to begin with.

Any other thoughts on the setup?

For those in socal, any recommended shops I can talk with? I don't like the idea of mucking with the kdss lines/bleeding!

 

[PCH4R]

Thanks all.

I have amended my plans slightly to get a Load C tire vs the Load E.

Now I need to decide which brand!

 

[PCH4R]

more research / adjustments

Bit of an update to my plans based on feedback and a bit more research:

Here is my current build list:
- ??? 285/70/R17 on stock 7.5 wheels (set of 5) Load C or D
- Radflo 2.5" Front Coilovers (600lb)
- Radflo 2.5" Rear Shocks
- Radflo 2" Rear Springs
- Total Chaos UCAs
- Alignment

I have some mixed research on spacer needs. It sounds like it depends on the tire and alignment.

I do not know which tire to pick now. the BFG KO2s only come in a Load E in that size and I'd like something lighter if possible.

I'm going to wait on lower links/trac bar as well.

A new question occurred during my research, do I need rear bump stop extensions or replacements?

Thanks all.