NO CEL: Repeatable misfire/loss of power. With video for her pleasure!

Well if changing the spark plugs, ie messing with the ignition system changed something, I would be very suspicious of it. What about the wires - any resistance through them/broken connectors? Try swapping packs?
 
Well, at a bar drinking away my misery after a failed attempt at tracking down the issue.

Installed Joe's parts, no change. Put mine back in and it hardly runs. No power, nearly constant misfires. CEL finally flashed but my scan tool sees no codes.

Caesar- no the IAC has never been touched. MAF was swapped yesterday to no avail.
 
After the 15 mile drive to my exit it finally popped a code: p0304. Cleared it, and continued the 2 miles home.

As I entered the code to my gate I got another CEL: p0300 and p0304 this time.

Going to do a leak down test tomorrow. After reading a few cracked head threads I am preparing for the worst. Of course this happens just a couple weeks after selling my daily driver...

A point I neglected to share earlier: I do have some white smoke on cold starts (i.e. First start in the morning) and have been losing a bit of coolant. I chalked the up to a seeping water pump as my timing belt and water pump are due.


So what do you guys think? If it's cracked or whatever should I fix the heads or replace the engine? I have a friend that will help with (do) whatever work is necessary aside from any machining for a very reasonable cost. However, once I account for parts (heads, timing belt, etc) I'll likely be nearing the cost of a used engine or hell, even a wrecked 4Runner.
 
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Ever overheated? You said you bought a kit to test for gasses in the coolant correct and there were none?

If you are losing coolant, and it isn't coming out of the weep hole, expect the HG, or at least I would. The white smoke isn't what you want to see.
 
Ever overheated? You said you bought a kit to test for gasses in the coolant correct and there were none?

If you are losing coolant, and it isn't coming out of the weep hole, expect the HG, or at least I would. The white smoke isn't what you want to see.

Never overheated and yes, I got one of those kits that you put the liquid in, place it on the radiator, then squeeze the ball to suck the air through it. I've used it a handful of times and never had the fluid change color.

What's this weep hole you speak of...?
 
Its on top of the water pump. Barely visible. How old is the water pump currently?

I can't think offhand why there would be white smoke present other than coolant being present in the cylinder. Rent a coolant tester and see if the pressure holds steady for at least 15 minutes.

As Brian said, perform a leak down test and see what that yields as well.
 
Donkey dicks... This sucks man. I'd say look for a used motor to get you buy and rebuild this one and put back in it. You can freshen everything up and be good to go with a motor that's got internals mentioned for SCing

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Tough call. Low mileage JDM or new heads. Puts it back on the road quicker. Rebuild if you have the right guy to do the job. Since you have an Sc, spend the extra coin for chro-mo pistons, rods, and wrist pins from LCE. The plus side of a rebuild is you can take your time and do it right IF you find yourself an inexpensive DD. Tough decision now with a new Lexus for your wife and no DD.

Let's hope it's something else.
 
So Alex, if you do end up having to do an engine swap, this guy in Gresham is friends with my mechanic that just did the T/B on my sons Acura and also did my first T/B on my rig many years ago before I started doing it myself. Quality guy, knows his stuff but you're looking at towing it down here.

I'm not sure what's available in the Seattle area.

He advertises on here all the time. Here's a link to his CL ad - 5VZ 5VZ-FE 5VZFE Toyota 4Runner Tacoma T100 Tundra 3.4 JDM Used Engine
 
Any luck man?

I am curious myself, any updates?

Tough call. Low mileage JDM or new heads. Puts it back on the road quicker. Rebuild if you have the right guy to do the job. Since you have an Sc, spend the extra coin for chro-mo pistons, rods, and wrist pins from LCE. The plus side of a rebuild is you can take your time and do it right IF you find yourself an inexpensive DD. Tough decision now with a new Lexus for your wife and no DD.

Let's hope it's something else.

I'm curious as well. I've heard of S/C trucks cracking pistons on the 3.4L. Never seen it.

So Alex, if you do end up having to do an engine swap, this guy in Gresham is friends with my mechanic that just did the T/B on my sons Acura and also did my first T/B on my rig many years ago before I started doing it myself. Quality guy, knows his stuff but you're looking at towing it down here.

I'm not sure what's available in the Seattle area.

He advertises on here all the time. Here's a link to his CL ad - 5VZ 5VZ-FE 5VZFE Toyota 4Runner Tacoma T100 Tundra 3.4 JDM Used Engine

Well, the worst has more or less been confirmed. I bought a coolant pressure tester and a leak down tester on Amazon after none of my local parts stores wanted to rent one out.

Initial coolant test wasn't TERRIBLE. I lost something like 5 psi over and hour or so. Mechanic buddy told me to leave it on overnight so that, "if it's a small leak, it'll show." I did so, and when I checked it the next day I was at 0psi. I took the tester off of the radiator and noticed my coolant was VERY low. I could not see any in there.

Pulled all the plugs and the cylinder 4 spark plug was clearly moist. Took a look down inside and it looked moist inside as well, so I decided to start my leakdown on that cylinder.

I attached the leakdown tester's hose to the cylinder and aimed it at my face so I could hear/feel when the engine hit top dead center on that cylinder. Turned the crank a few times by hand, and the cylinder gurgled. I thought, "I shouldn't turn it anymore" but did anyway, against my better judgement. With the next turn of the crank I received a shot of coolant straight to the face.



My voice sounds a little funny. Getting over a cold of sorts.

As for my plan... I have a buddy down in California that shared with me where the shop he works at (shout out Joe @ Toyworx) gets their heads, and he highly recommended them. I've decided to just replace both for peace of mind. He also put together a shopping list for me of all the gaskets, nuts, and studs I'll need for the job. I plan to get all of them through Camelback Toyota.

I figure that it'd be wise to pull the heads and have them checked before throwing the money at new ones. It could just be a head gasket.

While in there, I will also be doing the timing belt and water pump as they are both due.
 
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I am sorry to hear that. You shouldn't lose any psi over an hour.

I'd be willing to bet your head may be cracked in the same spot that this one is. Check out the full tear down of the 5vz and where the crack occurred on the head, it is pretty thorough:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFYEoWTX0YU

The only CEL I have ever had on my 4runner is on Cyl 4; I burned a hole in the Denso spark plug wire earlier this year for a misfire.
 
Sorry to hear that Alex. I guess a DD is in order first. At least you've been around long enough to know what your options are. You've got a great rig. It'll be up and running again in no time.
 
Sorry to hear that Alex. I guess a DD is in order first. At least you've been around long enough to know what your options are. You've got a great rig. It'll be up and running again in no time.

Totally agree. Your rig is awesome and you have the knowledge to fix it!
 
Sorry to hear that. If it never over heated you should be fine with new heads.
If you haven't heard LCE is now making boost ready 5VZ's along with their already race proven 3RZ's. Good Luck Alex!
 

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