No crank!!!!!

[Griff13B]

I am trying to solve some issues on my new 4Runner, and at 334,000 she's begging to show a few. She's a 1992 3vze 5 speed SR5.

The starter would work very inconsistently - meaning that maybe out of 10 times turning the ignition to start one of them would be successful. Now, the starter will not turn at all when keyed.

The starter relay in the engine fuse box does click, so I assume power is reaching the relay. The radio and clock turn off when I turn the ignition to start. The charge gauge on the dash seems to be showing sufficient voltage, but I haven't checked anything with a DVOM.

I was thinking it was bad starter contacts but the the starter always turns over fine if I jump a wire from the + terminal of the battery to the starter.

Can anyone suggest other things to look at/test?

Thanks!!

 

[TOYO74]

Are the battery terminals clean and cable clamps tight?
Is your battery voltage good?

If these check out, check your starter solenoid by having someone try to crank engine while you tap on solenoid with a small hammer or screwdriver handle.

Good luck.

Thought of this later: is your ignition switch the original? If other things check OK , use your DVOM meter to check your ignition switch. At 300K + miles there is a lot of wear on the switch.

 

[Griswald]

Seems like the starter works, the battery has enough charge...
Not sure about a 2nd gen, but based on what you're saying seems like it could be something similar to this:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/119611-final-fix-intermittent-no-crank-22re.html

So if it starts when you jump a wire from the starter to the batt, then it sounds like your solenoid is just not getting enough juice to initiate the crank... Same thing if you jump it w a friends's vehicle, etc. You'll read I (like a lot of us) had this issue.

Ask RAD 4RUNNER if he can find the relay schematic for a 92'
Do you have a volt-meter?

Again I'm kind of guessing here b/c I am not familiar w 2nd gens, but I would look at that first before you even consider replacing parts.

 

[TheEngineer]

I have had the same problem. Years ago, I installed a disconnect switch, the kind that attaches to the neg battery post and has a green plastic knob. Found the contact surfaces in the switch were not quite parallel and there was corrosion. Once I filed them parallel I have never had any more problems. The fact that your lights go out indicates that your voltage drops significantly when you are trying to start. Your battery may be just fine, but if you have a poor connection there is so much voltage drop in that defective connection that you do not get enough power to the starter.

 

[iDRIVEslw]

Maybe your starter?

 

[Griff13B]

Thanks for the replies.

I Just replaced the clutch pedal bracket today and the starting issue has disappeared.

One thing that I noticed was that the the neutral safety switch was only being pushed in half way the way it was adjusted. When I replaced the clutch pedal bracket I adjusted the neutral safety switch so that when the pedal was pressed to the floor the switch would be entirely pushed in.

I am not sure if the issue was due to the neutral safety switch this whole time. Would the starter relay still click if the neural safety switch is not pressed?