no start after timing belt job, cel p01340...

G

goohead

New member
no start after timing belt job, cel p01340...


so just finished doing a 90k service on my v8 4runner 06, but after the truck wont turn over, I gotten a p01340 cel light on.

I know i triple checked all timing marks before dis-assembly and re-install and took some pics as well.

when removing the left timing cover (left as in driver side) I did remove the cam position sensor off the heads instead of just unclipping it, but reinstalled exactly as taken off. I read the FSM and there was not special instructions on postion of the cam sensor when putting it back on the head... just retighten the 2 bolts.

here are some pics of the timing belt and marks before I removed everything.

and I had an OEM timing belt with the L, R and crank timing marks, I made sure these 3 marks aligned with the marks on the cams and crank, even when I put back the harmonic balancer the timing marks there was right where it should it, and nothing moved.

Any ideas? Could the cam senor be installed wrong? I dont see how,
I did see a TSB here fore the cam sensor
http://www.toyotapart.com/M.I.L._ON...INTERMITTENT_HOT_SOAK_NO-START_T-EG052-06.pdf


pics of everything

before removal:






when putting on new timing belt my marks looked exactly like this video
please fast forward to 4:55

Timing Belt Replacement 2006 Toyota Tundra 4.7L 2UZ-FE V8 - YouTube
 
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yes I set it ad 0 degrees but then it asks you to advance the timing to the pin mark on the harmonic balancer, and the cams should move to the "T" mark on each side
 
very complicated
I don't get the reason for the white arrows on the belt that are supposed to be pointed to the front of the car. Seems none of that should matter if the 3 marks on the belt pulleys are where they should be. (2nd link in my post above)

maybe it is because with the belt on, you cannot see the real timing marks ?
 
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Align all marks at the crank. Gear mark to case and belt mark to dot on the gear. I used some plastic clamps to hold the belt to the gear. Rotate the left/driverside cam from the line to the T to put some slack on that side of the system. Install the belt around the idler pulley and onto the left cam. Rotate the cam from the T back to the line to take up the slack. Rotate the right/passenger side cam from the line to the T. This puts slack between the two cams. Continue feeding the belt around the pump to the right cam. Rotate the cam back from the T to the line taking up the slack between the two cams. Now all the slack is between the crank and the right cam. Now all marks should be aligned at the crank and the cam notches to the lines on the heads. I didn’t read this in any of the instructions I read, but its what I did to make slipping the belt on the right cam gear easier. I left the tensioner pulley bolts a few threads loose and the belt easily slipped on. No beating your hands up prying the belt onto the cam gear. I tightened up the tensioner bolts, checked that all marks were lined up and finally pulled the tensioner pin. Rotated the crank two revolutions verified all marks were perfect and been driving it since.

Remember to take care moving the cams. Hold on tight. There can be compression that could make your cam spin further than you want

I just noticed you used the dot in the timing plate for the crank gear alignment. You want it set on the zero before removing the crank pulley.

Kind of hard to see but this is how I had mine set up before removing the belt. I used a marker to put marks on my old belt prior to removing. I put my new belt on backwards the first time and couldn't figure out why things weren't lining up. Ends up by counting the teeth on the old verses the new it's one tooth off if you do this. Left and right are determined from the drivers seat not standing in front of the engine. I read that in the write up, but a quick check holding belts up to each other had me making a mistake and thinking my belt was different than the one the person was using in hte write up I was using. If you get a belt with arrows as I did they point forward not to the cam gear notches.

I did see a write up where it suggested using the hole as the crank mark and another that suggested close is good enough. I don't agree.





 
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So just to clarify both timing marks on the cams should point to "I" mark line at the top of each head, and the crank notch should align with the dot on the front of the crank seal plate. Wouldn't this put the harmonic balancer at the white dot mark on the lower timing cover and not at the "0" position?
 
also I'm confused about why in both videos it shows advancing the timing to the 50 degree neutral mark and the timing marks on the cams at the "T" indicator instead of the "I" one, they never move the cams back to the "I" mark later before putting on the new belt, I know from your pics you do not have vvti cams could this be different from the non vvti motors? I guess I'm just confused because I followed the direction in videos..
 
goohead said:
also I'm confused about why in both videos it shows advancing the timing to the 50 degree neutral mark and the timing marks on the cams at the "T" indicator instead of the "I" one, they never move the cams back to the "I" mark later before putting on the new belt, I know from your pics you do not have vvti cams could this be different from the non vvti motors? I guess I'm just confused because I followed the direction in videos..
Click to expand...

No the thing with the VVTi actuators is because supposedly they become "springy" with the oil still in the units, so you force the oil out of the actuators by turning them back a certain amount to get them to a neutral position where they won't make the timing wonky.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/130732-2uz-fe-r-r-t-belt-water-pump.html
This was the thread I had referred to in the T120 Post (sorry I updated it there as well.)
I also included a .pdf lin from the FSM in the first post of that thread.)
http://im.toyota-4runner.org/attach...t-belt-water-pump-2uz-fe-vvti-timing-belt.pdf

goohead said:
So just to clarify both timing marks on the cams should point to "I" mark line at the top of each head, and the crank notch should align with the dot on the front of the crank seal plate. Wouldn't this put the harmonic balancer at the white dot mark on the lower timing cover and not at the "0" position?
Click to expand...

Toyota wants you to use the "I" marks as the timing marks for INSTALLATION, for checking you would use the "T" marks; I never completely understood their reasoning behind this, perhaps it was because putting the camshafts at "I" is a bit easier (less chance of the cam rotating by itself?).

Atlanta_man said:
very complicated
I don't get the reason for the white arrows on the belt that are supposed to be pointed to the front of the car. Seems none of that should matter if the 3 marks on the belt pulleys are where they should be. (2nd link in my post above)

maybe it is because with the belt on, you cannot see the real timing marks ?

One link said that the crankshaft could be a cycle off, with all timing marks all correctly set, and of course it will not start like that. Probably lock up, smash valves, or not turn over at all
Click to expand...

As for the belts I never figured out why our Factory belts have arrows on them, but I do know that if you install them facing the wrong way it does actually translate into the timing marks not lining up (the engine theoretically would still be in time, but you would not be able to verify since the marks on the belt would be out of sync and when turning the engine over it would look awkward.)
 
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I'm not sure if their is a difference between mine and your VVT or not. When my harmonic balancer was aligned to 0 the belts were on the "l" line. When I pulled the balancer off the notch on the crank gear was aligned to the dot on the front of the engine.
 
See that's whats confusing me, in your pics it shows timing marks on the cams at the "I" position and crank at "0" mark and you said when you take off the balancer the notch on the crank aligns with the dot on the oil pump.

Now I look at blackworksinc pics from his thread, both can timing marks are at the "I" position BUT his crank is not at the "0" mark but instead points to the white mark @ 50c, then when he took off his balancer it still has the notch pointed to the dot on the oil pump body
 
goohead said:
See that's whats confusing me, in your pics it shows timing marks on the cams at the "I" position and crank at "0" mark and you said when you take off the balancer the notch on the crank aligns with the dot on the oil pump.

Now I look at blackworksinc pics from his thread, both can timing marks are at the "I" position BUT his crank is not at the "0" mark but instead points to the white mark @ 50c, then when he took off his balancer it still has the notch pointed to the dot on the oil pump body
Click to expand...

I linked you the FSM procedure in one of my earlier posts, just follow what that says to do since its Toyota's FSM. :)
 
So where was your notch on the crank gear when you pulled the balancer off and were you on the l marks on both cams?
 
goohead said:
See that's whats confusing me, in your pics it shows timing marks on the cams at the "I" position and crank at "0" mark and you said when you take off the balancer the notch on the crank aligns with the dot on the oil pump.

Now I look at blackworksinc pics from his thread, both can timing marks are at the "I" position BUT his crank is not at the "0" mark but instead points to the white mark @ 50c, then when he took off his balancer it still has the notch pointed to the dot on the oil pump body
Click to expand...

i don't remember the details now, but I also ran into some weird issues like this when I did mine.
before I took it apart, the marks didn't line up with the marks that blackworks links to.

but, I KNEW it was working/running correctly, and I also believed the belt had never been done, so it came this way from the factory. I put the new belt back on, with the timing marks exactly how it was when I took it apart.
that was several thousand miles ago. and not so much as a hiccup.
 
Just to update took everything back apart and timing was set perfect, but just for good measure followed the fsm, turn the cams 1 and 1/2 tooth repositioned the crank to the oil pump housing dot, turned it 720 to verify like 3 times still no start. Gonna try to replace the cam sensor

uputyru7.jpg
eryzarah.jpg
3azaze8y.jpg
 
Just a quick head up for anyone else: when at the "0" timing point the notch in the crank gear should align with the dot on the oil pump housing and the cams should align with the "I" mark, when you advance it to the 50 degrees white dot point on the harmonic balancer it should align with the "T" mark not the "I" mark
 
goohead said:
Just to update took everything back apart and timing was set perfect, but just for good measure followed the fsm, turn the cams 1 and 1/2 tooth repositioned the crank to the oil pump housing dot, turned it 720 to verify like 3 times still no start. Gonna try to replace the cam sensor

uputyru7.jpg
eryzarah.jpg
3azaze8y.jpg
Click to expand...

Ignore the " balancer" timing marks Line up the dots and Is and the crank notch/dot on the oil pump. then when you put the balancer back on and line up the notch to the 0 deg mark the dots on the cam pullys should line up with the T marks.

The reason toyota and many other manufactures are going away from changing belts while any cylinder is at TDC is simply to reduce the chance of a valve hitting the piston in case the cams are rotated around.

VVTi shouldn't make a difference. Regardless of where the cam is in relation to the sprocket( retarded or advanced) The sprocket is what gets timed to the crank. The computer can calculate the position when it sends full oil pressure to the VVT sprocket. Note the

gshadow325 said:
Man you way off. hopefully no damage.

Scott from hi tech posted some great photos and explaination on why you might not be starting. you using the wrong marks

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/158787-p0016-p0018-v8-vvti-2005-sport.html#post1585218
Click to expand...


In the pictures i posted you can see that that balancer is at 0 and the notches on the cam gears SHOULD align with the T marks, they were each 1 tooth off.



However, I believe you have a cam sensor issue, The wiring is very susceptible to breaking/chaffing. The best way to test it would be to back probe the connector with a labscope and monitor the waveform if there is one. Make sure to check the Voltage going to the sensor and the ground coming from it.
 
see thats the thing, when you look at my marks in the pic i had the notch aligned to the dot on the oil pump and cam marks to the "I" I turn it 2x 360 and it lines up again = notch/dot, cams/"I"

as per the instructions here:



when i put the balancer back on and turn 2x 360 it sits at "0" and the "I" and not the "T" as you mentioned.

are you sure its suppose to sit at "0" and "T", not the white dot on the balancer back plate and "T" and "0"/"I"
 
goohead said:
see thats the thing, when you look at my marks in the pic i had the notch aligned to the dot on the oil pump and cam marks to the "I" I turn it 2x 360 and it lines up again = notch/dot, cams/"I"

as per the instructions here:



when i put the balancer back on and turn 2x 360 it sits at "0" and the "I" and not the "T" as you mentioned.

are you sure its suppose to sit at "0" and "T", not the white dot on the balancer back plate and "T" and "0"/"I"
Click to expand...

I have done dozens of timing belts, always set them as per this picture.

This whole 50 deg dot thing doesn't make sense to me and i have never seen it or paid enough attention to it. BUT if the T marks line up with the 0deg mark on the crank. then you would have to rotate the crank counter clock wise to line up the "I " marks
 
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