no start issue after KS replacement.

2ndgenmafia

New member
so i replaced the knock sensor wire on my 3vze, put everything back together and no it wont start. its getting spark and fuel... but just cranks and cranks but will not turn on. somebody please help, any help would be appreciated so i dont have to take this thing to the stealership.:smokin:
 
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Check the timing. It may be out. You can loosen the distributor and advance or retard it then turn it over to see if it will fire.

i have tried moving distributor to both extremes... and it still will not start. any way to check timing without redoing the belt considering its not running?
 
How did you time it when you put it back together or when you took it apart for that matter. Did you rotate to TDC beforehand?
 
Did you remember to plug in the air flow meter? I know the 3.4 won't run with it disconnected not sure about 3.0 but that could be an easy fix...
 
Also check grounds. Did you disconnect the coolant temp sensor? If that's not working right it can cause weird no start problems.
 
i have tried moving distributor to both extremes... and it still will not start. any way to check timing without redoing the belt considering its not running?
You could hook up the timing light and have someone turn it over. It might show up just enough to see if your close.

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Did you remember to plug in the air flow meter? I know the 3.4 won't run with it disconnected not sure about 3.0 but that could be an easy fix...

The 22RE and 3VZE are the same. But if he's getting fuel then this isn't his problem, because if there was no signal from the AFM/MAF then the COP wouldn't give power to the fuel pump.
 
How did you check fuel pressure? Push the schrader valve on the fuel rail while cranking or are you just hearing it prime when you turn the key? Is there a chance you broke the connector for the coolant temp sensor or broke the sensor itself? If you're getting spark and fuel the best idea I have is a problem with a sensor that regulates the air/fuel mixture. I've seen it where a bad ect is registering like -50 degrees so the injectors are just dumping fuel in the cylinders and flooding it out.
 
How did you check fuel pressure? Push the schrader valve on the fuel rail while cranking or are you just hearing it prime when you turn the key? Is there a chance you broke the connector for the coolant temp sensor or broke the sensor itself? If you're getting spark and fuel the best idea I have is a problem with a sensor that regulates the air/fuel mixture. I've seen it where a bad ect is registering like -50 degrees so the injectors are just dumping fuel in the cylinders and flooding it out.

i know im getting fuel bc i unplugged the cold start and it was spraying fuel... hearing the pump prime, and listening to the injectors fire. also i had a slight fuel leak on one of the rails (fixed that). im just stumped with this problem.. and need it fixed as soon as possible so i get this rig back out on the road & the trails.
 
If you truly have fuel and spark, in theory, you're only missing air for it to run. You still didn't answer how you tore it down, did you set it to TDC beforehand and how did you put it back together. You need to verify timing to begin with(assuming you took the belt off?) and go from there. Don't guess by rotating the distributor. Time it properly and go from there.
 
If you truly have fuel and spark, in theory, you're only missing air for it to run. You still didn't answer how you tore it down, did you set it to TDC beforehand and how did you put it back together. You need to verify timing to begin with(assuming you took the belt off?) and go from there. Don't guess by rotating the distributor. Time it properly and go from there.

i popped the plenum off the intake mani came off... gained access to the KS wire & replaced it... with new gaskets put it all back together. you dont have to take the belt off at all. i did not set it tdc before the tear down... from my understanding i didnt have to do the timing considered i did not touch the belt...or any other ignition component.
 
I thought the upper idle roller for the timing belt was held down by a few bolts through the manifold. But anyway, it sounds like you're missing air to make it run. I would still verify timing if it doesn't run after you've checked for the obvious(vacuum leaks, etc.). You'll figure it out.
 
I thought the upper idle roller for the timing belt was held down by a few bolts through the manifold. But anyway, it sounds like you're missing air to make it run. I would still verify timing if it doesn't run after you've checked for the obvious(vacuum leaks, etc.). You'll figure it out.

You are absolutely right... It's bolted to the manifold by 4 bolts. That I did have to take off. Think it could have made the belt loose enough to jump a tooth or two and get outta timing? I mean at this point it's my only option... I guess. I have went through vac lines 1000x double and triple checked the testing stated in the fsm for all sensors to possibly make it not start.
 
Yes it could have most certainly moved the cams. If you've checked everything else, verified fuel and spark, unfortunately, I think it's probably your only option.

Put everything to ground zero and time it with a light. For all the grief these engines get, they are really, really easy to diagnose. Good luck, you'll get it figured out.

EDIT: And along the lines of checking the obvious, make sure your battery is charged. You would be surprised how a weak battery affects old cars starting.
 
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Sort of impossible to time an engine with a timing light if it won't run. And trying to see if its timed while turning the ignition key is not going to give any sort of correct timing mark.

Sure, it may flash whenever it passes #1 cylinder, but the engine is advanced by the ecu when starting, and can bounce all over the place while cranking, so you'll never get close enough to see if its off. And I doubt you'll be able to spin the engine fast enough to really see the timing mark work to your favor.

The only way to see if the cams have slipped is to manually set them. One way to see if they are out of time is to set crank at TDC, pull #1 plug, check piston for TDC (making sure its not 180º out, if it isn't, spin engine another 360º and re-check piston for TDC), then use a leakdown tester to see if it holds pressure. That will tell you if the valves are completely closed, which will tell you whether the cam slipped or not. If you hear air leaking through and cannot get pressure to build to at least 75psi (while set at 100psi for test), turn the crank slightly back and forth while watching the gauge. Where it shows the highest pressure, look at the crank, that's how far off the cam is.

Furthermore, you can have one side out and not the other, depending on what tooth slipped, so you'll now have to a cylinder on the other side (spinning the motor 360º first), although I can't remember which one is closed when at TDC. I think its #5, but don't quote me on that.

This shouldn't take much more than about 10-20 minutes to check, and will tell you right away if the cams are not in the right position.

Of course, if you don't mind pulling the front cover, that would be the best way to check if the marks are lining up.
 
I mean to say once he's visually verified timing marks and after it starts, he's going to want to time it with a light(he's been futzing with the distributor). Taking him at his word that he has fuel and spark, it sounds like a timing issue. But who knows, it could be something else entirely obvious that's amiss.
 
Did you blow the EFI fuse? In the cab behind the kick panel?

Dumb question but seriously worth a look.

Efi fuse and relay are both... Tested relay with voltmeter. As of right now I'm almost all the way tore down to check timing. Very good points were I have fuel and spark it's gotta be air, I'm pretty sure hats good... I covered the tb with my hand and started cranking it.... It sucked on my hand pretty good. Lol. So it's gotta be timing. I just didn't wanna accept it being that... Lol. Not the work, just time consuming. But might as well replace water pump idler pulley and belt since I'm in there
 

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