no start on rebuild

So far i have replaced
battery
starter

i can jump the starter relay and the starter turns over but i'm not getting anything from the keyswitch/neutral switch side of the relay when i press the key.

i can see the anti theft, light blink and it goes out once i put the key in, so that looks like its working accordingly.

i believe the only other thing that would prevent from sending the starter signal out is the neutral/safety switch on the transmission.

besides having a bad ecu, that i doubt because before the engine swap was turning on, constantly.

my neutral position switch went and it would start in neutral, but in park i got nothing when i turned the key, not even a click. that's pretty cheap to replace. it may not be a bad ecu, but if it's not communicating to your scanner when the car is turned on then i think that's a clue of some sort.
 
Nice! I was just curious, Toyota doesn't do anything beyond a Short Block so if you had found a Long Block or a crate motor I was gonna be like, "where the hell did you find that and can I get their number?" lol

Sorry to interfere with the thread, but I had to add this because I think it's hilarious. Toyota will sell a complete engine, currently for $20k which is $5k more than it was in March. I found it from the link in daprotege5's build thread.

toyota 4Runner Engine Complete. ASSEMBLY - 1900031A20 | Modern Toyota, Winston-Salem NC
 
Sorry to interfere with the thread, but I had to add this because I think it's hilarious. Toyota will sell a complete engine, currently for $20k which is $5k more than it was in March. I found it from the link in daprotege5's build thread.

toyota 4Runner Engine Complete. ASSEMBLY - 1900031A20 | Modern Toyota, Winston-Salem NC

was just the short block, but still a great deal. not sure how they calculate a new complete engine to be $20k+ ridiculous. you figured they wanna keep as many cars on the road with current availability of vehicles.
 
was just the short block, but still a great deal. not sure how they calculate a new complete engine to be $20k+ ridiculous. you figured they wanna keep as many cars on the road with current availability of vehicles.

Yeah I think the short block is a great deal, especially if you catch the sale price. That $15-25k must be the price for them to take every piece and have a tech build a new engine, plus a big markup. You can buy all the individual pieces so it would make sense that they can build a new engine using them. I'm sure you could do it a lot cheaper yourself though lol.

Maybe they figure it's not worth the time to build the engines since most people will just get a junkyard engine or buy the short block.
 
So after all the BS and frustration. i ended up paying someone to come out and tell me the ECU needed to be replaced. Had a friend come over that usually helps me with everything, coincidentally that night as well. he literally moved the ecu-b fuse and swapped it with the headlight fuse as it looked a little irregular and low and behold she cranked right up. have been able to turn off and on three times now, let it idle for a good 30 mins since motor is brand spanking new. gonna change the oil tomorrow with fresh oil since it was a new build and than start the break in process. dying to get those miles out the way, weather has been perfect for some 4 wheeling here in Florida.
 
...he literally moved the ecu-b fuse and swapped it with the headlight fuse as it looked a little irregular and low and behold she cranked right up...

Best carry a few spare fuses for a while if it's not clear why the original ecu-b fuse blew. Any theory as to how it happened? Maybe wrenching with the battery connected and grounded a circuit?
 
thats the thing fuse wasnt even blown, kinda like whats happened with the injector fuses were it looks a little burnt on one side. he literally just swapped the fuses out and cranked right up. which would make sense since the ecu-b fuse is right next to them. i vaguely remember throwing out a shit **** for sparking the battery so that might have done it. but she's running now, and definitely keeping some fuses on hand. have had it on 3 times for 30 mins everything seems to be running fine. gonna change the oil and filter since it was a fresh engine just to be overly precautious. now to a 1000 miles so i can start towing my toys again.
 
Glad you got it running :yo:, at one point I was thinking it could be a fuse for the ECU since you said it wasn't recognizing/seeing the ECU, but I just figured you had checked the fuses which is usually the first thing to check when there's an electrical issue.
 
Glad you got it running :yo:, at one point I was thinking it could be a fuse for the ECU since you said it wasn't recognizing/seeing the ECU, but I just figured you had checked the fuses which is usually the first thing to check when there's an electrical issue.

Definitely went through all the fuses to say I was both happy and wtf that it turned on for him but hey it turned on. Put about 20 miles on it so far. And seems to be running good. Scanner shows one of the o2 sensors failing so gotta fix that but all and all she’s running great.
 
Took her to the beach this past weekend so far so good. Have clocked right around 500 miles idle is perfectly smooth. Have a code for o2 sensor and my rear brake needs replacing so ordered some parts to fix.

How can I fix my cel it doesn’t illuminate??
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,089
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top