Non JBL entune question

skt4271

New member
I tried to search a little and came up with nothing.

What's the specs for the 5th gen entune? I just replaced the front, rear, and cargo speakers with cheap Kickers and started to get curious on how many watts is the radio capable of pumping.
 
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Of course you can call Toyota to find out. However most stock radios usually put out about 20-ish watts of rms (that's true power) per channel. Not sure if you got 2 or 4 ohm impedance on your speakers when you bought them, but that won't make that much of a difference because even if it's off, having low wattage won't really affect it. You can also call Car Audio Stereo - Car Subwoofers - Car Amplifiers and Speakers they are a great online car audio dealer, with great prices-tou can haggle with them a little too. They'll be able to answer these questions, they've got great tech support.
 
16-20 watts is normal for an OEM stereo. Rear doors and tailgate are run in series off the rear channels of the stereo so cut that in half. There are only 2 rear channels driving 4 speakers. Hope you replaced the dash speakers also, that'll make more of a difference than anything else.
 
16-20 watts is normal for an OEM stereo. Rear doors and tailgate are run in series off the rear channels of the stereo so cut that in half. There are only 2 rear channels driving 4 speakers. Hope you replaced the dash speakers also, that'll make more of a difference than anything else.

I think you mean series parallel, the front dash and doors are series parallel as well.
 
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I think you mean series parallel, the front dash and doors are series parallel as well.

No, they are all series, not series parallel. Series parallel is when you have say 4 speakers. 2 sets of 2, you series 2 speakers with each other and they parallel the 2 pairs. Hope that makes sense lol. You can't run series parallel with only 2 speakers.
 
No, they are all series, not series parallel. Series parallel is when you have say 4 speakers. 2 sets of 2, you series 2 speakers with each other and they parallel the 2 pairs. Hope that makes sense lol. You can't run series parallel with only 2 speakers.

Right, that is what I'm saying. The front channels are the dash speakers and the door speakers, 4 total. The rear channels are the rear doors and lift gate, 4 total. There are only 4 pairs of speaker wire coming out of the head unit ie. LF (all +/-), RF, LR, RR. The 4R has 8 speakers total.
 
Right, that is what I'm saying. The front channels are the dash speakers and the door speakers, 4 total. The rear channels are the rear doors and lift gate, 4 total. There are only 4 pairs of speaker wire coming out of the head unit ie. LF (all +/-), RF, LR, RR. The 4R has 8 speakers total.

I know how it works. There is no series parallel though, just series for the total of 8 speakers as you stated. Rear doors and tailgate are series on the 2 rear channels, dash and doors are series on the 2 front channels.
 
I know how it works. There is no series parallel though, just series for the total of 8 speakers as you stated. Rear doors and tailgate are series on the 2 rear channels, dash and doors are series on the 2 front channels.

Ok, not trying to be argumentative, just following your logic. How is the impedance of the speakers in series compensated for then?
 
Ok, not trying to be argumentative, just following your logic. How is the impedance of the speakers in series compensated for then?

What do you mean? Asking that seriously, I don't want to argue either, I have better things to do. I've been in the audio industry for 20 years and I'm sure I can explain anything you may want to know. Series turns a pair of 4 ohm speakers into a single 8 ohm load. Parallel turns a pair of 4 ohm speakers into a single 2 ohm load. You can do this is any speaker. Take a paid of 8 ohm speakers and run them in parallel for a single 4 ohm load, and pair of 8 ohm speakers in series for a 16 ohm load. The possibilities are literally endless. The higher the impedance (resistance), the cleaner and cooler the amp will run, it will pull less current also, however output power is compromised. The lower the impedance, the more power the amp will produce however it will run hotter, pull more current, clarity is compromised, and in some cases the integrity of the amp is compromised.
 
What do you mean? Asking that seriously, I don't want to argue either, I have better things to do. I've been in the audio industry for 20 years and I'm sure I can explain anything you may want to know. Series turns a pair of 4 ohm speakers into a single 8 ohm load. Parallel turns a pair of 4 ohm speakers into a single 2 ohm load. You can do this is any speaker. Take a paid of 8 ohm speakers and run them in parallel for a single 4 ohm load, and pair of 8 ohm speakers in series for a 16 ohm load. The possibilities are literally endless. The higher the impedance (resistance), the cleaner and cooler the amp will run, it will pull less current also, however output power is compromised. The lower the impedance, the more power the amp will produce however it will run hotter, pull more current, clarity is compromised, and in some cases the integrity of the amp is compromised.

Fair enough, I will leave it with this. The head unit sees 8 Ohms due to the 4 Ohm speakers in series, which in turn, cuts the output power of the head unit. With this said, a simple (not really simple) re wire of the speakers so the head unit sees 4 Ohms instead of 8 Ohms would increase the output of the stock head unit for relatively cheap other than someone's time. Correct?
 
Fair enough, I will leave it with this. The head unit sees 8 Ohms due to the 4 Ohm speakers in series, which in turn, cuts the output power of the head unit. With this said, a simple (not really simple) re wire of the speakers so the head unit sees 4 Ohms instead of 8 Ohms would increase the output of the stock head unit for relatively cheap other than someone's time. Correct?

That is partly incorrect assuming the stock speakers are 4 ohms each. If the stock speakers are 4 ohms each, running them in series will give you 8 ohms, you're correct there. If you were to rewire them and run them in parallel, the stereo would see a 2 ohm load on each channel. This would cause the stereo to run much hotter than it was designed to run, possibly overheat the internal amp, possibly damage the internal amp. A pair of 4 ohm speakers in series provides an 8 ohm load, a pair of 4 ohm speakers in parallel provides a 2 ohm load.
 
The front dash and front door speakers are series-parallel, the the rear door and rear hatch speakers are series-only, just look at a wiring schematic, or unplug your rear door speaker and the hatch speaker will stop working.

I haven't ohmed the stock ones, but they are noticeably quieter than the fronts, so I assume they're 4 ohms, for a circuit total of 8 ohms.

The Entune headunit is definitely compensating with a built in equalizer tune. I've been waiting for TacoTunes or someone to post a youtube vid with a white sound analysis of what it's actually kicking out. The front is receiving most of the bass, and the stock speakers are pitiful. The bass response is very tapered as volume is increased, I assume to keep the stock speakers from clipping.

DSP amps, decent speakers, and a sub run from the front input are the cure, with each speaker output on its own channel (no series-parallel or series).

Narat
 
The front dash and front door speakers are series-parallel, the the rear door and rear hatch speakers are series-only, just look at a wiring schematic, or unplug your rear door speaker and the hatch speaker will stop working.

I haven't ohmed the stock ones, but they are noticeably quieter than the fronts, so I assume they're 4 ohms, for a circuit total of 8 ohms.

The Entune headunit is definitely compensating with a built in equalizer tune. I've been waiting for TacoTunes or someone to post a youtube vid with a white sound analysis of what it's actually kicking out. The front is receiving most of the bass, and the stock speakers are pitiful. The bass response is very tapered as volume is increased, I assume to keep the stock speakers from clipping.

DSP amps, decent speakers, and a sub run from the front input are the cure, with each speaker output on its own channel (no series-parallel or series).

Narat

Thank you, we were both correct on one end. Makes sense now.
 
Kind of odd that all this is lumped into one area. Most sites break down by category like audio, suspension, lighting ect... op do you have party mode and does that make a difference with the aftermarket setup?
 
Bringing this back to ask a related question instead of starting a new thread. Forgive me for being a car audio newb...
I understand the dash tweeters and front door woofers work in tandem to provide the front sound. I am looking at replacing speakers only, no additional amp (please not try to convince me to add an amp).
Will replacing the front door woofers with 2-way speakers provide any benefit (would that make 4 tweeters in the front?)? Or would that just negate the dash tweeters? Would this provide better sound quality?
 
Bringing this back to ask a related question instead of starting a new thread. Forgive me for being a car audio newb...
I understand the dash tweeters and front door woofers work in tandem to provide the front sound. I am looking at replacing speakers only, no additional amp (please not try to convince me to add an amp).
Will replacing the front door woofers with 2-way speakers provide any benefit (would that make 4 tweeters in the front?)? Or would that just negate the dash tweeters? Would this provide better sound quality?

Yes - you would effectively have 4 tweeters in the front of the vehicle if you replaced the door speakers with coax and left the dash speakers stock. Whether this is a benefit or not will come down to your equipment, install and listening preferences. Some people like powerful and sharp "highs" (treble, vocals, etc) in their setups; but more often than not adding redundant high frequency drivers to a system creates nothing but issues.

Theoretically speaking, you would be better off adding a 4ohm 3-4" coaxial (2-way) in the dash and replacing the door speakers with a 2ohm mid-bass/woofer. This will keep the frequencies separated as designed from factory, while adding better response and output.
 
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Yes - you would effectively have 4 tweeters in the front of the vehicle if you replaced the door speakers with coax and left the dash speakers stock. Whether this is a benefit or not will come down to your equipment, install and listening preferences. Some people like powerful and sharp "highs" (treble, vocals, etc) in their setups; but more often than not adding redundant high frequency drivers to a system creates nothing but issues.

Theoretically speaking, you would be better off adding a 4ohm 3-4" coaxial (2-way) in the dash and replacing the door speakers with a 2ohm mid-bass/woofer. This will keep the frequencies separated as designed from factory, while adding better response and output.

Thanks for getting back to me!
After doing a little more research (and not hearing back on this thread), I decided to pull the trigger on the OEM Audio + speakers. I found a used set and got a good deal on them. Figured it was the easy solution that is plug and play. They sound better than stock and I think I'm content with the sound for now.
 
Thanks for getting back to me!
After doing a little more research (and not hearing back on this thread), I decided to pull the trigger on the OEM Audio + speakers. I found a used set and got a good deal on them. Figured it was the easy solution that is plug and play. They sound better than stock and I think I'm content with the sound for now.

Great call there. OEM+ takes the guesswork out of it and ensures that the proper loads and frequencies are accounted for.

If you don't mind me asking - how much did you scoop the used speakers for? I am in the process of buying the equipment to add DSP/Amp + 3 way front components and Subwoofer, but want to leave the rear speakers running off the HU. I may keep on the lookout to go OEM+ with them if a deal comes around....

cheers
 
Great call there. OEM+ takes the guesswork out of it and ensures that the proper loads and frequencies are accounted for.

If you don't mind me asking - how much did you scoop the used speakers for? I am in the process of buying the equipment to add DSP/Amp + 3 way front components and Subwoofer, but want to leave the rear speakers running off the HU. I may keep on the lookout to go OEM+ with them if a deal comes around....

cheers

Thanks! I only went with the speaker upgrade because I don't want to loose any storage space in the rear (yes the subs are elegantly integrated but every square inch counts).
I'd say it will be hard to find a used set of OEM Audio + speakers because most will either enjoy them or not bother parting them out when they sell. I was lucky to find someone upgrading the entire audio system to a one-off custom setup and they decided to let go of their speakers.
 

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