"Not-So-Lifetime" 3rd Gen Fuel Filter

The first time I replaced my fuel filter I had a leak on the front nut because I tightened until it stopped and then went another quarter turn. My dad went back and tightened until it was impossible to turn it anymore and that fixed it. The second time I replaced the filter I threaded the filter onto the front nut first, then the back one, and then placed the bracket back on. You pretty much just need to turn the hell out of those nuts. If it got cross threaded that's another issue altogether. Another problem could be that the fitting on the fuel line is frozen and unable to turn. You can get around that by removing the fuel filter bracket and turning the actual filter instead. This would only work if one fitting is frozen
 
When tightening flared nuts, I always apply a coat of engine oil to the flare. This helps a lot to ensure the nut is is not binding up prematurely. If you have a torque wrench with the right fitting they should be tightened to 18 ft/lbs (24 Nm).
 
Mine went off without a hitch but I only did it since the transmission was out.

The V6 has it mounted under the driver but mines in hell.

Without the starter/trans itself in the way, you can just barely get your hands in there and replace the fuel filter hiding beneath the intake manifold...

A McB!tch, but I am not quite sure I really have noticed any difference yet...
 
Ron Helmuth said:
runrunner did that Mann filter come with a new bracket as well? Could we see a shot of that one-I recall you talking about it a few months back. I remember Gresham pretty well when I was up there in 02. The Yota dealer there was pretty unhelpful when my 2nd gen was running crappy. Told me they could work me in to their schedule in about a week...
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The Mann filter did not come with the bracket, but it did have the contoured sides that allowed it to fit properly into the bracket.

I placed the bracket on mine but left it loose. I then connected the lines with out securing the bracket until they were snug. Then did I secure the bracket to the body and tightened the lines. Lastly I tightened down the bracket to the filter.

Again, I had a leak at the front line, but I attribute that to not being tight enough. The front line is a little more difficult to get to than the rear. I also did not have line wrenches, just a few different opened end ones. Found the best one that fit and went at it.

I also made sure that when the filter was out I really cleaned up the ends of the lines.

Oh, and sorry I dont have any pics.
 
wow. after only 60k miles? that's a lot lower than i would have guessed. gives you a lot of confidence when toyota tells you that the new "world standard" ATF in their newer cars is supposed to last the life of the vehicle as well.
 
Ron i think all the fuel filter issues have been covered, but i did want to say if you need some MR2 parts drop me a PM or email. I'm getting ready to go pick up another load of parts from nebraska, and i've had 8 MKI MR2's so i have quite a few parts left (and of course will be driving right though your area). My 88 is going to be loosing its 1.6 liter w/ supercharger set up and going to a 2.1 liter turbo set up. :D
 
Improper technique at play

My new best friend Slava of Irbis Off Road and now Quality Avto (Russian-Ukrainian) was able to solve the issue in about 10 minutes. I was not holding the filter body nut shaped ends with a separate wrench and then tightening against it with the 14mm wrench for the compression fitting. So I was getting it "tight" but not tight enough.

The rear fuel line (marked in on the filter) moves back and away from the filter-the front or out line stays somewhat fixed in place. I was not cross threading and did not damage the flared fuel line ends so luckily he was able to tighten it down properly and edu-ma-cate me at the same time.

I was using this writeup as a guide and it was just a bit too vague for me.

4Runners.org - Replacing the Fuel Filter on a 98 4Runner V6

I am good at following directions-but the alternating threading of the compression fittings seemingly is not correct and unrelated. I was mating up the ends just fine-but was not getting enough torque down on the fittings.

Appreciate every one's input and the explanation about the rubber fuel line. It got me by long enough to get to the shop and have the filter correctly inserted then tightened and mounted back to the underside of the vehicle.

StickFigure I think we are okay on MR2 parts and may even have some you might need or want to trade... I will PM you sir.

Very helpful of all of you and thanks for easing my frustration a bit. Now that the new fuel filter is in place I notice improved throttle response and no hesitation in idle or acceleration. Truck is feeling a bit zippier now and I foresee a pricey speeding ticket if I don't cool my jets a bit....:cry:
 
Judging by what everyone is saying about the fuel filter on the 2.7 liter 4 banger (I've seen where they hid that blasted thing) I'm wondering if its not just simpler to rip the intake manifold assembly off of the engine and tackle it that way:wow2: After looking at it I'm seriously thinking that this one may actually be worth paying for!
 
Changing the Fuel Filter on a 3rd Gen V6, T4R ,SR5

Any seasoned Veterans on Fuel Filter replacement, with sound advice, please respond:

  1. I plan on changing out the fuel filter on my 1997, T4R, SR5 and wanted to ask a few questions for advice before I start this task.
  2. Which is the better Fuel Filter for this application the OEM or the NAPA Fuel Filter that comes with the bracket? NAPA carries their "Gold" fuel filter for the T4R and you can OPT to buy one with a bracket.
  3. Which wrench sizes and tools are needed for the removal and installation of the fuel filter?
  4. Should any sensors be replaced while changing out the fuel filter?
Thanks in advance.
 
I replaced my filter at around 250,000 miles. I only did it cause of what you people were telling me.

Yes, threading it is a pain in the butt, but go slow, and do it by hand.

And NO !!!!!!!! I did not notice more power and any change to MPG.
 
Did anyones fuel gauge stop working properly when they did this? I changed mine a good 6 months back and it immediately malfunctioned and would stop reading what fuel was left at a half tank. Still have the problem today so I just go by mileage.
 
Avarice said:
Did anyones fuel gauge stop working properly when they did this? I changed mine a good 6 months back and it immediately malfunctioned and would stop reading what fuel was left at a half tank. Still have the problem today so I just go by mileage.
Click to expand...

links to the fsm for sorting your gauge problem out.

http://sites.google.com/site/raydouble360/toyota-tech/TSBEL010-00fuelgauge.pdf?attredirects=0&d=1 Fuel gauge inaccuracy
http://sites.google.com/site/raydouble360/toyota-tech/EL010-9999-00Fuelgaugerecalibrate.txt?attredirects=0&d=1 Fuel gauge recalibration procedure (text description of the procedure in the .pdf file as I couldn't find the original)
 
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