Octanejunkie's T4R project - 99 SR5 4WD 5-speed

[5VZ-FE]

It's a handy setup, the hose easily reaches all 4 corners without the box leaving the front of the truck. The pump can fill a tire from 12 to 33 psi in just under a minute at sea level.

Is it faster or slower at altitudes above sea level? I filled my tires from 20 to 40psi at 6,000ish feet a few weeks ago, and it it took way longer than a minute. Does it have something to do with thinner air?

Nice portable box.

 

[octanejunkie]

Is it faster or slower at altitudes above sea level? I filled my tires from 20 to 40psi at 6,000ish feet a few weeks ago, and it it took way longer than a minute. Does it have something to do with thinner air?

Nice portable box.

Thinner air, potentially, yes, but mostly, the power of the pump comes into play the higher the psi you are filling your tires to. The difference between 30psi and 40psi is significant to small pumps. You need to look at the pump's capabilities, like air flow @ 0 psi vs @ 30 psi, load at operating temperature and maximum pump pressure.

The CKMA12 is capable of 3.08 cfm @ 0 psi and 2.34 cfm @ 30 psi, with a 100 psi max. The duty cycle is 50% at room temp, 72° F - meaning it needs to rest as much as it operates, like use for 30 mins, rest for 30 mins - at hotter ambient temps it needs to rest more, at cooler temps, slightly less. The current draw in amps to operate at full load and duty cycle is 12.4 amps vs 7.1 amps at 0 psi.

The CKMTA12 (the dual pump) doubles those values and can tolerate no rest for double the time, achieving 150 psi max pressure, but also draws more than double the current load, maxing out at a 50.4 amp draw.

Temperature, altitude, load and duty cycle all come into play when considering a pump for the task.

I used it at "altitude" at the top of Cleghorn, north of 3,500' IIRC, and it took about the same time as at sea level. A pressure gauge that references the atmospheric pressure around it will read higher at altitude so always double check tire pressure at your usual elevation or compensate for that when airing up.

I live at sea level so I had to add a around 3 psi to each tire after the drive home.

 

[5VZ-FE]

Thinner air, potentially, yes, but mostly, the power of the pump comes into play the higher the psi you are filling your tires to. The difference between 30psi and 40psi is significant to small pumps. You need to look at the pump's capabilities, like air flow @ 0 psi vs @ 30 psi, load at operating temperature and maximum pump pressure.

The CKMA12 is capable of 3.08 cfm @ 0 psi and 2.34 cfm @ 30 psi, with a 100 psi max. The duty cycle is 50% at room temp, 72° F - meaning it needs to rest as much as it operates, like use for 30 mins, rest for 30 mins - at hotter ambient temps it needs to rest more, at cooler temps, slightly less. The current draw in amps to operate at full load and duty cycle is 12.4 amps vs 7.1 amps at 0 psi.

The CKMTA12 (the dual pump) doubles those values and can tolerate no rest for double the time, achieving 150 psi max pressure, but also draws more than double the current load, maxing out at a 50.4 amp draw.

Temperature, altitude, load and duty cycle all come into play when considering a pump for the task.

I used it at "altitude" at the top of Cleghorn, north of 3,500' IIRC, and it took about the same time as at sea level. A pressure gauge that references the atmospheric pressure around it will read higher at altitude so always double check tire pressure at your usual elevation or compensate for that when airing up.

I live at sea level so I had to add a around 3 psi to each tire after the drive home.

I have the ckma12. Good info.

 

[octanejunkie]

Weekend Update - 248,848 (yes, seriously)

Cleaned and painted frame sides after sliders welded on using AGS Rust Solutions since there was a wee bit of surface rust present

Ordered the balance of the supplies needed for my dual battery install

Picking up a fridge from a buddy who is no longer using it, he upgraded to a Dometic

My clutch started slipping consistently, so I went ahead and ordered up a complete replacement clutch set:

Aisin Clutch Kit CKT-040

Includes pressure plate, friction plate, cover, bearings, etc.

Sachs Flywheel NFW6939

Aisin Clutch Master Cylinder CMT-093

Aisin Clutch Slave Cylinder CRT-014

Toyota Rear Main Seal 90311-A0027

Flywheel bolt x 8 : 90105-10138

Pressure Plate bolt x 6 : 90119-08079

And since I read many "complaints" about the release bearings included in "clutch kits" I ordered a spare Timken Clutch Release Bearing 614162

I have a local shop lined up to turn it around in 1-2 days once all the parts are in mid-next week

That is all for now...

2WD
Pulled the ARB bumper and reinstalled the factory color-matched bumper

EDIT: added PNs

 

[JZiggy]

You gonna sleeve the rear main before installing the seal?

 

[brillo_76]

The welds look decent on the sliders. Welded steel will rust alot faster then non welded. Hence why you started seeing slight surface.


You going to do the clutch yourself?



Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Luck]

You gonna sleeve the rear main before installing the seal?

I second this motion

 

[octanejunkie]

You gonna sleeve the rear main before installing the seal?

Not expensive to do, but why?

While I'm updating both master and slave cylinders, should I upgrade the clutch flexible line?

 

[JZiggy]

Not expensive to do, but why?

While I'm updating both master and slave cylinders, should I upgrade the clutch flexible line?

Especially if your rear main is leaking it's common for the seal to wear a groove onto the crankshaft. A new seal won't seal onto it properly. A crank sleeve presents a fresh surface to the new seal so everyone can be happy and the oil can stay in.

It's not 100% that you need one, but you might. I've been there before, pulling the trans AGAIN because the rear main "didn't take". :doh:

 

[brillo_76]

Oh.. I very the seal surface is smooth when I change my crankshaft seal in my 5 speed.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[octanejunkie]

Especially if your rear main is leaking it's common for the seal to wear a groove onto the crankshaft. A new seal won't seal onto it properly. A crank sleeve presents a fresh surface to the new seal so everyone can be happy and the oil can stay in.



It's not 100% that you need one, but you might. I've been there before, pulling the trans AGAIN because the rear main "didn't take". :doh:

My RMS is not leaking but it's a good thing to be aware of.

Oh.. I very the seal surface is smooth when I change my crankshaft seal in my 5 speed.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

I will have my shop validate condition and have a sleeve handy in case it's needed.



Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

I am just glad to know it's a possibility. Now I can verify it's smooth when changing them. I really expect that to be more of a desert issue then rust belt.. As I wouldn't have thought of even looking at that.. Thanks for sharing..

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[octanejunkie]

Weekend Update - 249,060

New tires : 255/85 R16 Cooper Discover S/T MAXX

Been working on manual hub spindles

Welding gussets on

Painting

First I wire brushed it get off all the loose rust and dirt. Then rinsed with brake cleaner and sanded a few areas. I primered the bare metal with self etching primer and the rest with rust reformer. Let that dry for 48 to 72 hours and touched up any thin spots. I'm finished coating with Rust-Oleum Hammered Matte Black, which gives it that heavy shop equipment texture and color. Pictures above are after three coats. Letting it dry 24 to 48 hours between coats and will keep hitting it, lightly wet sanding between coats. It's mostly practice painting for other more critical areas lol

Just found out last night that Icon shipped my new-to-me front coilovers, purchased used from a member here, sent to Icon for rebuild and refurbish. I will post more about those when I install them.

As expected, the clutch is gone, 20% engagement at best. And gave up the ghost trying to climb a hill this weekend in the San Bernardino mountains. Getting at home was an adventure to say the least.

Hope the skid plates off last night and dropping it off at the shop this morning.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[phattyduck]

As expected, the clutch is gone, 20% engagement at best. And gave up the ghost trying to climb a hill this weekend in the San Bernardino mountains. Getting at home was an adventure to say the least.

Low gears are your friend in that situation. I had a rear engine oil leak onto a clutch once. Sucked because it was nearly brand new!! Same deal, could only put down about 20% of engine power. At least it was a 'flat' limp home for me.

-Charlie

 

[octanejunkie]

Low gears are your friend in that situation. I had a rear engine oil leak onto a clutch once. Sucked because it was nearly brand new!! Same deal, could only put down about 20% of engine power. At least it was a 'flat' limp home for me.



-Charlie

When my clutch finally fried I had to use 4 LO just to turn around lol

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

I burned my clutch completely out stuck on a side railroad tracks in a swamp. Luckily my buddies excavator was near by. I thought it was frozen as the ground was. However it was not. I had it buried. :[. The flywheel was even blued...:/

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[octanejunkie]

I burned my clutch completely out stuck on a side railroad tracks in a swamp. Luckily my buddies excavator was near by. I thought it was frozen as the ground was. However it was not. I had it buried. :[. The flywheel was even blued...:/

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

I'm expecting my flywheel to be cobalt colored lol

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

I'm expecting my flywheel to be cobalt colored lol

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Let's put it this way. If it was slipping above 2k 2.5k rpm. The flywheel is toast...:/

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[octanejunkie]

Let's put it this way. If it was slipping above 2k 2.5k rpm. The flywheel is toast...:/

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

IKR?

Scroll up and look at the parts list in this post:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3745975-post144.html

Sachs Flywheel NFW6939

 

[brillo_76]

IKR?

Scroll up and look at the parts list in this post:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3745975-post144.html

Sachs Flywheel NFW6939

Are they any good? Lots of folks have had serious issues with aftermarket flywheels for years. Maybe they are fine.

I just know I wouldn't want to change a clutch/ flywheel and have the starter bind in the teeth or have the surface not true enough that you have to redo it again.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk