Weekend update: 250,186
Installed ITREs and re-aligned with a tape measure and level. I will get it checked after I'm done with all my suspension upgrades. I ground a 30mm wrench down to fit the rack and used a big-ass pipe wrench to get to 73~ ft pounds by real feel. No more slip in turns.
Installed 4.88 front and rear differentials!
I didn't take pics cause working mostly alone and trying to get er done/working on tempo and being dirty.
Rear 3rd member
Opened fill and drain plugs and dumped what looked like almost new oil. No metal shavings/chips on the drain plug. Jacked up the car and supported the frame with jackstands and let the rear end drop to get full access to the pumpkin. Pulled the axles, sway bar and drive shaft. Used that opp to check and adjust e-brake and shoe/drum tension.
Removed third member
3 of my rear studs threaded out, the nuts were frozen, so I'll need to replace them, or all of the studs eventually. Closed them like bolts for now. Also need all new lock washers, mine were all tired and flat lol
Cleaned up the mounting surfaces on both the housing and 3rd member and sealed with a gasket from yotamasters, my FIPG was dried out
Cleaned and re-tested the actuator, I had to drive it off with a brass drift it was so frozen. Greased the O ring before install and tapped it on the "new" 3rd member.
Reinstalled axles and did a quick spin test, found the axles locked! The actuator must have moved the locking rack on install. Pulled the actuator and reset the rack (outside position), reinstalled and spun the wheels again - open diff/unlocked! Torqued everything down, filled with Lucas 85W 140 and bled the brakes with help.
Front clamshell
What a little *****. Removed front and trans skid. Opened fill and drain plugs and recollected my 75W 90 oil, will save for TC. Removed the Tacoma locking hub caps and base nuts/conical washers with with a brass drift with the wheels on, then jacked up the truck, supported with jackstands and removed the front wheels and the locking hub bases.
Removed axle retainer clips and CV axles by removing the 4 LBJ bolts and put the spindles back in place. Unbolted front drive shaft and moved it to the driver side. Unbolted the front diff rear bolt with a 13mm hex driver socket and pry bar as well as the 2 front mounting bolts with 19mm socket on a breaker bar and a 19mm box wrench up top.
With the diff loose I removed all the vent and vacuum lines and electrical connections, plugging everything to keep dirt from getting in. Unbolted the hose bracket and removed from the truck. This was the most contortionistic aspect of the job. Removed the 2-bolt passenger side front diff mount on the truck per a video I saw, didn't help.
Had to lift the trans about 1" with a jack. Unbolted 4 x 12mm trans mount bolts from the cross member. Unbolted the exhaust hanger (2 x 17mm) on the transmission passenger side to not stress the exhaust manifold. Put a block of wood on a jack and lifted the trans. At this point I was able to lift, wiggle and curse the front diff out and onto another jack and roll it out.
Swapped passenger extension and actuator as well as axle stub shaft into the new ECGS clamshell. Cleaned all surfaces and flushed with brake cleaner. Used a punch to remove the stub shaft from my old carrier and a dead blow to install it after dipping it in gear oil into the new carrier. Used Permatex grey on the passenger extension to clamshell and torqued to spec.
The driver side axle seal was installed new by ECGS (nice surprise) and I installed a new passenger side axle seal. I did not replace the needle bearing or outer bearing since I have manual hubs, the CVs only turn when I lock my hubs.
Reinstalling the front diff was basically the opposite of removal, went well with help. Reinstalled hose bracket, hoses and electrical connection and then bolted up the diff and driveshaft torquing everything to spec. Dropped trans and had to guide the mount back into position on the crossmember and bolted back up the 4 x 12mm bolts and the 2 x 17mm exhaust bracket.
Greased CV inner splines and the axle seals in the diff and reinstalled axles, spindles, etc. Torqued everything wheel/LBJ and filled the front diff with Lucas 85W 140. It took considerably less than the book since I had ECGS install a Spartan locker in there. Reinstalled skid plates and reviewed all things I touched to make sure everything was connected and torqued.
This whole job took 2 days, working mostly alone taking very few breaks but it was worth it. Quick functional testing and driving - no issues!
Next weekend is the first wheeling trip with the new diffs. Can't wait!
