OEM cross bars installed, no likey: mpg?; noise?; not easy to remove; alternatives?

Mawgie

New member
Folks -

Mine is a 2013 SR5, and I am singing the roof rack blues! I currently have the factory rails, and want to add cross bars to facilitate: 1) occasionally carrying simple cross bar loads of modest weight like 2x lumber, a fiberglass step ladder, etc; 2) occasionally mount a roof cargo box from either Thule or Yakima to hold lighter weight stuff when camping and on hunting trips.

I ordered the oem cross bars because: 1) they are cheap (about $115, two day shipped); 2) my projected load weights are modest; and 3) they sit low on the rails compared to other cross bars.

I mounted them today. The quality is fine, but as soon as they were mounted, I realized what I think was a mistake.

First, they are not designed for regular detachment. You have to remove both of the $90 plastic caps from the rear of the roof rails every time you want to take the cross bars off. So, realistically, you will never take the cross bars off.

Second, given that the cross bars will live permanently on the roof, one is stuck with whatever wind noise and fuel efficiency hit come with the OEM cross bars. I have not been able to find anything definitive re: wind noise and mpg loss with the OEM cross bars, but there must be some of both.

My roof rack and cargo box use will be occasional, less than once a month on average. Thus, I may well be a dummy. It makes no sense at all to leave potentially noisy, mpg robbing cross bars on all the time, when they are only infrequently in use.

Perhaps I may be left to spend my way out of this jam, by removing the oem cross bars and exercising one of the following options:

1) Thule Crossroad base + Aeroblade cross bar system: $330 - $350;
2) Thule Crossroad base + old school Thule rectangular bars: $280;
3) Thule Whispbar system: $450ish (nope, maybe if I had a Cayenne GTS).

I would appreciate some input, as follows:

1) has anyone noticed increased wind noise from driving around with the oem cross bars installed;
2) has anyone quantified an mpg loss from driving around with the oem cross bar installed;
3) are there other cross bars you folks ight recommend in the not much more than $300 range to fit my projected usage?

Thanks-Mawgie
 
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If you think the OEM's add wind noise or effect mpgs your nuts. Try adding a full length roof rack. There are marks on the OEM rack that tell you where to keep the cross bars for minimal wind noise. I seriously doubt you can get anything better for cheap with less noise. And your worried about this without out any or minimal seat time. Geez
 
Maxistyles-

Thanks. I just checked out the RhinoRack, and they are definitiely a candidate if I replace. The model whown on the RhinoRack website is the SXBS8 VORTEX AERO Rail Mounted Roof Rack System: $260 shipped, with a no questions asked 30 day return policy. Rated for 175 pounds, too. For anyone interested, here they are:
Rhino Rack SXBS8
Thanks for weighing in.....
 
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I noticed no wind noise and since mine came with cross bars when I bought it and I was able to get 24.5 on the highway, I would say they're negligible when it comes to MPGs. I have the Whispbars now because I wanted some width to run a cargo basket and a bike holder (search Whispbar through-bar cross bars I did a write up) as well as added cargo capacity. I had a 20% off coupon at REI and snagged them for a reasonable price. Just as quiet as OEM and again no MPG hit but it did add 2" of roof height.
 
Folks -

Mine is a 2013 SR5, and I am singing the roof rack blues! I currently have the factory rails, and want to add cross bars to facilitate: 1) occasionally carrying simple cross bar loads of modest weight like 2x lumber, a fiberglass step ladder, etc; 2) occasionally mount a roof cargo box from either Thule or Yakima to hold lighter weight stuff when camping and on hunting trips.

I ordered the oem cross bars because: 1) they are cheap (about $115, two day shipped); 2) my projected load weights are modest; and 3) they sit low on the rails compared to other cross bars.

I mounted them today. The quality is fine, but as soon as they were mounted, I realized what I think was a mistake.

First, they are not designed for regular detachment. You have to remove both of the $90 plastic caps from the rear of the roof rails every time you want to take the cross bars off. So, realistically, you will never take the cross bars off.

Second, given that the cross bars will live permanently on the roof, one is stuck with whatever wind noise and fuel efficiency hit come with the OEM cross bars. I have not been able to find anything definitive re: wind noise and mpg loss with the OEM cross bars, but there must be some of both.

My roof rack and cargo box use will be occasional, less than once a month on average. Thus, I may well be a dummy. It makes no sense at all to leave potentially noisy, mpg robbing cross bars on all the time, when they are only infrequently in use.

Perhaps I may be left to spend my way out of this jam, by removing the oem cross bars and exercising one of the following options:

1) Thule Crossroad base + Aeroblade cross bar system: $330 - $350;
2) Thule Crossroad base + old school Thule rectangular bars: $280;
3) Thule Whispbar system: $450ish (nope, maybe if I had a Cayenne GTS).

I would appreciate some input, as follows:

1) has anyone noticed increased wind noise from driving around with the oem cross bars installed;
2) has anyone quantified an mpg loss from driving around with the oem cross bar installed;
3) are there other cross bars you folks ight recommend in the not much more than $300 range to fit my projected usage?

Thanks-Mawgie

So you mounted them today and drove with them. Hear any increased noise? I just added the factory crossbars PLUS a set of Yakima Jaylow kayak carriers and I can't tell the things are up there even with the windows down.

For your uses it sounds like the factory bars will suit you well and should live up there permanently no problem.
 
You drive a 4R and you are concerned about the hit your fuel mileage
will take with crossbars????!
That's funny sh&t!
 
Lenny33-

My last rig was a Hemi Ram with 400 horsepower and a real world average of 13-14 mpg. I look at T4R gas money saved as mod money spent!
 
Perhaps I may be left to spend my way out of this jam, by removing the oem cross bars and exercising one of the following options:

1) Thule Crossroad base + Aeroblade cross bar system: $330 - $350;
2) Thule Crossroad base + old school Thule rectangular bars: $280;
3) Thule Whispbar system: $450ish (nope, maybe if I had a Cayenne GTS).

Or...

image_21298.jpg


Same price range, much more versatile.
 
[MENTION=112019]Mawgie[/MENTION] yes, the OEM cross bars will of course decrease efficiency. Good news though! Not by much. Their frontal area and xsection are very slight considering the rest of the vehicle.

Now, you want to spend $300 on detachable cross bars??? That's worth 90 gallons of gas! You can't be that silly right?
Let's say those cross bars decrease your efficiency by a tenth. They won't (probably less than half a tenth) but bear with me:

Losing a tenth of a mpg due to cross bar drag example

Say you drive 20,000 miles/yr
Say you got 20 miles/gal before adding cross bars
Say you get 19.9 miles/gal after adding cross bars

20,000/20=1,000 gallons
20,000/19.9=1,005 gallons

Even if it decreased your efficiency a 1/10 of an mpg (it won't) it will cost you a whopping $17.50 a year. That means it will only take you SEVENTEEN years to pay back your investment of $300 for new cross bars.

Dude....#smh

If you want to do something that will be more cost effective and increase efficiency then have your wife and you go on a diet. If you guys lost 50 lbs together then you more than pay for the loss of crossbar efficiency. Weight is the mpg killer everyone forgets. Good luck.
 
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Heck - the only thing that pissed me off about the factory crossbars was the fact that they sold me a car with a roof rack, and no crossbars were included!

I put the factory ones on as soon as I got my T4R a few weeks ago. they'll stay on until I get rid of it, or decide I need a more robust carrying system up there (not likely). I also have a hi-lift jack mounted up there that will only come down when needed, and a folding Malone kayak rack. I also carry a hundred pounds or so of recovery and survival gear locked in trunks that are tied down in the rear of the T4R....but they're always there if I need them.

The time I'd waste loading and unloading all that junk every time I went out would far surpass any fuel savings I may be sacrificing by just leaving them there.

Even with the kayak rack and hi-lift mounted, I do not notice any wind noise (even at highway speeds). The T4R is so much more quiet to ride in than my FJ was.
 
I have Thule rectangular bars because I carry kayaks or a canoe and needed wider and stronger bars. I can tell you that you can hear Thule bars on highway speed, but you'll need to turn off radio and listen for noises. As per fuel economy I didn't notice any real hit, there's probably a small one exists but it's not big enough to register. So I think you'll have real hard time to find mpg loss from OEM crossbars. And I can recommend Thule crossbars they are strong and easy to install/remove, but if you're sensitive to noise I guess you'll have to stick to the OEM ones : )
 
I have factory crossbars (truck came with them). I notice no noise from them and still get 21-22mpg on the highway. I see nothing that detracts from them other than them being a pain to polish around.
 
I have the Thule Square bars and they did whistle above 60 or so MPH. They make a fairing for it that just snaps on. No special tools required. It completely eliminated the whistle. Problem solved.

Those bars are tough. Easy to get on and off of the truck. I have a tent mounted to them, I can have the whole thing off the truck in less than 5 minutes. Way easieir than removing those OEM bars.
 
[MENTION=112019]Mawgie[/MENTION]
Even if it decreased your efficiency a 1/10 of an mpg (it won't) it will cost you a whopping $17.50 a year. That means it will only take you SEVENTEEN years to pay back your investment of $300 for new cross bars.

Dude....#smh

If you want to do something that will be more cost effective and increase efficiency then have your wife and you go on a diet. If you guys lost 50 lbs together then you more than pay for the loss of crossbar efficiency. Weight is the mpg killer everyone forgets. Good luck.

Thanks for the math! I had the same thought, but was just to lazy to crunch the numbers. btw: you forgot to factor in the savings at the grocery store from the diet..... :nerd:
 
I run a Thule crossroads setup with a fairing because the factory bars just sit too close to the roof for anything practical like a rack or snowboard racks. Its pretty much silent on the freeway and I haven't noticed any change in mileage compared to the factory crossbars which came on the car.
 
Thanks to all who posted helpful replies. Most appreciated. I have removed the OEM bars and parted ways with them. They ran quiet, and I doubt there is much of a hit in fuel mileage, but the design of an quick to attach/detach set of cross bars will meet my occasional use needs better.

I haven't ordered the new ones yet, but soon will, and will post up an informational thread so anyone interested can check 'em out. Thanks.
 

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