OEM steel bumper patching
- Thread starter Majindan
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Majindan
New member
I'll take some later today, and I don't know anyone with a welder. Been watching for a salvage bumper for a few weeks.
IBallEngineer
New member
Bondo is not designed for filling holes.
Bondo does not adhere to rust.
Bondo is VERY easy to sand.
Bondo does not adhere to rust.
Bondo is VERY easy to sand.
Majindan
New member
Actually all I truly need is the passenger side part of the rear bumper assembly. Are the bumpers fairly easy to take off? I want to grind the rust off the inside, treat it, then put a few coats of enamel on the inside, bedliner on the outside.
Thanks guys
Scramble
New member
Yea. It's only a couple of bolts. Depending on rust it's pretty easy. Use wd40 the night before you take it off. POR15 the inside & you're golden.
Nervo19
Member
"Are the bumpers fairly easy to take off?"
I tend to need things explained like I'm 5. I just looked for photos and can't find any. You open the rear hatch and use a putty knife or trim tool to pry the plastic stomp pad off the top of the bumper. If the clips are difficult to remove you can crush them from underneath. They are plastic. You'll then see several bolts. If you have rust I'd spray some Kroil or Liquid Wrench on them. The bolts are a 1.25 pitch but I can't remember the exact size. I had to order new ones and the dealer charged about $12 for about eight of them. You can certainly take one to Tractor Supply and get them cheaper. They will break easily so it's good to replace them. If you plan to repair the bumper I would use the Bondo that has fiberglass in it. Regular Bondo should not ever be more than a dime's thickness or it will crack. Derust and paint the rear of your bumper. I got a chrome replacement off eBay with free shipping and undercoated the back of it. I did this four years ago and the bumper is still fine and rust free. This is the bumper I got. It's $84.94 with free shipping:
5210535360 TO1102228 Rear New Step Bumper Face Bar Chrome for Toyota 4Runner | eBay
Here's the part you said you need $50.42 shipped:
Bumper Face Bar End New Chrome Rear Right Hand Passenger Side RH TO1105103 | eBay
Now I need a chrome rear bumper for a 1st gen and they don't make them any more.
I tend to need things explained like I'm 5. I just looked for photos and can't find any. You open the rear hatch and use a putty knife or trim tool to pry the plastic stomp pad off the top of the bumper. If the clips are difficult to remove you can crush them from underneath. They are plastic. You'll then see several bolts. If you have rust I'd spray some Kroil or Liquid Wrench on them. The bolts are a 1.25 pitch but I can't remember the exact size. I had to order new ones and the dealer charged about $12 for about eight of them. You can certainly take one to Tractor Supply and get them cheaper. They will break easily so it's good to replace them. If you plan to repair the bumper I would use the Bondo that has fiberglass in it. Regular Bondo should not ever be more than a dime's thickness or it will crack. Derust and paint the rear of your bumper. I got a chrome replacement off eBay with free shipping and undercoated the back of it. I did this four years ago and the bumper is still fine and rust free. This is the bumper I got. It's $84.94 with free shipping:
5210535360 TO1102228 Rear New Step Bumper Face Bar Chrome for Toyota 4Runner | eBay
Here's the part you said you need $50.42 shipped:
Bumper Face Bar End New Chrome Rear Right Hand Passenger Side RH TO1105103 | eBay
Now I need a chrome rear bumper for a 1st gen and they don't make them any more.
Nervo19
Member
I could swear I saw a new thread the other day by a member with only 9 posts. You might want to experiment. We were all new once.
MtnT4R
New member
There is a 99% chance your questions have been answered before. Read through the stickys in the 3rd gen section, and use the search bar at the top of the page or the link in BrianSD42's signature.
Thanks, yeah I have read through a ton stickys and searched a bunch. Kind of looking at what is the best year model to buy or at least the pros and cons of the 2002 versus previous years. I found a nice 2002 4WD model and wanted to know if a previous year model was better for a basic Texas hunting rig that may have to later do work in the UP of Michigan (own land up there). Yes I read about a 99 E-Locker but those are probably not going to be found easily. Also wondering is having the 2002 auto trans that bad versus say a 2000 with manual 5 speed. I won't be a rock crawler....not rocks around the gulf coast of Texas.
Ranchdog
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MtnT4R
New member
From what I've read, a good rule of thumb is the later the year in the generation, the better the design and reliability( first model of a generation typically has a few kinks that need to be worked out). I have an '02, mostly because its what I could find in good condition in CO because these things are hard to find around here. But an '02 has ABS(doesn't work great and more than a few people have disabled it) and a few more electronics and doodads than the late 90's models.
I would kill for a 5 speed, but the auto trans has proven to be very reliable- a few guys on here are wheeling 3rd gens into the 400k mile range and up, many of them with all original drive train.
The holy grail of 3rd gens would be the '99 Highlander. E-locker, taller coils, etc. But they are pretty rare, and you could easily upgrade that '02 you found with a little lift, lockers, tires, maybe gears, etc. There are so many aftermarket parts for 3rd gens you could go in a bunch of different directions.
Age wise, they're all 15+ years old, so you need to be careful about rust and other typical age related problems. EVERY 3rd gen you look at will need a new suspension sooner rather than later, and ones that haven't been cared for can have dangerously rusted through frames, rusted body work, rotted exhaust, brittle wiring, the list goes on.
My suggestion would be to take a set of coveralls with you when you go check them out so you can crawl around under the truck and look at everything. Check the frame, exhaust, driveline, look for leaks, check the CV boots and tie rods, sway bar links, etc etc. Many are still in excellent shape, but a lot of them have a rotten core that will require a lot of work, and people that dont crawl around to check them out will end up with a project they didnt want.
Just my opinion, but offroading is quite a bit easier with an automatic transmission. I wheeled a couple 5 speed trucks for years, and it can get pretty hairy on steep inclines. You have to learn some fancy footwork to feather the clutch and brake to keep from rolling out of control down steep sections, and God help you if you have to stop for some reason on a tall climb with a bad dropoff(lotta thousand foot drops in the Rockies).
For a basic hunting rig, ANY 3rd gen 4wd in good shape will fit the bill. They are more capable stock than pretty much any newer SUV or truck, and have fewer complicated electronics and components that are likely to break on the trail.
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Nervo19
Member
If I were buying a 3rd gen I'd be looking for a 2002. My 2000 still regularly makes three hour highway trips with just over 200k miles. I really consider the 3rd gen the most perfect vehicle ever made for me. The seats are perfect compared to how the 2008 and 2016 Tacoma's seats fit me. It has fewer electronic gizmos and I'd be happy with fewer. I wish I could still buy one brand new. For the purposes you have I think an automatic is just fine.
