OEM Trailer Hitch Install

[seoulstice]

Did a search but couldn't find any definitive info on what parts I need to install this thing. Acquired an OEM Trailer Hitch and was wondering what kind of hardware I need[ie. size, pitch, grade, torque specs, etc.] Or does Toyota offer the hardware and would it be cheap enough to be an option?

 

[RAB]

Did a search but couldn't find any definitive info on what parts I need to install this thing. Acquired an OEM Trailer Hitch and was wondering what kind of hardware I need[ie. size, pitch, grade, torque specs, etc.] Or does Toyota offer the hardware and would it be cheap enough to be an option?

The thread pitch is 1.25
The bolt size is 12mm
Length is dependent on tow hook that you may or may not decide to install. I used 45mm for the 4 bolt on the tow hooks and the stock bolts for the other 4.

 

[IanB]

Factory hardware for the 4 bolts closest to the center of the truck was plates that slide into the frame rail, with nuts tack welded to them to keep them in place so you can get the bolts started. I had a buddy make me some when I installed mine, pretty hard to do it without a setup like this.

 

[T5RUNNER]

Hi all, first post! And yes, an old thread. But since I found a solution, I thought it was worth sharing.

As said above, the factory hitch uses a nut plate inside the frame rail. If you bought a used one there is a 99% chance that this was not included. The rear bolts are already on your truck, holding the tow loops in place. If you need to replace them, they are M12x1.25x40. For the front bolts you will need:

4 1/2"x1.5" carriage bolts
4 1/2" nuts
4 1/2" washers

4 spacer blocks (small steel bars with square cut outs for the bolts to drop into, they stop the bolts from spinning and spread the load) etrailer part# RP3022

1 1/2" fish wire (long piece of wire with a spiral end that grips the bolt threads) etrailer part# 80101-1

Here's how it works. Apparently this is a common way to install hitches, but I had never seen it before. I got all of the parts from etrailer.com for about $25. The hitch was $50 from the local already-pulled-it-for-you-yard. Don't forget the flip mod!

 

[la79]

Hi all, first post! And yes, an old thread. But since I found a solution, I thought it was worth sharing.

As said above, the factory hitch uses a nut plate inside the frame rail. If you bought a used one there is a 99% chance that this was not included. The rear bolts are already on your truck, holding the tow loops in place. If you need to replace them, they are M12x1.25x40. For the front bolts you will need:

4 1/2"x1.5" carriage bolts
4 1/2" nuts
4 1/2" washers

4 spacer blocks (small steel bars with square cut outs for the bolts to drop into, they stop the bolts from spinning and spread the load) etrailer part# RP3022

1 1/2" fish wire (long piece of wire with a spiral end that grips the bolt threads) etrailer part# 80101-1

Here's how it works. Apparently this is a common way to install hitches, but I had never seen it before. I got all of the parts from etrailer.com for about $25. The hitch was $50 from the local already-pulled-it-for-you-yard. Don't forget the flip mod!

Hey quick question I'm installing an OEM trailer hitch and wanted to know where you got this hardware?

4 1/2"x1.5" carriage bolts
4 1/2" nuts
4 1/2" washers

Is there any thread size, grade or finish?

 

[T5RUNNER]

Hey quick question I'm installing an OEM trailer hitch and wanted to know where you got this hardware?

4 1/2"x1.5" carriage bolts
4 1/2" nuts
4 1/2" washers

Is there any thread size, grade or finish?

Like I said in the post, I got it all from the same place. I'm sure you could get it from any hardware store. It was just normal course thread zinc I think.

 

[7echo]

Hey quick question I'm installing an OEM trailer hitch and wanted to know where you got this hardware?

4 1/2"x1.5" carriage bolts
4 1/2" nuts
4 1/2" washers

Is there any thread size, grade or finish?

One thing to consider since you are in Maryland-
Put some anti-seize on the hardware.

 

[la79]

Thanks! Appreciate the advice.

 

[I_bRAD]

Am I the only one that just replaced the carriers with regular nuts? There's enough room to get your fingers in there to get them started (with the stock bumper at least) and once they start to bite you can tighten them down just fine without the carrier.

 

[kolelt]

Factory hardware for the 4 bolts closest to the center of the truck was plates that slide into the frame rail, with nuts tack welded to them to keep them in place so you can get the bolts started. I had a buddy make me some when I installed mine, pretty hard to do it without a setup like this.

Does anyone sell them as replacement

 

[TheDurk]

Am I the only one that just replaced the carriers with regular nuts? There's enough room to get your fingers in there to get them started (with the stock bumper at least) and once they start to bite you can tighten them down just fine without the carrier.

I did. I had a long shaft box wrench and I duct taped the nut into the wrench with a piece of tape over the top of the box end. Then I placed the box end on top of the bolt thread and wrenched her home. I hope I never have to get it off.

 

[I_bRAD]

I did. I had a long shaft box wrench and I duct taped the nut into the wrench with a piece of tape over the top of the box end. Then I placed the box end on top of the bolt thread and wrenched her home. I hope I never have to get it off.

Apparently I have long fingers! If I ever have to get it off, I figure it will come off the same way the first one did- with an angle grinder (or I could just use a box wrench like you did)

 

[T5RUNNER]

Am I the only one that just replaced the carriers with regular nuts? There's enough room to get your fingers in there to get them started (with the stock bumper at least) and once they start to bite you can tighten them down just fine without the carrier.

You are definitely the only one with two foot long fingers, and unless you are very lucky you can not torque a bolt without securing the nut somehow. I hope you didn't only use the two small rear bolts.

 

[I_bRAD]

You are definitely the only one with two foot long fingers, and unless you are very lucky you can not torque a bolt without securing the nut somehow. I hope you didn't only use the two small rear bolts.

I only used 1 bolt/side and they were only 1/4" so I just used successively bigger washers on them so they didn't pull through the hole. I pull my 12000 lb trailer full of prized race horses all the time with it and it's been fine.

Seriously though, it was last summer when I did it. Perhaps I'm not remembering something correctly. I will look at it tonight and give you the real story. Either way, if you can hold the nut until it's tight you can torque it down just fine. The friction between the nut and the frame only increases as the bolt gets tighter.

Edit: OK, I remember now. Aftermarket hitch, came with new carriers. The weld nuts were toast and THAT is what I replaced with standard nuts after I removed the ones that didn't break off. I was able to reach those and start them with my fingers.

https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/13157/installsheet/CM_13157_INS.PDF

 

[T5RUNNER]

I pull my 12000 lb trailer full of prized race horses all the time with it and it's been fine.

I think you are lost, this is a 4Runner forum.