Official 3rd gen 4Runners on 35's Pic Thread

[Romeo1]

- What wheels are you running? Method 312’s (0/4.75 17x8.5)
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? No
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315/70/17 cooper STT pro’s
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? No JBA’s
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? 1” Bora spacers
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? 1” Toytec
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Auto, 5.29 gears Air locker front/E-locker rear

Scarab windshield kit. Tubbed for the tires then installed 1” body lift so hopefully won’t have to do much if I ever go to 37’s. Removed coilovers and bump stops to check clearance at full bump/lock.

@%1;

How do you like the Syclone? I’m in the dust a lot and I’m seriously thinking about putting one of those on just to extend out air filter life. I’m very familiar with all the other brands of pre-cleaners out there from the agriculture world, I’ve just never physically been around a Syclone before.

How does it feel on 5.29s and 35 inch tires? Can it still cruise on the interstate ok or does it have a feeling of top out at a certain speed? I only ask because I do long trips sometimes to go wheeling. I need it to do a minimum of 65, preferably 70 to follow the truck and camper.

Thanks!

 

[T4topher]

@%1;

How do you like the Syclone? I’m in the dust a lot and I’m seriously thinking about putting one of those on just to extend out air filter life. I’m very familiar with all the other brands of pre-cleaners out there from the agriculture world, I’ve just never physically been around a Syclone before.

How does it feel on 5.29s and 35 inch tires? Can it still cruise on the interstate ok or does it have a feeling of top out at a certain speed? I only ask because I do long trips sometimes to go wheeling. I need it to do a minimum of 65, preferably 70 to follow the truck and camper.

Thanks!

I haven’t really had a chance to put this stuff to the test yet, soon though. I’d say the Sy-Klone is pretty proven, I’ve seen a lot of ppl with them with no complaints (I think even the military uses them according to their website). My speedometer is off like 5-10mph so it’s hard to tell exactly how fast I can go and my pinion angle was off last time I drove it on the freeway so I had vibrations at like 65mph (pinion angle was off because I have dual transfercases) but now I have opt offroad adjustable rear control arms so hoping the vibrations are gone.. Seems like once everything is dialed in 65-70 will be no problem though

 

[Dezert4Runner]

315/70/17 KO2 on Robby Gordon simulated beadlock wheels (17x8 with 4.5 bs). 3.5” JD Fabrication long travel installed, so none of the UCA or frame clearance stuff applies. No body lift, manual with stock 4:10 gears.

 

[octanejunkie]

315/70/17 KO2 on Robby Gordon simulated beadlock wheels (17x8 with 4.5 bs). 3.5” JD Fabrication long travel installed, so none of the UCA or frame clearance stuff applies. No body lift, manual with stock 4:10 gears.

Beefy

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[Bad Luck]

315/70/17 KO2 on Robby Gordon simulated beadlock wheels (17x8 with 4.5 bs). 3.5” JD Fabrication long travel installed, so none of the UCA or frame clearance stuff applies. No body lift, manual with stock 4:10 gears.

Looks aggressive! How does it drive with 35’s and 4.10’s?

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Looks aggressive! How does it drive with 35’s and 4.10’s?

Not too bad with a manual, but definitely can feel the additional power loss over 285/75/17, which are the next size down. I definitely would be shopping for new gears if I had an automatic. Controlling shift points is a big deal with 35’s.

 

[octanejunkie]

Not too bad with a manual, but definitely can feel the additional power loss over 285/75/17, which are the next size down. I definitely would be shopping for new gears if I had an automatic. Controlling shift points is a big deal with 35’s.

Why not be shopping for gears now? With the additional weight from armor, compounded by larger tires, regearing seems logical even with a manual trans.

I'm already eyeing 4.88s on 33s

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[theesotericone]

Not too bad with a manual, but definitely can feel the additional power loss over 285/75/17, which are the next size down. I definitely would be shopping for new gears if I had an automatic. Controlling shift points is a big deal with 35’s.

BFG's run small and that's also helping you drive it on the stock 4.10 gears. What's the tire measure under the rig? It's doable even in an auto on stock gears but deeper gears make it so much more fun to drive.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Why not be shopping for gears now? With the additional weight from armor, compounded by larger tires, regearing seems logical even with a manual trans.

I'm already eyeing 4.88s on 33s

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BFG's run small and that's also helping you drive it on the stock 4.10 gears. What's the tire measure under the rig? It's doable even in an auto on stock gears but deeper gears make it so much more fun to drive.

I’m for sure re-gearing at some point, just not in a huge hurry with the current drive-ability being what it is. BFG’s running smaller probably helps a little, but unsprung weight and overall diameter are definitely noticeable over what I was running. I’d ideally like to do gears and at least 1 locker all at once, so it’s going to be another large purchase that I have to prepare for as cash allows.

I think I *could* run this setup as-is indefinitely, but I’d like to swap rear axle housing with a Sequoia housing for extra width in the rear and put new gears and an ARB while I’m at it instead of doing so in the stock housing and ditching it later anyways.

 

[Riceye]

Nitro Gear & Axle posted this on fb. Seemed appropriate here.

 

[jman11788]

- What wheels are you running? Level 8 MK6 16x8 -10 bs
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? Yes
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315/75/16 Yokohama Geolander MT
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? No, SPC UCA's
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? No
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? No
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Auto, 4.30's

 

[octanejunkie]

- What wheels are you running? Level 8 MK6 16x8 -10 bs

- Do you rub the frame at full lock? Yes

- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315/75/16 Yokohama Geolander MT

Time for some tubbing

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[octanejunkie]

I’m for sure re-gearing at some point, just not in a huge hurry with the current drive-ability being what it is. BFG’s running smaller probably helps a little, but unsprung weight and overall diameter are definitely noticeable over what I was running. I’d ideally like to do gears and at least 1 locker all at once, so it’s going to be another large purchase that I have to prepare for as cash allows.



I think I *could* run this setup as-is indefinitely, but I’d like to swap rear axle housing with a Sequoia housing for extra width in the rear and put new gears and an ARB while I’m at it instead of doing so in the stock housing and ditching it later anyways.

I just pulled the trigger on 4.88s. Front clamshell from ECGS with a Spartan locker and a complete e-locker rear end from a local member that went aftermarket.

If I decide to go Sequoia in the future I can easily sell an e-locker rear end. No sunk cost in my eyes.

33s are not rubbing yet. 35s may be my next progression

 

[Dezert4Runner]

I just pulled the trigger on 4.88s. Front clamshell from ECGS with a Spartan locker and a complete e-locker rear end from a local member that went aftermarket.

If I decide to go Sequoia in the future I can easily sell an e-locker rear end. No sunk cost in my eyes.

33s are not rubbing yet. 35s may be my next progression

I agree, to an extent, but I have a Freel Good performance WIY rear shock hoop sitting in my garage and I don’t want to cut off the stock lower shock mounts just to turn around and sell down the road. It’ll be a lot harder to find a buyer for it at that point. That’s without gears in the equation. If I source an e-locker axle and spend some time and money making that work, I still ultimately will do a Sequoia or Tundra axle so I’m leaning towards doing it right once and being done with it. Plus the the 4Runner has an 8” ring gear and won’t work with the 8.4” Sequoia housing.

My build is a slow progression while being a daily driver, so that’s a factor too for the time being. I’m looking at the long term since I can deal with it for a year or however long it takes to get the new axle sourced and sorted. I might even link it and notch the frame for coilovers down the road, but at least at that point I’d be keeping the wider axle that’s been regeared (and probably Eaton locked).

 

[dell30rb]

Just curious. How many went to 315's then back to 285's?

Browsing through this thread theres quite a few who show pics of their rigs on 315's a few years ago then their signature reads 285's...

 

[clearock]

 

[Toast]

Joined the club!
4.10s with an auto are not nearly as bad as I thought they would be. I actually gained MPG on the highway, though it likes to hunt for gears a lot more than it already did.
- What wheels are you running? Method MR701 bead grip 17x8.5 +0mm offset
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? Yes
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 35X12.50R17 BF Goodrich KM3 M/T
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? No, JBA UCA's
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? Yes, 12mm
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? No, firewall tubbed
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Auto, 4.10's