Lewis&Clark
New member
My battery wasn’t holding a charge anymore. I was jumping the truck every morning. So I bought a new battery; a Group 27 Marine Deep Cycle from my local O’Reillys. It’s been a crappy couple weeks with family evacuated from California wildfires, in-laws moving in with me, crises left and right at work, homeschooling BS because our public schools are still shut down....it’s been a nightmare. So when my father-in-law and I went to install the battery, neither one of us thought to look carefully at the positive and negative terminals. I pulled out the old battery, put in the new one, and connected it up. There was nothing — no power at all when turning the key, but whether the key was in or not, the only thing the car was doing was making a noise out of the ABS motor. We couldn’t figure it out, and I figured something else was amiss. AAA towed my to a local mechanic, and they spent several hours looking at the electrical system, ABS motors, and other components and couldn’t figure it out. FOrtunately they didn’t charge me for that time. But they finally realized what it was...the battery had reversed terminal posts, so the red cable was going to negative and the black to positive. They pulled it out and put in the previous battery and the car started up again. That battery still has to be replaced, but it starts and runs fine on a jump. Returned the new battery and will find another — but JCI does not make that battery with reversed posts, so I’ll keep looking.
Unfortunately, in the course of this carelessness, I seriously messed up some things. At first we noticed the radio fuse and break fuse were blown, so we replaced those. Then in inspecting and testing the others, we found 9 more fuses, including some of the big ones, that had to be replaced. I had the mechanic replace all 11; reset all the indicators on the dash; and drive the truck around for a while. I picked it up and it was working fine, with the only exception being that the airbag indicator light it still on, and my SoundLinq 3 no longer seems to be connected to the radio as the AUX switch isn’t finding it. That was yesterday afternoon.
About 20 hours later, I started up my truck again. Turned on fine. Airbag light still on. SoundLinq 3 still not working. But the car was running. I realized I still needed to reinitialize the windows, moonroof, and rear window. Done. So auto up and down now work again.
However, once I did that, the rear window wiper turned on by itself and won’t turn off. The rear wiper control will not change the speed, turn it on/off, or spray wiper fluid. It just keeps going unless I have the window slightly down. Reinitializing several more times hasn’t changed anything.
Question 1. How do I stop the wiper movement?
Via some forum searches, I saw a post saying the rear wiper for the 4th gen 4Runners is on the fuse labeled ECU-B in the engine bay. But pulling that fuse did not do anything.
In the driver’s footwell fuse box, there’s a fuse labeled “RR WSH”. Pulling it didn’t stop the wiper either, and neither did pulling the one labeled “TAIL”.
I suppose I could pull open the rear panel on the tailgate and disconnect the motor, but it seems like I should be able to just pull its fuse...right?
For right now I’m driving around with the rear window ever so slightly ajar as the wiper is wired only to work when the window is up, of course.
Question 2. How do I identify and fix the actual problem?
I suppose it’s possible this ordeal has fried the rear wiper relay, or some other part? Like what? Other than paying the mechanic a great deal of money, I’d prefer to try and fix this on my own.
Question 3. Dash indicator lights.
Is there a way to reset the indicator lights or reboot the ECU or something?
Question 4. SoundLinq 3.
They didn’t disassemble the dashboard or pull out the radio, so I can’t imagine how the SoundLinq would be disconnected. It used to be connected to the MD function on the head unit, accessed via the DISC/AUX button. This is a far lower priority than the other problems, but if you have ideas on what may have happened here, I’m all ears.
Unfortunately, in the course of this carelessness, I seriously messed up some things. At first we noticed the radio fuse and break fuse were blown, so we replaced those. Then in inspecting and testing the others, we found 9 more fuses, including some of the big ones, that had to be replaced. I had the mechanic replace all 11; reset all the indicators on the dash; and drive the truck around for a while. I picked it up and it was working fine, with the only exception being that the airbag indicator light it still on, and my SoundLinq 3 no longer seems to be connected to the radio as the AUX switch isn’t finding it. That was yesterday afternoon.
About 20 hours later, I started up my truck again. Turned on fine. Airbag light still on. SoundLinq 3 still not working. But the car was running. I realized I still needed to reinitialize the windows, moonroof, and rear window. Done. So auto up and down now work again.
However, once I did that, the rear window wiper turned on by itself and won’t turn off. The rear wiper control will not change the speed, turn it on/off, or spray wiper fluid. It just keeps going unless I have the window slightly down. Reinitializing several more times hasn’t changed anything.
Question 1. How do I stop the wiper movement?
Via some forum searches, I saw a post saying the rear wiper for the 4th gen 4Runners is on the fuse labeled ECU-B in the engine bay. But pulling that fuse did not do anything.
In the driver’s footwell fuse box, there’s a fuse labeled “RR WSH”. Pulling it didn’t stop the wiper either, and neither did pulling the one labeled “TAIL”.
I suppose I could pull open the rear panel on the tailgate and disconnect the motor, but it seems like I should be able to just pull its fuse...right?
For right now I’m driving around with the rear window ever so slightly ajar as the wiper is wired only to work when the window is up, of course.
Question 2. How do I identify and fix the actual problem?
I suppose it’s possible this ordeal has fried the rear wiper relay, or some other part? Like what? Other than paying the mechanic a great deal of money, I’d prefer to try and fix this on my own.
Question 3. Dash indicator lights.
Is there a way to reset the indicator lights or reboot the ECU or something?
Question 4. SoundLinq 3.
They didn’t disassemble the dashboard or pull out the radio, so I can’t imagine how the SoundLinq would be disconnected. It used to be connected to the MD function on the head unit, accessed via the DISC/AUX button. This is a far lower priority than the other problems, but if you have ideas on what may have happened here, I’m all ears.
