GrantK
New member
Sure they are, just last night I was talking about centistokes with my lady. WOW, did it get her hot!!! :girl:
Oil Change... 0w20? wtf?
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1engineer
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Nope.
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appreciate you bro's lining me out. I just stick with 0w20 lol
Antman
Elite Member
I use those terms all the time:
"seybolt? I'll need a universal to get to it in a few seconds..."
And
"Holy centistokes! That hurt!"
Koz
New member
My post was definitely not referring to you! When I was writing my post your latest post was not on my screen.
Koz
Koz
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I personally feel the Amsoil 0w-30 is the BEST oil on the market, period! (and will work fine in the 4Runner)
The only thing I would add to that is; if you are changing your oil sooner then the recommended 10K miles don't waste your money on Amsoil. Any brand synthetic will be overkill.
Koz
Koz
New member
To answer your question, YES.
Only if you extend your OCI (oil change interval).
From what I have experienced through the years Toyota/Lexus engines have been proven to be very gentle on oil. Believe it or not these engines have shown to be able to run 10K on petro oil and it still provide safe protection (not that I would recommend that). The only way you should extend your OCI is after you have had the oil analyzed at the recommended OCI mileage to verify how much life is left. I have a 3.5 V6 and (now) a 4.6 V8 (as well as other Toyota engine in the past) and both have proved to be able to run over 12K miles on Amsoil 0w-30 or one year.
My last engine (4.7 V8) had the same oil (0w-30 Amsoil) for over 40K miles.
Koz
1engineer
Moderator
At the end of the day synthetic motor oil is just that: Synthetic motor oil. It is base stock with different additive packages. It could be Amsoil, Mobil 1 or Toyota brand (which if truth be known is probably another brand labeled and formulated for Toyota) or any other brand. Sure, Amsoil might have minor differences in Magnesium qty or something but it is what it is: You personally might get a whopping 20% extra between changes but another guy with different driving habits or loads might get better with another brand. You said it right above when talking about analysis. It is engine lubricant. It does not feed the hungry children or cure cancer or make peace in the middle east. You are probably not going to race your 4Runner or enter it in any tractor pulls so peak performance is a non issue. Use the proper type and you will be fine as long as you use any of the well known brands.
KidVermicious
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Koz
New member
I'm surprised you didn't comment about running the same oil for over 40K miles. I install a bypass system to be able run those miles.
You are correct about most oils providing equal protection but technically there are differences in how they are formulated. Example Mobil 1 is not pure synthetic it uses group III in the base stock (petroleum) and Amsoil 0w-30 uses group IV-V in the base stock (100% synthetic). The API allows Mobil (Castrol and others) to call it synthetic. This is one of the reasons it lasts longer.
Koz
1engineer
Moderator
No big deal on the 40K. Filter change is most important. My point is proper viscosity far outweighs brand. Sure there are differences between them. At the end of the day though very few will demand the maximum performance these synthetics provide. Not too many will go 350-400K with the original engine with the original owner. The truth is if you really, REALLY wanted to maximize your engine life you would run a full synthetic 0W-20 product. Group number does not matter. The key would be to have a remote mounted dual cannister filtration system using Pall filter elements. Problem is every time you changed their top of the line elements it would cost you $800.00 haha. You would then not worry about wear but eventual metal fatigue. In the end it is all relative. I like getting new vehicles every 90-100K or so. Life is too short to not enjoy it.
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Koz
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Attached is a link to my install. This was several years ago and this system has been updated and improved since.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/perfo...re/10277-amsoil-full-flow-bypass-install.html
Koz
kingpin748
New member
I resent that statement. I regular feed both my children engine oil and find that they aren't hungry for days after that. And before you get all bent out of shape I don't feed them synthetic, only the real stuff. I also coat myself ever morning in oil and to date have not developed cancer of any sort. Unfortunately I will have to agree with the peace in the middle east comment as that's never going to happen.
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homeyclaus
New member
You'll realize a gas savings of about 20% on account of your wallet being lighter. Bro.
(sorry to pile on, I just could not help it)
Koz
New member
If you run the extended OCI it comes out to be about the same money. Amsoil is only a couple bucks more. If you want the best it will cost a little more!
Koz
Atlanta_man
New member
I might believe living on the Arctic circle could keep a motor from reaching operating temp on some trips but seriously doubt whether Houston or Seattle weather in the summer would result in high motor temperatures where a heavier oil would be better. There's a thermostat and fan after all.
Holy shade tree mechanic myth disinformation batman!
Toyota 0W-20 is one of the BEST oils out there, better even, arguably, than M1 0W-20. It has a VI of over 200!
And I dont care where you are, in the Arctic or in Arizona, your engine oil is not at operating temp right away there is still a cold start period. Toyota has better cold flow properties than M1 until well below 0F. It has a ton of Moly and Zinc as well.
Some of you guys are still looking at oil as if it were the 70's. To hell with 10W-30, and even 5W-30 for the most part. 0W is where its at. They are all 30 at temp so Ill take the oil with the best cold flow properties to protect the best during start up which is the point at which most engine wear occurs!
You guys need to read this then join the 21st century...Motor Oil 101
Toyota 0W-20 is one of the BEST oils out there, better even, arguably, than M1 0W-20. It has a VI of over 200!
And I dont care where you are, in the Arctic or in Arizona, your engine oil is not at operating temp right away there is still a cold start period. Toyota has better cold flow properties than M1 until well below 0F. It has a ton of Moly and Zinc as well.
Some of you guys are still looking at oil as if it were the 70's. To hell with 10W-30, and even 5W-30 for the most part. 0W is where its at. They are all 30 at temp so Ill take the oil with the best cold flow properties to protect the best during start up which is the point at which most engine wear occurs!
You guys need to read this then join the 21st century...Motor Oil 101
I only read the first few posts but 80% of engine breakdown is from a cold start up, something we're very familiar with here in Canada. Synthetic has much better flow characteristics and thus better protection; the additives in the Toyota brand oil are fantastic. And at $5/L for a synthetic, I'm definitely OK with that. Check out BITOG for more information on this Toyota brand oil.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2548178&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2409119&page=1
EDIT:
I see some of you guys were talking about Amsoil. If you're looking at other oils, I would HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend German Castrol 0W30. If it wasn't so expensive, I'd be using it but typically it is $10/L. The TRD filters are ridiculously expensive as it is haha.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2548178&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2409119&page=1
EDIT:
I see some of you guys were talking about Amsoil. If you're looking at other oils, I would HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend German Castrol 0W30. If it wasn't so expensive, I'd be using it but typically it is $10/L. The TRD filters are ridiculously expensive as it is haha.
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