Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!
- Thread starter Antman
- Start date
Antman
Elite Member
Many, MANY discussions on here about that!
Let's keep the debate out of this thread please!
BUT, For what it's worth- I change mine at the recommended 10k intervals.:bluejump:
I change all my vehicle's oil up until I bought this 4Runner.
No way. Too much work.
Dealer charges $69.95 plus tax. I take it in every 6 months (10k miles) and while they go through the painstaking process (not so much for the dealer as everything is hoisted in the air) I sit in an air conditioned lobby thinking of the poor schmucks that actually had more ambition to 'Do it themselves' than I had.
No way. Too much work.
Dealer charges $69.95 plus tax. I take it in every 6 months (10k miles) and while they go through the painstaking process (not so much for the dealer as everything is hoisted in the air) I sit in an air conditioned lobby thinking of the poor schmucks that actually had more ambition to 'Do it themselves' than I had.
eddiebx
New member
I agree, there's absolutely no debate that 10k is proper and 5k is improper :bolt:
:jk: :jk: :jk:
~1500 more miles to go and I finally get to put this handy dandy tutorial to use!
Thanks Jeff!
mace.
New member
I'm sure it's been said before in this thread before but I'm going to mention it again so you don't look like an idiot like I did.
Get a quality oil filter wrench !!!
On the first oil change I performed on the 4Runner, I picked up a cheapo filter wrench from Advance Auto. I believe the the brand was Performance something or other (maybe it was Performance POS.) It worked great the first time, but on the second oil change the metal disc that is welded into the bottom to accept the ratchet broke. It being a Sunday before labor day the only option I had was Advance again as no one else had a filter wrench in stock that fit. This time I purchase two more of the Performance POS wrenches labeled "Toyota."
The second filter wrench fit like a glove on the filter but the square hole for the ratchet was so large that it rounded itself off. The third filter wrench looked promising until I put it one the filter and realized it wouldn't grab it tight and just spun on the filter. After closer inspection I noticed all were stamped 65mm. Even though I thought I had 64mm wrenches I couldn't believe that one barely fit on the filter, one fit well, and one just spun on it seeing as they all should have been the same size.
As a last resort I started hitting up local repair shops and quick lubes. After a couple of stops around town a young kid at Monroe let me rent theirs for $5. I gave the kid a $20 and had it back in a hour.
I promptly ordered a quality one from Amazon for the next time.
Get a quality oil filter wrench !!!
On the first oil change I performed on the 4Runner, I picked up a cheapo filter wrench from Advance Auto. I believe the the brand was Performance something or other (maybe it was Performance POS.) It worked great the first time, but on the second oil change the metal disc that is welded into the bottom to accept the ratchet broke. It being a Sunday before labor day the only option I had was Advance again as no one else had a filter wrench in stock that fit. This time I purchase two more of the Performance POS wrenches labeled "Toyota."
The second filter wrench fit like a glove on the filter but the square hole for the ratchet was so large that it rounded itself off. The third filter wrench looked promising until I put it one the filter and realized it wouldn't grab it tight and just spun on the filter. After closer inspection I noticed all were stamped 65mm. Even though I thought I had 64mm wrenches I couldn't believe that one barely fit on the filter, one fit well, and one just spun on it seeing as they all should have been the same size.
As a last resort I started hitting up local repair shops and quick lubes. After a couple of stops around town a young kid at Monroe let me rent theirs for $5. I gave the kid a $20 and had it back in a hour.
I promptly ordered a quality one from Amazon for the next time.
Just got my new truck. My plan is similar to ^this^ and to "ramp up" the oil change intervals:
#1 @ 2,000 miles
#2 @ 5,000 miles
#3 @ 10,000 miles (Toyota Care)
#4 @ 15,000 miles (my dime or time)
#5 @ 20,000 miles (my dime again, as I will probably be past 24 months of Toyota Care)
Q: Is dealer service really only $70 including synthetic? Has anyone received quotes from any independent mechanics?
I've had experience with two cartridge filters before. I thought that when I sold my Mercedes E320 that those days were behind me. Oh, boy was I wrong! That car also had a belly pan to remove. The BMW E46 also has a cartridge, but the difference is that both of these cartridges are located on top, near front and center!
OT, but some perspective: In terms of time, nothing could be worse than a Porsche 993 (late, air/oil cooled 911). Here are some highlights: break right rear wheel lugs, jack up front of car a bit, put on blocks. Jack up rear of car, put on jack stands. Jack up front of car (again) to put on jack stands. Remove right rear wheel. Remove rocker cover. Peel back rear fender liner. Drain 8 quarts from oil tank. Remove large filter. Slide under car. Remove hose clamps on heater hoses and remove hoses. Drain 2 quarts from engine. Use 8" extension to remove small oil filter. Reverse process. Lower car. Sloooooowly add 8 quarts of oil through special, narrow funnel at a rate of about one quart every 3 minutes. Wipe up oil when you spill from being impatient. Drive car for 1/2 hour. Measure oil level only while idling on a flat surface, then add about another 2 quarts.
Good times! At my best, this was about 2 hours. Suffice it to say, I no longer own this car.
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Sputnik
New member
Love this write up. Every time I forget how much oil or whatnot, I come to this thread.
I have one issue thought, I cannot seem to remove my metal oil drain plug thingy.
When I try to loosen it, the whole filter assembly comes off. Because of this, I haven't Ben changing the drain plug thing.
Any suggestions?
I have one issue thought, I cannot seem to remove my metal oil drain plug thingy.
When I try to loosen it, the whole filter assembly comes off. Because of this, I haven't Ben changing the drain plug thing.
Any suggestions?
Discovered the same problem after I started to change my own oil after the free oil changes thru the 2 year Toyota Care program period expired. The dealership "mechanics" had overtighten the part and I
Had hard time trying to remove it even while holding the filter cover in one hand and socket wrench in other,
so problem solved by bringing it to the dealer and having their mechanic loosen it for me!
Had hard time trying to remove it even while holding the filter cover in one hand and socket wrench in other,
so problem solved by bringing it to the dealer and having their mechanic loosen it for me!
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Slag
New member
Oil change problems - broken oil drain skid cover bolts...
First off, Antman thanks for the great write-up.
I have a 2010 Limited. Since I have owned the vehicle I have done a couple of oil changes, and the dealer the rest. This past weekend I went about doing another and ran into some trouble.
In order of annoyance:
1. The filter drain was seized so that when I tried to remove that, the whole filter cover came off. I have seen some other posts on this here - it would seem that this has been over-tightened. No big deal.
2. The filter retaining clip is missing now. Is this important? I just tightened up my filter cover suitably and crossed my fingers. Does anyone have any advice here? I don't know how critical that part is.
3. Anti-seize was never used on the oil drain skid cover bolts (12mm). Yesterday they were both seized, and I broke both of them - yes I should have got my penetration oil out and let them soak (at least after I broke the first one). Anyhow, now I am left to drill these out and re-tap the welded on bolts. Anyone have a better suggestion?
Thanks in advance.
First off, Antman thanks for the great write-up.
I have a 2010 Limited. Since I have owned the vehicle I have done a couple of oil changes, and the dealer the rest. This past weekend I went about doing another and ran into some trouble.
In order of annoyance:
1. The filter drain was seized so that when I tried to remove that, the whole filter cover came off. I have seen some other posts on this here - it would seem that this has been over-tightened. No big deal.
2. The filter retaining clip is missing now. Is this important? I just tightened up my filter cover suitably and crossed my fingers. Does anyone have any advice here? I don't know how critical that part is.
3. Anti-seize was never used on the oil drain skid cover bolts (12mm). Yesterday they were both seized, and I broke both of them - yes I should have got my penetration oil out and let them soak (at least after I broke the first one). Anyhow, now I am left to drill these out and re-tap the welded on bolts. Anyone have a better suggestion?
Thanks in advance.
1st oil change
My 2013 got up to 5k miles so I decided to get oil changed......local lube place wanted 78 bucks......after reading this thread I decided I would get it done at dealership and just watch how they did it....dealer said they would do it for 59 dollars....a few difference are that they removed 8 bolts and 6 push pins.....they did not remove the skidplate they just let it hang towards the front. They also did not remove the filter cartridge plug they just removed the entire thing and just let the oil drain off the side of the filter...seemed like worth while short cuts to me....they used "bulk" oil out of 55 gallon drum.....well when I went to pay they tried to charge me 75 bucks! When I told them I was quoted 59 bucks they said " that was the bulk oil price and that mine had been filled with quarts.......I was like ummm no I was back there it was filled with bulk.....they said ok and I paid 59......I asked why the difference and they gave me som bs about what the toyota plan would pay for and just didnt make sense....both 0w20 full synthetic toyota oil dont know why it would be different price
My 2013 got up to 5k miles so I decided to get oil changed......local lube place wanted 78 bucks......after reading this thread I decided I would get it done at dealership and just watch how they did it....dealer said they would do it for 59 dollars....a few difference are that they removed 8 bolts and 6 push pins.....they did not remove the skidplate they just let it hang towards the front. They also did not remove the filter cartridge plug they just removed the entire thing and just let the oil drain off the side of the filter...seemed like worth while short cuts to me....they used "bulk" oil out of 55 gallon drum.....well when I went to pay they tried to charge me 75 bucks! When I told them I was quoted 59 bucks they said " that was the bulk oil price and that mine had been filled with quarts.......I was like ummm no I was back there it was filled with bulk.....they said ok and I paid 59......I asked why the difference and they gave me som bs about what the toyota plan would pay for and just didnt make sense....both 0w20 full synthetic toyota oil dont know why it would be different price
Antman
Elite Member
If you try to let the skid hang down in the front, without the truck on a lift, it will hit the ground and not give you access to the filter easily. By taking the entire filter housing off they aren't replacing the O-ring on the drain plug. Toyota supplies a replacement for a reason.
What you call worthwhile shortcuts , I call lazy techs.
eddiebx
New member
+1 on lazy techs. You pay for a factory quality oil change, and you should get one as prescribed by the factory, nothing less.
Another thing to consider is, if you don't drain through the housing's drain plug, you might not be able to empty out as much poop from the bottom of the filter housing. It seems to collect at the very bottom and there's probably nothing like a hot stream of oil to pull out all that gunk from all the nooks and crannies.
I mean of course there are other more invasive measures to thoroughly clean out the housing, but let's be honest, if they are not going to take the time to open one extra drain plug, I really doubt they are going to thoroughly clean out anything for you, lol.
Whiplash Willy
New member
Thats why I decided to decline my free oil changes, and do them myself. I don't like people taking shortcuts on servicing my vehicle. I have heard too many stories of techs screwing up a simple procedure like this.
Antman, thanks for the awesome writeup, I just used it yesterday to do my 10k service! All went well except for the drain plug washer was stuck to the oil pan, which I had to chisel off with a flat head screw driver!
I ended up putting 6.4qts in to get it at the right level. I must have not warmed it up long enough before draining...
That is some serious food for thought right there. I was planning on crossing my fingers fingers when the stealership puts their newest tech on my oil change job. Maybe I'll just DIY like I'll have to do with all of the rest anyway.
After grinding the skid plate pivot points flat and shaping nice round noses with my 4" grinder, I hit them with Rust-Oleum Satin Black (anal, I know)
+1. My factory drain plug gasket seized to the pan, so I had lots of fun trying to scrape it off through the little 3" x 3" drain plug skid plate access hole. I really didn't want to remove and replace that dude if I didn't absolutely have to. The key take away from this is to make sure that your old plug gasket is off before slipping a new one over your drain plug. Double gaskets are no good. They can torque wrong and leak!
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Same exact thing happened to me. My first thought was is it was missing from the factory. To add to the confusion it was the same color as the oil pan. Flat head screw driver also did the trick for me.
I was wondering about the skid plate hitting, so it sounds like I will have to take it off when I start changing my own oil......
Any one have any thoughts on the price difference of the oil.....or is it some bs they try to charge folks more???
the short cuts they took are to speed up the process and I don't think are bad for my vehicle.......
When I asked about removing the plug on the filter they said that it causes more leaks due to being a metal on plastic connection and that it is very easy to over tighten and damage the plastic housing.....they said that is the most common place for leaks........
The oil was not honey colored and was darker but still see through and not black.
The filter element was still pretty clean and I didn't see any shiny metal flakes or any big chunks of anything
The cartridge was also clean on the inside, but in the future it will be a place for gunk to accumulate......I think this will be an issue regardless if the bottom plug is removed or not....we will have to clean very well each time......I will take advantage of all the free oil changes.....but I will be there each time to make sure things are done to my satisfaction.....
Any one have any thoughts on the price difference of the oil.....or is it some bs they try to charge folks more???
the short cuts they took are to speed up the process and I don't think are bad for my vehicle.......
When I asked about removing the plug on the filter they said that it causes more leaks due to being a metal on plastic connection and that it is very easy to over tighten and damage the plastic housing.....they said that is the most common place for leaks........
The oil was not honey colored and was darker but still see through and not black.
The filter element was still pretty clean and I didn't see any shiny metal flakes or any big chunks of anything
The cartridge was also clean on the inside, but in the future it will be a place for gunk to accumulate......I think this will be an issue regardless if the bottom plug is removed or not....we will have to clean very well each time......I will take advantage of all the free oil changes.....but I will be there each time to make sure things are done to my satisfaction.....
Maybe you don't replace the plug gasket each time?
With so many people having to pry and scrape off the drain plug gasket, perhaps it's just supposed to stay there for a few years? I could see how a "semi-permanent" gasket would be helpful if an owner was getting their oil changed at places like Jiffy Lube and Walmart, which are less likely to have to correct gasket.
Can someone confirm this in a real TMC shop manual? I don't have one.
With so many people having to pry and scrape off the drain plug gasket, perhaps it's just supposed to stay there for a few years? I could see how a "semi-permanent" gasket would be helpful if an owner was getting their oil changed at places like Jiffy Lube and Walmart, which are less likely to have to correct gasket.
Can someone confirm this in a real TMC shop manual? I don't have one.
sandcrawler
Senior Member
it's single-use; replace every change. just like your oil filter and the o-rings in the filter sump.
and the thought of letting Jiffy-Lube or Mall-Wart perform oil changes on this vehicle makes my sphincter clench tighter than a stuck drain plug gasket's grip on the oil pan.
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eddiebx
New member
:withstupid:
If you guys take a careful look at a new OEM Toyota drain plug gasket it's not just a plain crush washer; it's actually a crush washer coated with gasket material on both sides...that's why it get stuck after being on there for 10k miles. Because of this gasket coating, it's probably even more imperative you change it every single time to ensure zero leaks down the road
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