Oil Level Reading
- Thread starter alphabeast
- Start date
I have a 2012. Book says 6 qt without filter and 6.6 with filter. Done all my oil changes at 6.5 with filter and never had a problem. The tube splashes so it shows above the full line.
I have over 100K on the car, plan on sticking with 6.5 for the next 250K and then I'll call it a day.
I have over 100K on the car, plan on sticking with 6.5 for the next 250K and then I'll call it a day.
Lester Lugnut
New member
OP - I noticed the same thing with my wifes 2014 4R. After every oil change, having fully warmed up motor in order to get the oil out and refilling with 6.6 qts.; using a dealer filter, the oil level on the stick was always over the FULL mark. Same has happened to our 2006 Avalon. Oddly, my 2015 Tacoma 4.0L is right at the full line using the prescribed amt. of oil.
The dipstick on the 4R was beginning to become hard to remove. I went thru this with a 2010 Charger and broke off the stick. In that case, it wasn't much fun resolving. Wanting to avoid this with the 4R, I went to the dealer and ordered a new oil dipstick.
The old stick was part # 15301-50140.
The new stick is part # 15301-0P060.
Dipstick part numbers are on the stick.
Out of curiosity, I measured both sticks. The new one is 1/2" shorter than the original and my oil level has been right on the FULL mark ever since changing over to the new stick.
The dipstick on the 4R was beginning to become hard to remove. I went thru this with a 2010 Charger and broke off the stick. In that case, it wasn't much fun resolving. Wanting to avoid this with the 4R, I went to the dealer and ordered a new oil dipstick.
The old stick was part # 15301-50140.
The new stick is part # 15301-0P060.
Dipstick part numbers are on the stick.
Out of curiosity, I measured both sticks. The new one is 1/2" shorter than the original and my oil level has been right on the FULL mark ever since changing over to the new stick.
alphabeast
New member
That is interesting... lines up with my theory that the dipstick (old stick) is not to be trusted. Thanks for providing the info!
1000MPH
Senior Member
I finally found this thread again.
After reading Lester Lugnut‘s post I bought a new dipstick (153010P060) as well. It was worth it to satisfy my curiosity at only $13.
As he wrote, it’s a 1/2” shorter. Puts my previously full level at about 5/8ths.
The new dipstick is actually harder to insert and remove so I won’t be using it. At least it’s easier to read.
After reading Lester Lugnut‘s post I bought a new dipstick (153010P060) as well. It was worth it to satisfy my curiosity at only $13.
As he wrote, it’s a 1/2” shorter. Puts my previously full level at about 5/8ths.
The new dipstick is actually harder to insert and remove so I won’t be using it. At least it’s easier to read.
Jivewalker
Member
Been changing mine every 5-7k. New filter and ~6.6 in. I gave up trying to read the lame dipstick a long time ago. If I do decide to check the oil, it becomes a very frustrating event and gives me no confidence. May try to drill some small holes in it instead of the scratch method.
I think the oil capacity in the manual is for a dry engine. When you do the oil change I think pouring in 6 quarts and then filling 2 ounces at a time and checking should be accurate. It probably takes 6.2 -6.4 quarts. There is still oil in your engine stuck all around.
If you let your 4runner sit for days and check I am sure you will find the 6.6 quarts was a slight overfill.
If you let your 4runner sit for days and check I am sure you will find the 6.6 quarts was a slight overfill.
ElectroBoy
Banned
A while ago I checked into the Toyota TIS repair manual for my model year for the oil capacities. The Dry Fill is 7.5 US Qts. A regular drain and fill with filter change is 6.6 US Qts. But that is approximate.
So after a drain, 0.9 Qt is still clinging to the engine interior.
I also use your method to fill it. Add 6 Qts, start engine to circulate then add a little at a time to bring it to the full line.
Jivewalker
Member
I let mine drain a while and do other things. Been putting 6.6 in and filter for years. If I spend the time to analyze the dipstick it's been pretty damn close to the top mark, but I gave up trying to read the stick a long time ago. My theory is that with the new light colored syn oils and being thin, it's made it much harder. Older cars with darker dino oils were easier. If you go for an extended OCI it becomes much easier real quick!
I havent started doing 4runner oil changes yet since dealer took care of it up till 55k miles. As for my audi I've used top side extraction and measure what I take out. I've been doing this for the past 5 years and know how much goes in. There is no dipstick either :shrug: but it does have an oil level indicator on the dash.
I think a good level should be 3/4 mark of the dipstick.Leaving 1/4 slack for the existing oil and oil expansion when the engine is running hot.
I plan on changing my oil soon and I will see what works.
In my experience, 6.5 qts will slightly overfill.
I put 6 qts and a bit over, maybe 0.1 - 0.2qts, then wait until next morning. If you let the engine sit overnight, the oil level will become very easy to read. One side will show the correct oil level - the other side might look messy. The "turn engine off and wait 5 minutes then check the dipstick" doesn't work too well on these engines.
So next morning look at your oil level and add a smidge if you are under the lowest mark, but if you are at the lowest mark or slightly above it, i would leave it there and not worry about it.
I put 6 qts and a bit over, maybe 0.1 - 0.2qts, then wait until next morning. If you let the engine sit overnight, the oil level will become very easy to read. One side will show the correct oil level - the other side might look messy. The "turn engine off and wait 5 minutes then check the dipstick" doesn't work too well on these engines.
So next morning look at your oil level and add a smidge if you are under the lowest mark, but if you are at the lowest mark or slightly above it, i would leave it there and not worry about it.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Huh... this is the second thread on checking your oil I ran across today, weird.
Anyways, I noticed a few people mentioning that they check the oil level after the vehicle has sat for a long while; unfortunately that's not correct.
From the unholy text that is the Owner's Manual itself (this one is from a '19 4Runner, but this applies to basically every Toyota ever made in the last 4-5 decades)
If you're having trouble seeing the oil sheen, I have used a very coarse file or sandpaper in the past to put my own crosshatching in between the Low and High marks. Spraying a little brake clean on the dipstick and wiping it off sometimes helps too. You're just looking for something to catch the oil sheen evenly, where it starts to break apart from a uniform coating is the oil level (for those reading this thread who ever wondered how to check your oil).
I will also throw in my two cents that temperature of the oil is not as critical as making sure you run the engine for at least 10-30seconds to allow the oil passages and oil system to fill up and pressurize. Letting the vehicle sit allows the oil to drain from the upper end back into the pan, Toyota wants you to check the oil level after the vehicle has "primed" itself with oil, not after all the oil has drained out of the passages and such. Now ideally get the vehicle to operating temperature to check it accurately, but I have noticed that despite the thermal expansion (I think it's something like 6% for engine oil? I could totally be off on that, so any fluid engineers feel free to correct me) that if you shoot for the middle or so for the scale that when warmed up it usually gets close to the full mark. Basically if you check the oil cold and you have it in the bottom half of the dipstick you should be pretty close to full when it's hot, this is of course just a quick and dirty way to do it if you're in a rush and can't wait for it to warm up. Toyotas are somewhat forgiving if you're a little under or a little over, most of the time you just get some of that extra oil getting sucked through the PCV system into the intake and burning up, I don't think I've seen a Toyota engine that had foaming issues from being overfilled in a long while and the last one was when we had a guy drain his trans by accident and add a full oil change on top of his already full 4.7L and that thing survived the ordeal fine after we drained and adjusted the oil level.
Post Note-
If the Dipstick is having trouble seating/unseating, check to see if the tube end and O-Ring are dirty/crusty. Most of the time I find the O-Rings get hard and nasty, throw a new one on from an O-Ring kit and give it a light coat of engine oil and it should seat/unseat smoothly!
Anyways, I noticed a few people mentioning that they check the oil level after the vehicle has sat for a long while; unfortunately that's not correct.
From the unholy text that is the Owner's Manual itself (this one is from a '19 4Runner, but this applies to basically every Toyota ever made in the last 4-5 decades)
If you're having trouble seeing the oil sheen, I have used a very coarse file or sandpaper in the past to put my own crosshatching in between the Low and High marks. Spraying a little brake clean on the dipstick and wiping it off sometimes helps too. You're just looking for something to catch the oil sheen evenly, where it starts to break apart from a uniform coating is the oil level (for those reading this thread who ever wondered how to check your oil).
I will also throw in my two cents that temperature of the oil is not as critical as making sure you run the engine for at least 10-30seconds to allow the oil passages and oil system to fill up and pressurize. Letting the vehicle sit allows the oil to drain from the upper end back into the pan, Toyota wants you to check the oil level after the vehicle has "primed" itself with oil, not after all the oil has drained out of the passages and such. Now ideally get the vehicle to operating temperature to check it accurately, but I have noticed that despite the thermal expansion (I think it's something like 6% for engine oil? I could totally be off on that, so any fluid engineers feel free to correct me) that if you shoot for the middle or so for the scale that when warmed up it usually gets close to the full mark. Basically if you check the oil cold and you have it in the bottom half of the dipstick you should be pretty close to full when it's hot, this is of course just a quick and dirty way to do it if you're in a rush and can't wait for it to warm up. Toyotas are somewhat forgiving if you're a little under or a little over, most of the time you just get some of that extra oil getting sucked through the PCV system into the intake and burning up, I don't think I've seen a Toyota engine that had foaming issues from being overfilled in a long while and the last one was when we had a guy drain his trans by accident and add a full oil change on top of his already full 4.7L and that thing survived the ordeal fine after we drained and adjusted the oil level.
Post Note-
If the Dipstick is having trouble seating/unseating, check to see if the tube end and O-Ring are dirty/crusty. Most of the time I find the O-Rings get hard and nasty, throw a new one on from an O-Ring kit and give it a light coat of engine oil and it should seat/unseat smoothly!
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So filling it to the high mark is excessive. Good info. That's why when I used to do oil changes in my 07 4Runner, I would leave it slightly just above the half mark.
Update : I just changed the oil for the first time on my new 4Runner. I used 6 quarts exactly and the oil level is a tad above the half mark. I am going to leave it at that.
I discovered other issues after going underneath like stripped skid plate bolt.Just wanted to add that I replaced the dealer oil (Whatever it was, he says Pennzoil gold which is semi synth) after having driven only 300 miles and the oil was dark but came to a reddish wine color as it thinned out of my drain pain. I used Idemitsu 0W 20 and man what a surprise. Smooth as butter and engine went completely quite! My mileage computer now shows 17.9! Never crossed 17 before in my 48k mileage and have only driven like 30 miles so far.
I struggled to get the skid plate off and it was frustrating. Since only had the vehicle on ramps, the skid plate has to swing all the way down for it to come off. Finally got it out and saw that the hooks were equally bent like an "S". Makes me wonder if the dealer was just swinging them open and pushing them down to get to the oil filter. My hands were dirty with oil, grease and crud that I didn't feel like touching my phone with it to take pics. I will take them when I tap the holes to install the new bolts.
Anyways, have to get a tapping set and new set of bolts and washers for some spare.
After letting the 4runner sit all night I checked the oil this morning and used the paper towel method to get a good read. I filled 6 quarts exactly and I see the oil level is a tad above the half mark. So I am going to stick with 6 quarts. Have one extra quart handy just in case.
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1000MPH
Senior Member
TBH, I’ve seen no real difference in level between, warming and waiting for more than five minutes, and checking it cold the next morning. Maybe 1/16-1/8, I can’t even recall but definitely not 1/4 of the stick.
Once I’ve set the level after an oil change, the only reason I’m checking the oil is to make sure it’s in there and tracking oil loss, if any, there isn’t.
Toyota’s method simply does not work for many of us because the oil creeps up the stick.
Again, my suggestion to pull the stick and wait 5-10 minutes works for me and I recommend you try it if you’re having difficulty. YMMV
Once I’ve set the level after an oil change, the only reason I’m checking the oil is to make sure it’s in there and tracking oil loss, if any, there isn’t.
Toyota’s method simply does not work for many of us because the oil creeps up the stick.
Again, my suggestion to pull the stick and wait 5-10 minutes works for me and I recommend you try it if you’re having difficulty. YMMV
ElectroBoy
Banned
I can vouch for the 1000MPH Method. I’ve tried sanding and scoring and cross-hatching the stick, with no big improvement. I get the best reading by pulling it out for 5-10 minutes to let the oil in the tube drain. Insert stick, pull it out, and tilt it in the light to check for the edge of the oil reflection. Only one side will be clear, the other side will be smeared.
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
This ^^^. Need to look at both sides of the dipstick…. and trust the 6.5 and do’t fret over it.
