Oil Pump Preference for 3.4

Hot oil I have less than 10psi at idle. It looks like 8psi.

Revving the engine gets me 60psi.


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Hot oil I have less than 10psi at idle. It looks like 8psi.

Revving the engine gets me 60psi.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like your oil is within spec and your oil pressure is good. :D. So you can stop worrying now..;)

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Sounds like your oil is within spec and your oil pressure is good. :D. So you can stop worrying now..;)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk



I am going to a 10w30 or a 5w40 to see how it behaves. I also expected around 20psi at idle hot based on past experience.

Every time I rebuilt an engine and didn’t pay the extra to replace cam bearings in a V8 lower oil pressure than expected was always the end result.


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I am going to a 10w30 or a 5w40 to see how it behaves. I also expected around 20psi at idle hot based on past experience.

Every time I rebuilt an engine and didn’t pay the extra to replace cam bearings in a V8 lower oil pressure than expected was always the end result.


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I run 10w-30 full synthetic in my 4 runners. I jumped a grade only because of the old seals. I didn't think pure synthetic would stay in 21 year old seals..:D

I used to run blended oil before. However, I never worried about oil pressure as long as my idiot light stayed out and my valves didn't sound like they were coming through the covers. I figured I was good..:D
 
The hole is approximately .300 diameter, too big for my .340 borescope. A quick trip to amazon and I have a .220 diameter borescope being delivered tomorrow.

Sorry for hijacking this thread a little, but I still don't have a enough posts to start a new thread.

Amazon was a day late with my order, but I did get the endoscope; it's amazing what $35 dollars will get you these days.

I took the following pictures with the endoscope:

endoscope1.jpg


endoscope2.jpg


endoscope3.jpg


endoscope4.jpg


It looks like the q-tip is precariously perched on the edge of the splash shield; does that look right to you?

This leaves some difficult choices:

1) Do I try to take a vacuum with some semi-rigid tubing and hope that I can make the one-in-a-million blind snatch of the q-tip shaft, risking knocking the q-tip into the pan or onto the splash shield?

2) Do I take the cylinder head off and get it from the top, while praying that I don't bump it off the splash shield into the pan during disassembly (or f-up something else)?

3) Do I use the endoscope and push it off the splash shield into the pan and attempt recovery from the pan drain?

What I don't want to do is remove the oil pan, I watched some youtube videos on the process and it looks like it super-sucks.
 
You won’t be able to see with a vac hose.

I think your only choice is to knock it into the pan. And then hope it floats to the deep part when you drain it.

Once in the pan as long as you can keep it off the splash shield you should be able to put the camera up the drain hole and find it and drag it over to the drain hole.

If it got stuck on the splash shield I think I’d just jack up the back of the rig to slope the engine forward and then dump oil down the head drain holes and try to wash it to the sump of the pan.
You might try that rather than dragging it with the camera.
You should be able to wash it into the bottom of the sump at the front of the pan and then use a hook or needle nose to pull it out the drain hole.
 
Thanks for your reply, I have enough posts now that I started a dedicated thread. I'm thinking sending it into the pan might be the easiest option. Of course I'm only guessing that it is sitting on the splash shield, I'm hoping someone can confirm that for me. Please reply on my new thread if you can offer additional help.
 

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