Oil recommendation?

[JeffMerr]

I recently purchased an 06 2WD 4runner with 84k. I searched through the oil threads and determined it was best to run 5w-30 full synthetic. When i went to walmart yesterday I didn't realize there were so many different types of Mobile 1 5w-30. There was regular full synthetic, high mileage full synthetic, European full synthetic, and some other green bottled one. Should I go with the high mileage synthetic or just stick with the regular synthetic? What would be the difference? Thanks

 

[LTDSC]

Id wait until over 100k to switch to high mileage. I have no idea if there really is a difference but i use it and im just barely over 100k.

 

[MikeInNH]

I've always thought the high-mileage oil is gimmick. I've never used it. Even on vehicles with well over 300k and even 400k miles.

Stick with ANY oil that meets Toyota's oil specs. Which is pretty much every single oil on the market (synthetic and non-synthetic).

Brand name doesn't mean that much. Just make sure you change the oil according to spec and use the recommended viscosity (5w-30 is what's recommended) - and you'll be fine.

 

[flyneco22]

I've always thought the high-mileage oil is gimmick. I've never used it. Even on vehicles with well over 300k and even 400k miles.

Stick with ANY oil that meets Toyota's oil specs. Which is pretty much every single oil on the market (synthetic and non-synthetic).

Brand name doesn't mean that much. Just make sure you change the oil according to spec and use the recommended viscosity (5w-30 is what's recommended) - and you'll be fine.

true story IMHO....I've been on the AMSOIL kick since i switched from MOBIL1. Little pricey (9$+ a quart) and sometimes difficult to find but it's done its job for 5k mile intervals on a turbo SRT4 with 2x stock hp.:bounce:

 

[chitown40]

You can either take the advice above including using what is spec'd in the owner's manual,

OR

You can go here and over-analyze and micro-scrutinize oil all the way down to the molecular level.

Ok, seriously, the above site has some great info, but just put in good quality 5W-30 oil meeting factory specs. Sale prices should have more affect on your choice than brand name. Oil is already over-priced for what it is and how long it lasts.

 

[Tooltime19]

I have always used Mobile1 in all my vehicles. Motor Oil, Diff fluid, wheel bearing grease ect. As noted above, with today's technology, It would be hard to find a bad full synthetic. I would stick with a known brand. You can always find "better" high end synthetics if you have the need.
I do use the High Mileage Mobile-1 in all my rigs, and have been for a long time. If you look at the specs and compare to the other series of Mobile-1 on back of the bottle, it states the High Mileage works better in high heat conditions. For me here in the hot dusty dry Southwest, the High Heat protection is something I need. Marketing or not, I use that blend. The price is the same.
I have noticed a slight drop in oil temp on my SRT8 Charger.
I also use this in my T4 & my 02 Sport Trac prerunner.
just my .02 Good Luck

 

[lehiguy]

You can either take the advice above including using what is spec'd in the owner's manual,

OR

You can go here and over-analyze and micro-scrutinize oil all the way down to the molecular level.

Ok, seriously, the above site has some great info, but just put in good quality 5W-30 oil meeting factory specs. Sale prices should have more affect on your choice than brand name. Oil is already over-priced for what it is and how long it lasts.

This is true. How the engine's lubrication system is engineered has far more to do with longevity than the oil. If you were to push 700HP then oil might become more critical. Synthetic is probably overkill, although that's what I use. Gear boxes are a good place to save some fuel by using synthetic to reduce drag. It is far less viscous in the cold than standard gear lube.

 

[ebg18t]

Yep. There are a ton of good synthetic oils. I have been using the Penzoil platinum or ultra (which ever is on sale) from WalMart with OEM filters. I have sent a few samples into Blackstone for testing and always received good numbers from this oil on this truck. I should go with a longer oil change interval like Blackstone suggested, but I still replace between 5-6k miles.

I stopped using Mobil 1 when they changed the formula some years back. It is still excellent oil, but didn't like how they changed the formula (cheaper formula) and kept the price the same or increased it in some markets. Just didn't sit well with me.

 

[M16A4]

High mileage isn't needed, I bought my 4runner with 124k and switched it to synthetic (Pennzoil Ultra). Can't go wrong with any oil these days as long you keep it changed.

 

[Gecko123]

I've always thought the high-mileage oil is gimmick. I've never used it. Even on vehicles with well over 300k and even 400k miles.

Stick with ANY oil that meets Toyota's oil specs. Which is pretty much every single oil on the market (synthetic and non-synthetic).

Brand name doesn't mean that much. Just make sure you change the oil according to spec and use the recommended viscosity (5w-30 is what's recommended) - and you'll be fine.

I agree. Even if it is not a gimmick, how does one define what is high mileage. Even if you can define high mileage, mileage is not the only indication of the engine's condition. You can have a 150K mile engine in better shape than a 100K mile engine.

Key is changing the oil REGULARLY!!! I tend to stick with the old standard which is changing the oil every 5000 KM (3000 miles). I know newer cars you can go longer but I am just use to this old standard. I use regular dino oil, good enough for me.

 

[MikeInNH]

Key is changing the oil REGULARLY!!! I tend to stick with the old standard which is changing the oil every 5000 KM (3000 miles). I know newer cars you can go longer but I am just use to this old standard. I use regular dino oil, good enough for me.

I agree 100% with that. I do use synthetic. Mainly because I do a lot of towing in the summer (pulling our pop-up). And the cold winters - especially when we go to the white mountains for skiing. I've woke up to many mornings to -20. Synthetic oil is much better for extreme cold weather.

 

[Tooltime19]

I always tell my customers to keep with the factory suggestions regarding the oil weight and viscosity. None of my rigs are over 80k. Yet again, due to the added high heat protection, I use the high mileage product. Im not loyal to any single brand really. It just so happens that I fell into Mobile-1 one day and have been there for a while. Before that, I was using Valvoline.
I too change my oils at 5k no matter what. Just one of those ocd things. Plus, it gets all kinds of hot around vegas in the summer times.

 

[SierraDan]

As far as engine oil I like to use the European spec synthetic, i've read American oil isn't what Europeans consider synthetic. A true synthetic is made from Group 1V (or higher) base stocks and quite often are referred to as European formulations. i.e Castrol 0W-30, made in Germany, and available at your local Walmart. Other examples of true synthetics are Amsoil Signature Series and Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil. Any Group 1V or higher is good to use.

As for transmissions and gears, I like Royal Purple, which gives it less rolling resistance and less wear.

 

[JBecker]

Ah oil threads, what could go wrong? lol

Call me cheap, but I use a Purolator filter and Supertech (Walmart house brand) 5W-30 conventional oil. I change it every 3,000 miles which translates to about every 5-6 months for me, I don't drive much anymore.

My last oil change cost me just under $20. :car:

 

[Dylan]

I just bought my '04 V8 and did the first oil change since I've had it at about 142K miles. I went with about 6 quarts of Mobil 1 5w-30, full synthetic high mileage.

 

[MikeInNH]

What I always find amusing...are the people that spend all the extra money on very exotic oil...and then sell buy a new vehicle every 4 years.

 

[Tooltime19]

Its people who want to take a little extra care of their rigs. Don't forget, four wheeling is hard on stuff. Plus if one uses their rig like me for example, well then the rig needs a little extra love in order to keep them running and dependable way out there. When we do sell them to an unsuspecting soul, we can have integrity in telling them we have taken care of our vehicle and not tossed in just any ol oil nor followed the maint program in the book. Im not saying you do not. Please don't get the wrong impression.. I tell my customers long as they follow the Maint book to a T, things are usually in good shape and probably a good bargain. I offer my customers three oil change options when they come to me. Not everyone needs or can afford full synthetic. I do what is best for my customer within his or her budget at the end of the day. Good service is what its all about.

 

[Tooltime19]

This is true. How the engine's lubrication system is engineered has far more to do with longevity than the oil. If you were to push 700HP then oil might become more critical. Synthetic is probably overkill, although that's what I use. Gear boxes are a good place to save some fuel by using synthetic to reduce drag. It is far less viscous in the cold than standard gear lube.

This is the best thing I have ever read!!!! This kills me. LMFAO!!!! The oil is the life blood of any mechanical moving part, no matter the engineering. Engineering don't meanchit without quality lubricants.....If synthetics are overkill, then why are they standard in my of todays motors.
:lmao::lmao::rofl:

 

[Top Shelf Synthetics]

Amsoil oil hands down. Love only changing oil once a year

 

[lifesaver71]

Mobil 1 EP, liquid gold

I have used Mobil 1 EP for years with a 13-15k mile OCI. Never a mechanical issue other than the failure of the head gasket in my 2005 4 runner due to poor design on Toyota's part.

Engine shop that did the head gasket @ 180k miles said my engine was spotless on the inside. Told me to keep doing whatever it is I have been doing.

Used oil analysis reports elsewhere on the web back up this interval. Quality vehicle, quality oil, all is well. Shorter intervals are fine if you want to run cheap dino oil or some such. If you are going to pay for better oil, run it for the interval intended. Otherwise, it is just throwing money out the window. Run the cheap stuff and change it more often. Either way, maintaining the vehicle is the key.