OME+Bilstein 5100 question

[AARONR]

The Moog ball joints are a good choice. I recommend those over any other aftermarket ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. If the ball joints are already installed, it will save you a ton of headache if you do not have the correct ball joints press tool. The uniball upper arms will be stronger and beefier, but can produce more noise after rain or off road use. Just keep WD-40 with you and apply when needed. My vote is for uniball arms.

 

[Rocket61]

The Moog ball joints are a good choice. I recommend those over any other aftermarket ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. If the ball joints are already installed, it will save you a ton of headache if you do not have the correct ball joints press tool. The uniball upper arms will be stronger and beefier, but can produce more noise after rain or off road use. Just keep WD-40 with you and apply when needed. My vote is for uniball arms.

Not to be an ass here but the absolute last thing you want to put on a uniball is WD-40. That goes for both stainless and chrome. Several stories and photos out there of uniballs pitting and rusting after a petrol based lubricant is applied (such as WD-40). Uniballs technically do not need to be lubed but if you're frequently running through mud or salt, you can apply a dry synthetic lube. Plenty options out there but again, do not use WD-40.

 

[preacher35]

Beware, these have been known to break.

Really? You had a set break on you? How many miles did you have on them? Anyone else have a set of LR UCA's break on them?

 

[Rocket61]

Really? You had a set break on you? How many miles did you have on them? Anyone else have a set of LR UCA's break on them?

I haven't ran LC UCAs personally because I read about problems other guys had with them. Few examples:

Broken Light Racing UCA - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

Light Racing UCA Bushing Failure - Photo - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

and I believe there's a thread out there where the weld between the tube broke off the piece that holds the bushing.

 

[Rancid13]

One thing to keep in mind is v6 and v8 4runners come with different springs on the front from the factory. That affects lift height when you swap to something like the OMEs. Generally the 884s lift the V6 3", and the 885s lift the V8 3". Put 885s on the V6 with stock bumpers and you get 3.5"+.

So I'm definitely putting the Bilsteins on the bottom setting for now... Question for you Ark... if I end up higher in the front, can I trim my rear daystar spacers and add those to the OME springs to bring it back to level or even a slight rake which I prefer?

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

So I'm definitely putting the Bilsteins on the bottom setting for now... Question for you Ark... if I end up higher in the front, can I trim my rear daystar spacers and add those to the OME springs to bring it back to level or even a slight rake which I prefer?

I've never tried it, but due to the shape of the spacer I'm not sure that you can trim it and it still fit. You can always order a custom spacer from Cornfed in any size you want. It's more expensive, but will be an option to consider.

 

[Rancid13]

I've never tried it, but due to the shape of the spacer I'm not sure that you can trim it and it still fit. You can always order a custom spacer from Cornfed in any size you want. It's more expensive, but will be an option to consider.

I'm starting to wonder if I should've gotten the 884's for the front... I guess it's no big deal I can always add spacers in the rear.
Wheeler's site says the 885's lift the v8 2", so I figured the v6 would be a little more but not 3.5+ like you said you think it will yield.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I'm starting to wonder if I should've gotten the 884's for the front... I guess it's no big deal I can always add spacers in the rear.
Wheeler's site says the 885's lift the v8 2", so I figured the v6 would be a little more but not 3.5+ like you said you think it will yield.

I ran 885's on my 03 v8 4x4, and they lifted slightly over 3". I've seen similar reports from other members, so not sure how they came up with 2" lift.

Also, I just noticed you have the 895's for the back. If you are stock weight, they will be very stiff (~45% stiffer than stock). I prefer something like Toytec Superflex, Icon, or All Pro coils (all 10%-20% stiffer than stock) for the rear of a stock weight vehicle.

 

[Rancid13]

I ran 885's on my 03 v8 4x4, and they lifted slightly over 3". I've seen similar reports from other members, so not sure how they came up with 2" lift.

Also, I just noticed you have the 895's for the back. If you are stock weight, they will be very stiff (~45% stiffer than stock). I prefer something like Toytec Superflex, Icon, or All Pro coils (all 10%-20% stiffer than stock) for the rear of a stock weight vehicle.

Anyone else with experience with a v6 and 895's in the rear with no added weight? Really second guessing both spring purchases at this point. I don't want it to ride like a dump truck but I've had pickups in the past and if that's the kind of "stiffness" that we are talking about I think that's tolerable... Just don't want to be rattling teeth out of the wife's head

 

[Rocket61]

Anyone else with experience with a v6 and 895's in the rear with no added weight? Really second guessing both spring purchases at this point. I don't want it to ride like a dump truck but I've had pickups in the past and if that's the kind of "stiffness" that we are talking about I think that's tolerable... Just don't want to be rattling teeth out of the wife's head

I'm running 885/895. The rear is noticeably stiffer than stock. I'm still getting used to it but I may switch to a softer spring in the near future. I have about 100lbs of audio equipment in the back so can't comment on how they'd feel with an empty trunk. As for the front, I think the 5100/885 setup for a v6 without a bumper is a perfect combo. It's a smooth ride and I have the option to add a battery or a bumper down the road.

 

[Rancid13]

I'm running 885/895. The rear is noticeably stiffer than stock. I'm still getting used to it but I may switch to a softer spring in the near future. I have about 100lbs of audio equipment in the back so can't comment on how they'd feel with an empty trunk. As for the front, I think the 5100/885 setup for a v6 without a bumper is a perfect combo. It's a smooth ride and I have the option to add a battery or a bumper down the road.

Got any side pics of what the lift looks like with that setup?

I can get used to a stiffer ride, like I said just dont want to be riding in a dump truck. I guess the rear is pretty easy to swap out if I can't take it later on... and springs arent crazy expensive so thats cool. I was more so worried about the front so thank you for the help on that.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

The only difference between the 884s and 885s is height. They are the same spring rate, so you shouldn't see a noticeable difference in ride quality. As long as you are okay with the lift height and can get alignment into spec, no reason to swap the front.

 

[Rocket61]

Got any side pics of what the lift looks like with that setup?

I can get used to a stiffer ride, like I said just dont want to be riding in a dump truck. I guess the rear is pretty easy to swap out if I can't take it later on... and springs arent crazy expensive so thats cool. I was more so worried about the front so thank you for the help on that.

Like I said, check out my build thread. Before/install/after pics are there including measurements.

 

[AARONR]

Not to be an ass here but the absolute last thing you want to put on a uniball is WD-40. That goes for both stainless and chrome. Several stories and photos out there of uniballs pitting and rusting after a petrol based lubricant is applied (such as WD-40). Uniballs technically do not need to be lubed but if you're frequently running through mud or salt, you can apply a dry synthetic lube. Plenty options out there but again, do not use WD-40.

Rocket61, I understand you are not trying to be an ass, but please provide accurate information. I spoke with Steve @ FK bearing this morning and he assured me that WD-40 or similar will not effect the PFTE (Teflon) liner. But you are correct in that it can attract road debris and "trap" it, causing excess wear. Maybe I should have included the step of using your compressor to blow out the uni balls after wards. Uni ball bearings will rust over time and are not impervious to wear and tear.

 

[Rocket61]

Rocket61, I understand you are not trying to be an ass, but please provide accurate information. I spoke with Steve @ FK bearing this morning and he assured me that WD-40 or similar will not effect the PFTE (Teflon) liner. But you are correct in that it can attract road debris and "trap" it, causing excess wear. Maybe I should have included the step of using your compressor to blow out the uni balls after wards. Uni ball bearings will rust over time and are not impervious to wear and tear.

Camburg and Total Chaos both recommend only using a dry teflon lube on uni-balls. I haven't spoked to anyone at Desert Products directly. Kind of weird how those co's and FK (1 of 2 uni-ball suppliers for those arms, for anyone wondering) have different views on this.

My point was that WD-40 was not made for uni-balls, bearings, or any moving parts really. Quick history bit, it stands for "water displacement 40" and was created to displace water and prevent rust in missile silos because they house a lot of moisture. It gained a lot of exposure when employees started to steal it for household use to prevent rust. Note that it was never intended to be used as a grease or lubricant. Most common mistake people make is using it for bearings and rusting locks. Eventually, they will seize right up.

A lot of people considering it to be a quick fix for anything, which is a big mistake. On uni-balls, it will attract a lot of fine road and sand particles and cause the unit to wear out. There are several threads out there not exclusive to uni-balls or even Toyotas that show problems that WD-40 can cause when used on moving metal parts.

If you're about to spend or have spent $500+ on a set of uni-ball UCAs, do yourself and your wallet a favour and take the 10 minute drive to the hardware store to buy a $5 can of dry teflon lubricant.

 

[Rancid13]

After speaking with Dan at Wheeler's offroad and taking into consideration the advice here I stuck with the 885/895 order I made. I should be installing it in a few weeks when I get some time. I'll take before and after pics so people can see what it looked like before with the daystar 1.5/2.5 and after with OME 885/895 and Bilsteins all the way around. I'm stoked! Looking forward to see and feel the change. Oh yeah, I got the front top spacer and rear trim packer to correct the lean too..

 

[Rocket61]

After speaking with Dan at Wheeler's offroad and taking into consideration the advice here I stuck with the 885/895 order I made. I should be installing it in a few weeks when I get some time. I'll take before and after pics so people can see what it looked like before with the daystar 1.5/2.5 and after with OME 885/895 and Bilsteins all the way around. I'm stoked! Looking forward to see and feel the change. Oh yeah, I got the front top spacer and rear trim packer to correct the lean too..

Nice!

What do you mean by rear trim packer? My 895s had the rear level with springs alone.

 

[ebg18t]

Really? You had a set break on you? How many miles did you have on them? Anyone else have a set of LR UCA's break on them?

I had a set of LR UCA's break on my other vehicle. Caused a fair amount of damage. Little to no assistance from LR. Thus I won't run their product now, I preferred to spend extra to get a beefier non-adjustable UCA for my 4Runner.

 

[Rancid13]

Nice!

What do you mean by rear trim packer? My 895s had the rear level with springs alone.

Not sure if yours leaned down on the drivers side before you installed the OME's, but mine does. Its about a 1/2 inch front and rear lower than the passenger side. Dan said install the front top spacer and rear spacer as well. it was only like $7 so I'd rather get it than not. I've read some people install the springs and it's level, others say it still leans... The slight lean drives me nuts!

 

[Rocket61]

Not sure if yours leaned down on the drivers side before you installed the OME's, but mine does. Its about a 1/2 inch front and rear lower than the passenger side. Dan said install the front top spacer and rear spacer as well. it was only like $7 so I'd rather get it than not. I've read some people install the springs and it's level, others say it still leans... The slight lean drives me nuts!

Interesting. He told me that I wouldn't need a rear spacer since the springs are stiff enough to handle the driver and gas tank weight with a spacer. Definitely post your before/after measurements. I'll have a look at my #s this week now that it's had plenty of time to settle.