Only KDSS w/lift need apply

it makes more sense to just read the thread instead of replying to only one post...cant blame him. lol

EDIT: lol I fully missed the perfect level of sarcasm in the post!

Uh no it doesn't, lol, it is easier to quote. Quoting does two things: (BTW OP was on the board two days ago)
1. it notifies the OP that there is a new post.
2. it helps anyone else out that comes upon it without making them spend time looking for what the poster is asking about. They may have an answer. (my case, regretfully I didn't)
 
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Uh no it doesn't, lol, it is easier to quote. Quoting does two things: (BTW OP was on the board two days ago)
1. it notifies the OP that there is a new post.
2. it helps anyone else out that comes upon it without making them spend time looking for what the poster is asking about. They may have an answer. (my case, regretfully I didn't)

yea nvm. thats not what i meant lol
 
Does holding down this button in 2wd until these lights come on, do anything for the ride?
 

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RIP OP.... We need a volunteer to let his memory live on.

KDSS bypass wiring
56257d1326801709-trail-edition-leaning-passenger-side-kdss.jpg


Stock wiring
zbQ4gQQ.png


Sample bypass wiring
MvG72k8.png


Maybe this switch
KysbcXE.png


Stock FO2 connectors (if you don't want to cut anything)
lrGLbmQ.png
 
Relay

Anyone know of a 5 or 6 pole single throw relay that can survive the elements down on the frame?
 
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I really like my stock trail with kdss, ever since I bought it I've been hesitant on doing anything suspension related since I really think the stock suspension is decently smooth at 20mph over bumpy roads. So I'm still doing my research and still trying to figure out if I need an extra 2 inches of clearance.

I do understand the OP concern and ultimately I think it's the suspension setup that has the most effect on the road capabilities and not the kdss

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
I really like my stock trail with kdss, ever since I bought it I've been hesitant on doing anything suspension related since I really think the stock suspension is decently smooth at 20mph over bumpy roads. So I'm still doing my research and still trying to figure out if I need an extra 2 inches of clearance.

I do understand the OP concern and ultimately I think it's the suspension setup that has the most effect on the road capabilities and not the kdss

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

KDSS does have an impact on high speed off road behavior.. it 'communicates' more of the bumps side to side due to the much stiffer/ thicker sway bars (Which also gives the KDSS the lower body roll onroad). KDSS only disengages at low speed 4WD to give you the max articulation

I noticed this regardless of suspension type, and I've offroaded stock shocks (sponges) -> bilstein (digressive) -> KING (progressive)
 
KDSS does have an impact on high speed off road behavior.. it 'communicates' more of the bumps side to side due to the much stiffer/ thicker sway bars (Which also gives the KDSS the lower body roll onroad). KDSS only disengages at low speed 4WD to give you the max articulation

I noticed this regardless of suspension type, and I've offroaded stock shocks (sponges) -> bilstein (digressive) -> KING (progressive)

Yes im aware of how and when the kdss engages but i still dont think a hydraulic sway bar that is ment to hold the vehicle better during TURNS has much effect on how the shocks and springs react to the bumpy roads
Stiffer springs=Stiffer ride am i right?
 
Yes im aware of how and when the kdss engages but i still dont think a hydraulic sway bar that is ment to hold the vehicle better during TURNS has much effect on how the shocks and springs react to the bumpy roads
Stiffer springs=Stiffer ride am i right?

Yes and no..
It's the sway bar effect.. As both KDSS/ non-KDSS have the same shocks and spring rates stock.

Think of it this way: a non-KDSS truck, when running a KDSS sway bar, which is wayy stiffer than non-KDSS, will ride just like a KDSS truck (i.e. stiffer offroad at >20mph + tighter on ccorners). The hydraulic piston holding the sway bar when activated/ locked = stiff as a physical rod connection(i.e. it doesn't 'absorb' anything like a shock would for example)

Here's a good quick read:
Understanding Sway Bar Technology - Tire Review Magazine
 
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Yes and no..
It's the sway bar effect.. As both KDSS/ non-KDSS have the same shocks and spring rates stock.

Think of it this way: a non-KDSS truck, when running a KDSS sway bar, which is wayy stiffer than non-KDSS, will ride just like a KDSS truck (i.e. stiffer offroad at >20mph + tighter on ccorners). The hydraulic piston holding the sway bar when activated/ locked = stiff as a physical rod connection(i.e. it doesn't 'absorb' anything like a shock would for example)

Here's a good quick read:
Understanding Sway Bar Technology - Tire Review Magazine
Great article. Makes sense and kinda makes me think even more about the idea of leaving my suspension stock until I really find the perfect setup!

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
Would be very interested to hear peoples thoughts on this. I am swapping my tires over after work and might just in fact give this a shot and drive it over the weekend...
 
sup, I’m alive :)
Yeah I never messed with it, just sealed up the plugs and never looked back, it runs good and life’s been tooooo busy to do any tinkering lately. :girl:
 
RIP OP.... We need a volunteer to let his memory live on.

KDSS bypass wiring
56257d1326801709-trail-edition-leaning-passenger-side-kdss.jpg


Stock wiring
zbQ4gQQ.png


Sample bypass wiring
MvG72k8.png


Maybe this switch
KysbcXE.png


Stock FO2 connectors (if you don't want to cut anything)
lrGLbmQ.png


So based on this diagram, can I assume that there are only two wires + and a - going into this system before the power gets divided and rerouted six different ways?
 

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