Jetboy
New member
Yeah definitely I’d prefer pcb’s with solid state relays over standard relays.
JetBoy, curious if you have actually done the wiring or just going off some one who did or just going off diagram? I’d prefer to not use those resistors so that kdss light will come on as an indicator rather then using a switch to tell me its deactivated or not. The problem with that is , when you interrupt those circuits , and with out resistors is that the kdss light will come on after you interrupt but will stay on when connecting them again and will not turn off until you cycle your key. I don’t know if the kdss system is open or closed because I didn’t like that test result so I didn’t do the seat of the pants feel by driving until I was able to achieve the same results with the kdss light coming on as when unplugging the system.
What would be the reason for the light to stay on and not go away till you cycle the key?
I finally got my order of plugs. Took about 6 weeks or whatever to ship from China. They got stuck in customs for a long time. I suspect trade/covid issues are causing major delays in most imports. I'll try to give this a try with the resistors when I have some time (that's the biggest issue I have right now - time with no childcare I'm either working or childcare 7 days a week - and we're so the time to do this stuff is really limited until something changes with the covid situation). I'll probably just run the wiring into the cab and then mock up different options with a breadboard and see what happens.
I don't think there's another way to trick the ECU into not putting on the dash light, and I don't think it resets without turning on/off the ignition. I think it sets the code and leaves it on until it restarts the KDSS ecu. But Toyota locks down the code and I'm certainly not enough of a software hacker to crack Toyota's encryption. The only solution I can think of that I'd try is to use the relay to trigger a time delay secondary relay that would then open the circuit to the KDSS ECU for maybe 5 seconds. Since it's an add-on ECU it would restart separately and probably clear the code.
However - with that, I don't know if the temporary disconnect of the KDSS ECU would signal to the CAN bus to set some other code in another place. Just something that would have to try. You wouldn't need to do that at the KDSS ECU. It could be done at the fuse I think. So I'd probably just make up a circuit at tap in using what's called a fuse socket connector. Allows you to easily access a fused circuit in a plug and play type way and disconnect with your aftermarket circuit. A fuse tap can function for this and if it were wired up the right way it could serve both functions of powering the relays for the disconnect and cutting out the KDSS ECU to reset when turned back on.
They look like this - I don't see them used much, but they're handy for some situations like this or when you need to measure current to diagnose something:
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