opnions needed

tor-redneck

tor-redneck

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i have an 85 with a 22re. i had to cut tons of rust out, weld in new steel and bando. then i re rattle canned the new spots. its just a start. id like to make it a rock crawler in the near future. i drive it around on the road some but have 1 problem. it dosnt happen all the time. mabey 3 times a week. when im at low rps (taking off from a stop) some times it bogs down and dosnt want to go. i usally floor it and when the the rpms come up a little it goes like hell. it only dose it during take off. idles and runs great. i have replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and has a new timing chain. i have also ran a couple bottles of fuel injector cleaner through it. any ideas or sugjestions would be appriceated.
 
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Take a peek at your AFM. Make sure it is clean and the vane inside of the AFM isn't sticking intermittently. Also, go through your wire harness and make sure all of your plugs and pics to the plugs are secured and not loose. Whatever your issue is, it seems to be intermittent and since it only happens once in a while while starting from a stop, I would assume it has something to do with your AFM.
 
SV_Dude said:
Take a peek at your AFM. Make sure it is clean and the vane inside of the AFM isn't sticking intermittently. Also, go through your wire harness and make sure all of your plugs and pics to the plugs are secured and not loose. Whatever your issue is, it seems to be intermittent and since it only happens once in a while while starting from a stop, I would assume it has something to do with your AFM.
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I second the afm. Mine did the same thing once. spray some pb blaster or wd-40 on that little paddle on the inside of the sensor, sometimes it'll get stuck.
 
I would use brake cleaner, actually. WD40 and PB Blaster are solvents, not lubricants. They will leave more gunk behind when they evaporate.
 
KidVermicious said:
I would use brake cleaner, actually. WD40 and PB Blaster are solvents, not lubricants. They will leave more gunk behind when they evaporate.
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I thought that WD-40 was a cleaner/greaser? I never use WD-40 on an external part that is exposed to dirt because the lubricant in the WD-40 will attract the dirt. But, using WD-40 on the AFM where all the incoming air is filtered should be fine.
 
Penetrating solvent and water displacer. Think of it like soap. It loosens and gets between particles, makes it easier to move stuck parts, liquifies old lubricant to temporarily restore life to moving parts, that sort of thing. You can use it to clean, but you gotta wipe it off. It doesn't remove anything by itself, and if you let it evaporate in place it leaves residue. Brake cleaner is designed to evaporate completely, so if you think you've got gunk in the afm making it stick, that's what I'd blast it with.
 
ill try some brake cleaner. how ever i stuck my finger in and moved the flapper. it seemed to move ok. however it is intermitent so ill spray it and see what happens. ill keep u informed. thanks for your opnions.
 
If that doesn't work then clean and test your tps. If you're unfamiliar with the tps and how to adjust it, do a quick search. There are dozens of write-ups on them.
 
And iff all else fails, just go to the local Pull-A-Part/Pick-A-Part/ Junkyard for the whole intake+mass airflow sensor+ whatever else you need. I got all that for like $30 and it solved all my problems. And I just put in a $33 cold air intake i got of ebay and it is WAYYY better than the stock airbox and duct system. HIGHLY recommend it.
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i cant beleive how much work it was to get the tps off. damn yotas. ill drive it alot tommarow and see if sputtering goes away. thanks guys.
 
I just take the whole throttle body off to get to the TPS. It's much easier to adjust the TPS when the throttle body is removed. All you gotta do is clamp one coolant line so it doesn't leak all over, remove two coolant lines, a few vacuum lines, one throttle link, one plug and a few pieces of hardware. Too easy... then no hassles getting to the top or putting the feeler gauges in there.

edit: Plus, you can verify that your throttle body is adjusted properly and clean it up a bit while it's out.
 
well i cleaned the paddle and wiggled the tps and ran it on some and i think the stumble has stopped. i am not sure what did it but it seems good. thanks for the help guys. if problem comes back ill awaken this thread. thanks again. :bigok:
 
since u guys were so much help i got a few more questions. my seals r bad in the front end and maken knuckle soup. i see alot of posts sayin what brand people like . whats your opnions? also since i have 250k should i replace the bearings regardless of wear?
 
tor-redneck said:
since u guys were so much help i got a few more questions. my seals r bad in the front end and maken knuckle soup. i see alot of posts sayin what brand people like . whats your opnions? also since i have 250k should i replace the bearings regardless of wear?
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Definitely do the seals and absolutely do the bearings. Get OEM seals too.But I had to press the bearing and race I and out at my buddies machine shop. It kinda sucked puttin it in. Just make sure your diff breather is clean and in working condition. Because if the pressure builds up in the axle,and the breather isn't working, it'll make your seals go quicker.
 
same thing i did. nothing worse than getting water in your rearend without knowing it. it happened to me in a wrangler sport with 37k on it. didnt take 48 hrs for the rearend to explode.
 
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