O'Reilly reman CV axles

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They sell these reman ones made by Cardone for $108 including the core (limited lifetime warranty).

https://www.cardone.com/Products/Pr...el=4Runner&year=1999&info=Front+Left:::4WD:::

NAPA sells the same remans for $159 including core (3 year warranty).

NAPA also sell Cardone new cv axles for $82 ($62 on Amazon but I need it quick).

https://www.cardone.com/Products/Pr...ar=1999&info=Front+Left,+Front+Right:::4WD:::

Are the O'Reilly remans the way to go?

I'm going to reboot my OE axle as a spare so wont get the core fee back.
 
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I have used the new Oreilys ones since 2010. No complaints other than the boots aren't great and usually tear after 3 to 4 years. Lifetime warranty, and it looks like I will.need a new pair by the end of the year.

If you wheel hard, go Napa.
 
They sell these reman ones made by Cardone for $108 including the core (limited lifetime warranty).

https://www.cardone.com/Products/Pr...el=4Runner&year=1999&info=Front+Left:::4WD:::

NAPA sells the same remans for $159 including core (3 year warranty).

NAPA also sell Cardone new cv axles for $82 ($62 on Amazon but I need it quick).

https://www.cardone.com/Products/Pr...ar=1999&info=Front+Left,+Front+Right:::4WD:::

Are the O'Reilly remans the way to go?

I'm going to reboot my OE axle as a spare so wont get the core fee back.

I went with the new Napa Max-Drives, lifetime warranty & no cores so I could keep my OEM's.
 
I got the NAPA new one for $70 after a discount. It looks pretty nice, it has the same inboard housing as OE with the notches to help tap it in and out.
 
Well how about this option. Do the same thing and reboot your OEM axles and then go to a PickNPull or other auto wrecker and pull another OEM set off another 3rd Gen and reboot those as well. Now you'll have an OEM set as a back-up. OEM reboot kits run around $100. Can't remember what a PickNPull wants for a set of CV axles but it's probably no more than $50.

This is what i plan on doing. I just rebooted the OEM CVs on my 98 yesterday utilizing a boot stretch mod to keep the inner boot ribs from rubbing together which will ultimately cause the boots to tear very prematurely. When some 3rd Gens arrive at one of the local PickNPulls in my area, I'm going to jam over there and see if I can pull an OEM set off one of them. Some might wonder how you can tell if the CVs are original or aftermarket. Well, you can tell by the style of clamp. Toyota uses a fairly unique inner boot clamp so if you see that style clamp, the CVs are original.
 
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You're going to have $20 after everyone gives their $0.02 on this. Some people have luck with aftermarket driveline parts, some don't.

I went NAPA a three years ago and now I regret it. The boot is starting to rip so I get to do the job again. I'll go OEM this round.
 
I went with OEM through Camelback. The way I figured it, the original ones lasted 18 years and 190k miles before the boot split, the unit itself was solid otherwise (no clicking, binding, etc) and probably could have driven on a split boot for months. I also have had a lift for 8 years and 60k miles.

Also, I didn't want to reboot because of the mess, it wasn't worth my time or hassle, as others have pointed out here.

The one piece of advice, no matter which route you go, is change the seals too. I had to do the job twice because I didn't realize that the seals should be replaced and I got a leak. It's been like 5k miles since though and that front end is dry and solid. For 150/side I'd seriously just go with OEM. Even without a lifetime warranty, let's say this OEM one "only" lasts another 18 years before it splits.. I won't care. I'll be retired and laying on a beach somewhere :fishing:, I can let my kid take care of it then!
 
I went with OEM through Camelback. The way I figured it, the original ones lasted 18 years and 190k miles before the boot split, the unit itself was solid otherwise (no clicking, binding, etc) and probably could have driven on a split boot for months. I also have had a lift for 8 years and 60k miles.

Also, I didn't want to reboot because of the mess, it wasn't worth my time or hassle, as others have pointed out here.

The one piece of advice, no matter which route you go, is change the seals too. I had to do the job twice because I didn't realize that the seals should be replaced and I got a leak. It's been like 5k miles since though and that front end is dry and solid. For 150/side I'd seriously just go with OEM. Even without a lifetime warranty, let's say this OEM one "only" lasts another 18 years before it splits.. I won't care. I'll be retired and laying on a beach somewhere :fishing:, I can let my kid take care of it then!

Heh, I'm retired, and while I do spend lots of time on the beach, I'm the one on my back fixing my kids' cars. They don't have the time, tools, or knowhow.
 

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