Original plugs in 2008 4Runner (110,000 miles)

[JackDuggan]

I bought my 4Runner in December and I've been slowly replacing things. First priority was the brakes, then the suspension. It seemed to start and run very well so I wasn't concerned about the motor, but yesterday I decided to pull one of the plugs while I was changing the oil. It looked pretty worn out so I ordered a new set and put them in today. When I looked at the old ones there were three NGK's and three Densos. Judging by the looks of them I really think they're the original plugs. Pretty amazing that it ran so well. It's a two owner vehicle originally from CA, so overall it's in pretty good shape, but I'm guessing it didn't get a lot of maintenance.

 

[Bumbo]

I have heard of this before… a mix of DENSO and NGK plugs. Based on what I have heard your plugs are most certainly original off the factory floor, and long overdue for a change.

 

[eleven14]

Yup, that's how they were outfitted on the manufacturing floor, definitely the original plugs. I've never changed mine (2008 w/ 115k, bought with 35k on it) but I need to add them to the list.

What'd you replace with?

 

[Bumbo]

From my own research and reading I decided not to get adventurous and deviate from the maintenance manual.

I went with the Denso plugs.

 

[hinmo24t]

[MENTION=144483]Bumbo[/MENTION]

truck ive had for a year and a half now has 145k miles. i dont see history of plugs changed. truck runs like a top. no issues idling or anything and i am very cautious about fixing problems that dont exist. getting them out, torqueing them in, etc. etc. to fix or prevent nothing noticeable im skeptical of...

for example my dip stick had rusted shut or it doesnt give me reliable readings. i can remove it but i dont get a good reading on oil level. so i change my oil with proper amount of fluid and it doesnt show any signs of weakness ever instead of me
digging out old crusty oil level dipstick guide etc and potentially making things worse...im wondering how risky it is for me to change the spark plugs on my v6. thing runs so damn good right now haha.

its a toyota

 

[Bumbo]

[MENTION=144483]Bumbo[/MENTION]

truck ive had for a year and a half now has 145k miles. i dont see history of plugs changed. truck runs like a top. no issues idling or anything and i am very cautious about fixing problems that dont exist. getting them out, torqueing them in, etc. etc. to fix or prevent nothing noticeable im skeptical of...

for example my dip stick had rusted shut or it doesnt give me reliable readings. i can remove it but i dont get a good reading on oil level. so i change my oil with proper amount of fluid and it doesnt show any signs of weakness ever instead of me
digging out old crusty oil level dipstick guide etc and potentially making things worse...im wondering how risky it is for me to change the spark plugs on my v6. thing runs so damn good right now haha.

its a toyota

My 4Runner was running just fine as well at the time too, but my plugs in the photo are pretty worn out and due for replacement.

I think without pulling a plug and inspecting it you can’t really get a good gauge on health. I figure just because it works, doesn’t always mean its running optimally. If you are having issues with it running, perhaps it’s gone way too far, and I don’t want to use that as a yard stick for replacement.

Plus, the spark plug job on the V6 is very easy. It was my first time changing plugs and had no problems at all. Everything was pretty accessible and straight forward.

It helps to have the right tools. This thing with an extension made it go very smooth.

GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive 6 Point 5/8" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket 6" - 80546
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014ZVSVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[hinmo24t]

My 4Runner was running just fine as well at the time too, but my plugs in the photo are pretty worn out and due for replacement.

I think without pulling a plug and inspecting it you can’t really get a good gauge on health. I figure just because it works, doesn’t always mean its running optimally. If you are having issues with it running, perhaps it’s gone way too far, and I don’t want to use that as a yard stick for replacement.

Plus, the spark plug job on the V6 is very easy. It was my first time changing plugs and had no problems at all. Everything was pretty accessible and straight forward.

It helps to have the right tools. This thing with an extension made it go very smooth.

GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive 6 Point 5/8" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket 6" - 80546
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014ZVSVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

dont you have to torque each one of them to like 30 lbs?

thanks for the info too...

 

[JackDuggan]

Yup, that's how they were outfitted on the manufacturing floor, definitely the original plugs. I've never changed mine (2008 w/ 115k, bought with 35k on it) but I need to add them to the list.

What'd you replace with?

I saw about a lot of recommendations, and I was tempted to just go with the original equipment, but I ended up going with Denso Iridiums IKH20's. "Iridium Power!" is what it says on the package. Not expecting any power increase, but they were only about twice as much as copper and hopefully they'll last longer.

It was about a medium PITA to change the driver's side. The passenger side was easy. The only problem I ran into was that the originals had this black sticky stuff on the threads, maybe oil, although I don't see any valve cover gasket leaks. When I put the new ones in they seemed to go in harder than I expected. I've seen the hand tight and then a 1/4-1/2 turn, but if I did that these wouldn't be seated so I turned them down further than that, worrying all the time about the aluminum head. I think the gunk was in the thread and that made them turn for a while with at not hard, but not soft effort.

I didn't really notice any change in how the engine runs so as worn out as they looked, the old ones were still working pretty well.

 

[CJFONNER]

With new plugs that use a crushing washer, after finger tight you’ll need to go a couple turns further to crush that washer. Once the washer flattens out, THEN finish it off with a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

That’s probably what you felt. No cause for concern.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bumbo]

dont you have to torque each one of them to like 30 lbs?

thanks for the info too...

I did to whatever it said in the service manual, but that's only because I already had some torque wrenches so I figured why not.

That said, its pretty easy to tell when to stop, as soon as the crush washer crushes, there isn't much more to turn. It's pretty obvious when to stop.

If you do decide to get one for the smaller stuff make sure you get one in the in-lbs range, Precision Instruments has been treating me quite well. They are an OEM for Snap-On less the markup.

 

[hinmo24t]

I did to whatever it said in the service manual, but that's only because I already had some torque wrenches so I figured why not.

That said, its pretty easy to tell when to stop, as soon as the crush washer crushes, there isn't much more to turn. It's pretty obvious when to stop.

If you do decide to get one for the smaller stuff make sure you get one in the in-lbs range, Precision Instruments has been treating me quite well. They are an OEM for Snap-On less the markup.

Those tools look nice.

I have a harbor freight torque wrench lol. I remember back 10 - 15 years ago using a torque wrench that was old-school and prob inaccurate of my dad's for wheel lugs.