OTRE: Does this look right?

[flyinbrick]

So I just did both outer tie rod ends. OTRE's are Toyota OEM, lower ball joints were previously installed by a shop using a NAPA part (don't know which one but my guess is Altrom Ultra-8 by the photos online). When I torqued down the new OTRE's onto the LBJ's at the FSM spec of 67 Ft-LB, the castle nut went so far down the threads that the head of the cotter pin is ABOVE the grooves of the nut. Did I pull the OTRE too far through? There doesn't seem to be any binding that I could tell.

 

[moneypit]

If it were me...

Don't know if I would trust that cotter key. Assuming the correct parts are installed, throw a small stack of washers under the nut so the key is moved downward into the castellation.

 

[flyinbrick]

Don't know if I would trust that cotter key. Assuming the correct parts are installed, throw a small stack of washers under the nut so the key is moved downward into the castellation.

OTRE's are from Toyota and LBJ's look like the right part. I noticed the connecting flange has a strange shape to it while others are a solid and thicker piece. Here's another photo of it.

Good suggestion on the washers. Planning on doing that today.

 

[t4r4life]

That is not correct, you shouldn't be able to tq it that deep.

 

[chuck norris]

What did the old TRE look like before you removed it from the LBJ? Same or normal?

And I assume you used factory torque specs (67 ft lb), even though it would be damn hard to stretch the TRE or the LBJ.

Another thought is the part could just be out of spec... it would only take a mm or two error on the tapered shaft to cause this.

 

[flyinbrick]

What did the old TRE look like before you removed it from the LBJ? Same or normal?

And I assume you used factory torque specs (67 ft lb), even though it would be damn hard to stretch the TRE or the LBJ.

Another thought is the part could just be out of spec... it would only take a mm or two error on the tapered shaft to cause this.

When I loosened the castle nut, it was not on very tight and the OTRE did not require much pressing to get out and didn't look fully seated. It looks like the mechanic who re-installed the old OTRE's onto the (at the time) new NAPA LJB's just tightened until the hole was positioned in the middle of the castle nut slots. It anything, it might be the LBJ holes that are out of spec. Torque was maybe 40 Ft-lb while seating the shaft.

Here is a another shot of it with the wheels straight ahead. Perhaps someone can compare with their own truck how compressed the boot is? I've got a 2.5" lift so the angle might be greater than stock. Also, I noticed the thickness of the LBJ "arm" looks thinner than OEM one shown here so maybe its thinness is the factor? It measures 18mm from the bottom of the arm to the bottom of the castle nut. The nut is too far down by around 4mm, so maybe the OEM LBJ arm thickness is around 22mm? Anyone able to confirm this? Could I have damaged the OTRE seat?

... Holding off until I can get more info from more experienced wrenchers ...

 

[downpour11]

Here's a pic of mine (don't mind the blown bushing)

Have you tried loosening it up a full turn to where the hole should be in relation to the castle nut? Your's almost looks too tight, from how much the bushing is compressed. FWIW I didn't torque mine to spec.

 

[flyinbrick]

Thanks, Downpour. Hmmm, very tempted to push the tapered shaft back a bit to the right position and re-tighten with a new cotter pin but I'm afraid I might have deformed the shaft and cause a looser fit. I might do it anyway tomorrow - worst that can happen I guess is buy two new OTRE's if it doesn't fit tight anymore. Keep having visions of TRE falling apart driving down the highway ...

So I took a look at the old OTRE and nut and it looks like I tightened the nut to where there are no more threads.

 

[flyinbrick]

Took it apart today and found that I ripped the seal and its spewing grease (photo 1). I took the old OTRE and pushed it BY HAND through the LBJ hole and there was so much thread showing that the castle nut would already be too low (photo 2). So, either the OTRE taper rod is too thin or the LBJ hold is too large.

Next, I went to Napa and had them take out a NAPA Altrom LBJ (supposedly OES for Toyota OEM). I brought the old OTRE along - lo and behold, the Altrom LBJ hole is smaller and looks like a good fit. Maybe I enlarged the LBJ hole when the torqued down the OTRE. But I recall it was loose to begin with. I also noticed the Altrom was much beefier than my unit. Hmmm ...

So ... it looks like I will be getting new OTRE's from ToyotaPartsZone as well as and LBJ's. The takeaway from this? 1) Stick with OEM parts unless non-OEM parts are well-documented (i.e. shocks/springs, brake upgrade, etc.). Most of us are weekend wrenchers and I've wasted far too much time dicking around and trying to figure things out rather than paying a bit more to get things done and actually enjoy my rig. 2) Don't blindly torque down castle nuts like I did. Keep an eye for where the cotter pin hole is. As a result, I wasted 2 new OTRE's, the cost of the cheapo LBJ's, shop labor cost, as well as my own time.

Thanks everyone who chimed in to help out.