Our '87 4R SR5 Honduras Coffee/Missions Rig Build...

Moving rear window switch and cleaning everything up for the Tuffy center console.
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Hey man!

The mud flaps arrived safe and sound. Now to get the time to install them.

Thanks again, and keep on building.

:usa2:
 
They're called Jelly Bean connectors. They are for small gauge wire and filled with electrical gel.

And mostly used for telephone/low-volt wiring installations for home/office use. Not really made for vehicles afaik, but as long as there's not a lot of amperage in the wiring, they should be just fine. At least you'll never get corrosion at the ends for another 40 years!!!
 
And mostly used for telephone/low-volt wiring installations for home/office use. Not really made for vehicles afaik, but as long as there's not a lot of amperage in the wiring, they should be just fine. At least you'll never get corrosion at the ends for another 40 years!!!


You had me thinking so I looked up what is low voltage and constantly got this:
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Considering I'm only running 12volts and not amping it I should be fine.
 
Its not really so much the voltage that's run through those connectors, but more the current. You could run a thousand volts through those connectors for years without an issue if the current was 0.001A, but try running 12 volts through one at around 30 amps and you'll notice that thing literally melt down after a very short period of time (ie., minutes).

I'm assuming you used it on the power wires (the yellow and red wires from that Pioneer), those are the only ones that I'd be worrying about (I assume you used a ring connector for the ground wire and connected to the metal frame in the dash, or that would be the return line for the power).

Playing the deck over the years with 7-10 amps through that connector "might" overheat and break down, but really only time will tell if it is an issue.

I would say to use either a good butt or pigtail crimp connector on the power wires, as they really are what should be used. The speakers would be okay with the other connectors, as its really not carrying much amperage and its not a constant, steady flow of current, but being that you're gonna take this vehicle out of the country and put it through some serious use, I'd over-engineer everything, including those connectors for the power wires.

Just my 0.02 though! At least you didn't twist and tape 'em up! :thumb3:
 
Wow! Half a day to install this thing! It's done though and easily removable if needed. It's a little further back than I thought. I also used some floor hardware and bolts from the old Toyota.
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In need of the switch or whole assembly for the over head light. Have one?
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Be aware that the later ones that look nearly identical from the outside but have a pivoting switch instead of a sliding switch do not fit, unless you want to grind out your roof a bit.

You can still buy a brand new Toyota slider switch light, but it will come in black and you'll have to paint it. SEM made the correct paint color (the exact one is buried in my build thread somewhere), but it's discontinued. My local Carquest still had like 10 cans in stock.

Or you can wait and find a used one on eBay.

I bought one from Toyota, then decided I didn't really want to paint it, and bought a used one on eBay instead.
 

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