LittleCaesar
New member
The optimal working coolant temp range should be 188-195F.
Is it OK on the highway but overheats in traffic or going slowly off road? If so, you want to check your fan clutch. We had a bunch go bad on here last summer.
Hey DurkIs it OK on the highway but overheats in traffic or going slowly off road? If so, you want to check your fan clutch. We had a bunch go bad on here last summer.
if the fan clutch is the issue would the fan still be running when i am idle? cause the fan runs fine when i am idling. apologies if this is an ignorant question but I know little of engine goings ons.
i am having this issue described in this old thread and trying to find out what it is.
thanks for any help,
mike
Hey Durk
So what are you saying here, with a dead FC, the fan spins more slowly than it normally would?
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They can fail in two ways. They can lock up full-time and waste gas and rob power. Or fail to lock up when they should and spin weakly, causing the engine to overheat in stopped/slow traffic or slow offroading. My engine almost exploded in the line to the Lincoln Tunnel a few summers ago, but it was fine when I turned around and got back up to speed.
From his last post, though, sounds like his is working. The famous newspaper test can remove all doubt. If the engine is fully hot, and you can stop the fan with a rolled-up newspaper at idle, it's bad. Be careful, obviously.
Ok cool. So the fan spins on its own because of the connection to the water pump pulley/etc, right? But then the fan clutch connects and makes it spin even faster as it detects a warmer engine environment?
I replaced my fan clutch (and the fan) recently and now the engine is running a whopping 2 degrees cooler!![]()
Close. When things are cool it declutches and spins slower but it still spins. As things heat up, a spiral thermospring closes a valve which engages the clutch making it spin faster up to the point where it locks up to the pulley that drives it.
Thank you sir!
Sounds like without a working fan clutch, the existing 'spin' mechanism between the fan and the water pump pulley is not that useful.
To me, if it was useful, you wouldn't overheat at idle/traffic when FC is dead![]()
The fan clutch dies a death and ends up either locked or unlocked as [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] said. If the former happens your engine stays cool but your 4runner is constantly roaring and your gas mileage is abysmal and that is putting it mildly. If is dies unlocked the 4runner has the potential to overheat quickly since the coolant in the radiator isn't being cooled as well (lack of airflow) as when the fan clutch is working.
Today in the world of crappy aftermarket parts I have seen many fan clutches dead out of the box, even from big name brands such as Hayden and Four Seasons. I replaced a fan clutch for a neighbor's kid on his Dodge truck this past Sunday and it took us four trips to the parts store to get one that worked correctly. If a fan clutch dies in the 4runner, buy Aisin.
Here's a video related to this subject:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WzhlACxqeqQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Well done Tim.
My coolant temps pretty much mirror your's exactly. Normally sits around 190 but if I'm stopped with the AC on it climbs up to 194/196 or maybe even higher if its real hot out.
My radiator is 2 years old (Denso)
Radiator cap is OEM and 2 years old
I did a complete coolant flush two weeks ago (5 flush total), OEM coolant diluted to 50/50 with distilled water
Brand new OEM thermostat/gasket
My fan clutch is original and worked exactly like yours
I was thinking of buying a new fan clutch but after seeing your video, I doubt it will change anything. Some guys on here say they never go above 190 degrees even when off roading with the AC on in hot areas. I just don't know how that is possible.
My water pump is the only other variable in this equation. It is due to be changed soon.
For now, it's not that big of deal. It also doesn't usually get that hot here in Wisconsin.
Well done Tim.
My coolant temps pretty much mirror your's exactly. Normally sits around 190 but if I'm stopped with the AC on it climbs up to 194/196 or maybe even higher if its real hot out.
My radiator is 2 years old (Denso)
Radiator cap is OEM and 2 years old
I did a complete coolant flush two weeks ago (5 flush total), OEM coolant diluted to 50/50 with distilled water
Brand new OEM thermostat/gasket
My fan clutch is original and worked exactly like yours
I was thinking of buying a new fan clutch but after seeing your video, I doubt it will change anything. Some guys on here say they never go above 190 degrees even when off roading with the AC on in hot areas. I just don't know how that is possible.
My water pump is the only other variable in this equation. It is due to be changed soon.
For now, it's not that big of deal. It also doesn't usually get that hot here in Wisconsin.
I wonder if your thermostat is set at 6 or 12 oclock on the jiggle valve. It can make a difference.
Yep, it's in 6pm position. I usually get 188-193F prior to replacing the fan and clutch, now it's 186-191F. Small difference but it was time to replace it after 242K miles and every little bit helps!