tpelletier
New member
radiator fan sucking in air real good.
Overheating !
- Thread starter tpelletier
- Start date
radiator fan sucking in air real good.
Cree
New member
Right. How's the clutch? Do you know how to check that?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Heater never worked? So there's coolant passage issues pre-dating you ever owning it. All the heater system is comprised of is a valve, some tubing and a radiator with a fan behind it. Sounds like your cooling system is in dire need of help from top to bottom.
tpelletier
New member
Negative, but google search says give it a spin and there should be some resistance ?
So youre saying my heater issue could be linked ?
Should I start with replacing the valve ?
making a big ol RockAuto shopping cart right now..
Cooling System : Radiator Hose
Cooling System : Radiator Cap
Cooling System : Thermostat
Cooling System : Thermostat / Thermostat Housing / Water Outlet Seal
Cooling System : Radiator
Heat & Air Conditioning : Heater Valve
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
It could all very much be linked. Any coolant leak, even if not from the engine, will affect coolant fluid pressure and circulation and have a negative affect on cooling ability. It's hard to diagnose something over the internet without seeing your vehicle so I cannot say with any certainty. You did the HG test which came out good so that's a positive, that's the hardest job to do. You can now narrow it down to either a faulty hose, water pump, or heater core as the mystery leak.
Some auto parts stores will let you rent tools, including a coolant system pressure kit. It comprises of a universal fit radiator cap and a hand pump with a pressure gauge. You pump in some air to a set PSI and watch and listen for any leaks. It's not a definitive test as it can still leak when the engine is really hot but not cold when you do the test but it can help and is free.
This is the one I own: Radiator Pressure Tester Kit
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phattyduck
Elite Member
I'd highly suggest an OEM thermostat and OEM radiator cap. And make sure the radiator is a quality one.
-Charlie
DenverAirport
New member
I agree...that said, depending on how many miles are on the parts, there's nothing wrong with being proactive and replacing the radiator / cap / hoses / flush coolant / heater control valve. May not fix the problem but wouldn't be the worst things to replace.
In terms of the truck's heater not working -- flushing the heater core isn't a bad idea either and is easy enough with a garden hose.
I noticed later on that there was a post yesterday after you posted this about heater control valves actually. Here's a good video on the topic:
How To Replace A Heater Control Valve On A Toyota - YouTube
tpelletier
New member
Cree
New member
The color near the base of the strap shows burning coolant. My money would be on a head gasket. No really good way to tell without tear down. You'll see the failure point on the gasket. If you don't, you'll want to get the head fluxed. If your oil is free of water, it's going to be either the head or the gasket MOST LIKELY. Typically if a cylinder cracks you'll get water in the oil.
spartacus
Senior Member
It could be the gasket but usually two adjacent cylinders show weak compression numbers.I could be wrong.
Pour a tea spoon of oil in #2 if you get higher compression then the rings could be the culprit. If the compression numbers don't increase much then it could be burnt exhaust valve, or intake valve due to overheating.
Unfortunately removing the heads and examining would be the only way, IMO.
Pour a tea spoon of oil in #2 if you get higher compression then the rings could be the culprit. If the compression numbers don't increase much then it could be burnt exhaust valve, or intake valve due to overheating.
Unfortunately removing the heads and examining would be the only way, IMO.
tpelletier
New member
Alrighty, Ill check the oil for water and do that oil test.
In the meantime I am ordering a full gasket kit on Rockauto.
Question: If I am opening up the heads, should I might as well replace the problematic head as well ?
Thanks again y'all
spartacus
Senior Member
If the head is flat no cracks it should be good. But getting it skimmed is an option that might be cheaper then buying a new head. I dont know cost wise what would be better. Call machine shops near you that do head resurfacing.
Do a cylinder leak down test on cylinder number 2 with a cold engine and the radiator cap off. It's possible to have a failed head gasket where it fails between the cylinder and a coolant or oil passageway and only affect one cylinder.
19963.4lsr5
New member
The 97 SR5 project was that way. One cylinder with antifreeze pooled in a cylinder.
On a side note….since I bought the 97 knowing it’s engine was toast, I just pulled it and put it on a stand and pushed it into a corner. Big mistake. The antifreeze in the oil pan caused both intake cams to rust before I broke it down to rebuild. It sat almost two years. I won’t do that again.
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