Overland Equipped or PowerTray fuse block plate
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Bumbo
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Look at something like this instead...
Its quality kit, and it includes a negative buss in addition to a fused positive.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5026/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover
I do like the SwitchPRO, but I also like circuits that are easy to diagnose and a system where each circuit is truly independent from each other. Bussman cooper also makes for a nice integrated fuse block with relays.
Maybe I am just a bit old school, but I still like a nice clean row of mechanical mini-toggle switches.
Its quality kit, and it includes a negative buss in addition to a fused positive.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5026/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover
I do like the SwitchPRO, but I also like circuits that are easy to diagnose and a system where each circuit is truly independent from each other. Bussman cooper also makes for a nice integrated fuse block with relays.
Maybe I am just a bit old school, but I still like a nice clean row of mechanical mini-toggle switches.
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Bumbo
New member
Ahh, my mistake. I was not familiar with those products.
I guess its just personal preference, going with the ability to accommodate the components or layout that works best for you.
Its just a laser cut metal plate... id assume overall quality in manufacturing is about the same.
I guess its just personal preference, going with the ability to accommodate the components or layout that works best for you.
Its just a laser cut metal plate... id assume overall quality in manufacturing is about the same.
WanderlostOverland
New member
I know the Power Tray model very well. Does the other come with a "leg" that supports it down to the inner fender on the left of your photos?
daveherrmann
New member
Thanks. I'm going to go with their switch pro version b/c I'll use a switch pro if I ever start adding more lights.
Currently plan is this:
at the battery: Blue Sea 2151 Dual MRBF Terminal Fuse Block
Terminal 1 will have 300a fuse and feed the winch.
Terminal 2 will have 125a fuse and feed to the power tray
On the power tray:
BUSBARS – 4-Post Power Distribution Block for ground
Stinger SPD5623 PRO Series Maxi Fused Power Distribution Block
These will feed an audio amplifier and light bar for now.
I just need to figure out how to simplify the two cable hook up at the - terminal of the battery.
Currently plan is this:
at the battery: Blue Sea 2151 Dual MRBF Terminal Fuse Block
Terminal 1 will have 300a fuse and feed the winch.
Terminal 2 will have 125a fuse and feed to the power tray
On the power tray:
BUSBARS – 4-Post Power Distribution Block for ground
Stinger SPD5623 PRO Series Maxi Fused Power Distribution Block
These will feed an audio amplifier and light bar for now.
I just need to figure out how to simplify the two cable hook up at the - terminal of the battery.
Bumbo
New member
I'm sure you already know about these... but the lug conversion was about the best thing i've done to date when it comes to these types of projects. Everything now just seems more... compatible.
https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Military-Connectors-Positive-Terminal/dp/B00X36RILW?th=1
daveherrmann
New member
Not sure if you are aware, but Maverick at power trays will custom make cables. I have to admit they are of the highest quality and are welding cables. my installer (the people who do all of the NYC police vehicles) were impressed at the quality. the best part is, his prices are more than reasonable, I was shocked how cheap they were
Bumbo
New member
Getting a quality result was a lot easier than I thought when you buy the right tools...
For the price of a crimp tool, TEMCo USA Made welding cable, an assortment of lugs, and adhesive lined heat shrink... you can have the capability to do it all in house.
Just another option I think is worth while if you are a garage / tool guy.
Why not just use one of these if you're going to replace the terminal? That way you don't have to worry about the crimper.
https://www.amazon.com/Cllena-Posit...ds=battery+terminal+connector+for+accessories
https://www.amazon.com/Cllena-Posit...ds=battery+terminal+connector+for+accessories
daveherrmann
New member
absolutely! for me electric scares the crap out of me, so I defer to others
Bumbo
New member
You can, and that style of connector is very common in the car audio world, but it’s just a small set-screw pushing down on some wire.
Compared to a crimped lug, it’s not as electrically or mechanically sound. It will have a higher resistance under load and with enough vibration, can be prone to loosening up over time.
Ives used them for years in my car audio days... only a matter of time until you are chasing down some electrical problem on the trail...
A properly crimped lug gives you a “cold weld”, and is electrically and mechanically very durable.
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Thanks. This is great information to have before I start this project up.
TOUGHasNAILS
New member
I'm sure you already know about these... but the lug conversion was about the best thing i've done to date when it comes to these types of projects. Everything now just seems more... compatible.
https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Military-Connectors-Positive-Terminal/dp/B00X36RILW?th=1
Just wondered what size cable people are running from the battery to the fusebox/breaker. 1AWG or 2AWG?
Bumbo
New member
The factory / OEM cables were 2AWG...
The rest of my system was designed around 4 AWG wire fused at 125 amps.
My maximum system loads are well under the capability of my mains wiring.
Confirmed via camp meter and various load tests pre & post build.
WanderlostOverland
New member
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