I finally got time to install the full OW 2.5" kit and LR UCA's this weekend. Despite a couple of rookie mistakes it was very easy - I'd recommend doing it yourself!
Took me about 7 hours from start to finish being my first suspension work. If I did it again it would probably take 3.5 to 4 hours tops. I didn't take any pics during the install (was focusing on what I was doing) but there are plenty out there from other users. I also forgot about taking before measurements until I already had it on 4 stands :ybrick:. I believe I got a solid 3" in the front and right at 2" in the rear with no CO adjustment.
The front coilover install is pretty much exactly like the OW instructions. My first dumb rookie mistake was to slightly tear the boot on the passenger outer tie rod end ($55 replacement part :bash
. I bought a puller from Sears that has 3 arms instead of two and it doesn't fit. Using a hammer to free the joint is the way to go unless you have a 2-arm puller. I sent Andries a panic e-mail with possibly the dumbest question he's ever gotten before re-attaching the tie rod end, but I'm gonna keep that one to myself 
The passenger UCA is a bit of a pain to install by yourself because the end of the bolt runs into some of the metal lines in the engine compartment - it would really help to have someone guiding the bolt from above. Once you get it lined up it's easy though. The driver's side has no obstructions. The OW tip sheet says to adjust the camber all the way out for the 2.5" kit - that ended up being a little too much for my truck. The tire was visibly tilted out at the top on the driver's side (easily adjusted). I initially set the caster for +3deg but didn't like the way the steering felt so I backed it to the +2deg position. You can adjust the caster and camber while the truck is on the ground. For reference, the adjusting nut is 1.25".
When installing the rear shocks I initially did the top bolts first & tried to line up the lower bolts by jacking up the axle - couldn't get them to line up that way. I ended up putting the lower bolts on first and then raising the axle to push the top bolts through the mounting point. A ratcheting wrench is a must for those top bolts - preferrably one with a flex head.
The rear springs are easy to do. The factory bottle jack helps to lower the axle and get the new ones in. Apart from that the factory jack is a useless POS.
The biggest problem I had was the swaybar relocation - the swaybar is actually in the back of the truck right now. The holes in the bracket didn't line up precisely with the factory holes in the frame so getting the allen-head screws in was VERY hard (not having the 8mm allen-head socket made it worse). I probably should have stopped to make the holes in the bracket a little larger instead of manhandling them in. The second rookie mistake was when I sheared the head off of one of the bolts while re-attaching the swaybar; hence the lack of a swaybar at the moment. When they say torque it to 30lbs they mean it - don't overtighten them! Working with Andries to get a new relocation bracket set now.
I took it to Firestone after the install to get the lifetime alignment and they got everything into the green. I was very impressed with the service at Firestone - 45mins and I was out of there.
I can't brag on Overland Warehouse's excellent customer service enough - Andries called me within 10 mins of my panic e-mail (didn't even make fun of me :biggrin2 and I spoke to him 2 more times during the install. VERY responsive.
Overall impressions:
* The truck looks 100% better with the lift - no more nose-down rake.
* Brake-dive is gone and it handles bumps very well. I drove through a powerline easement for a quick offroad test and it's like having a new truck.
* There is a LOT more body roll after the install - almost to a point where it makes me nervous. I can't say this is an issue with the kit at all - I assume it's a combination of: a) Raising the COG on an already tall truck, b) Being used to XREAS before the lift, c) Going 3" higher and still having the stock 20" bicycle tires, d) not having the front swaybar at the moment, and e) still being stock weight all around. I'm guessing the future addition of sliders/skids/bumpers/etc and getting wider wheels will help the feeling that I'm about to roll over.
A big general thanks to everyone on the forum for their write-ups and pictures; I never would have attempted this myself without having lurked about for months. This is a great place to get information and learn about your truck.
I'll get a pic or two up later today!
Took me about 7 hours from start to finish being my first suspension work. If I did it again it would probably take 3.5 to 4 hours tops. I didn't take any pics during the install (was focusing on what I was doing) but there are plenty out there from other users. I also forgot about taking before measurements until I already had it on 4 stands :ybrick:. I believe I got a solid 3" in the front and right at 2" in the rear with no CO adjustment.
The front coilover install is pretty much exactly like the OW instructions. My first dumb rookie mistake was to slightly tear the boot on the passenger outer tie rod end ($55 replacement part :bash
. I bought a puller from Sears that has 3 arms instead of two and it doesn't fit. Using a hammer to free the joint is the way to go unless you have a 2-arm puller. I sent Andries a panic e-mail with possibly the dumbest question he's ever gotten before re-attaching the tie rod end, but I'm gonna keep that one to myself The passenger UCA is a bit of a pain to install by yourself because the end of the bolt runs into some of the metal lines in the engine compartment - it would really help to have someone guiding the bolt from above. Once you get it lined up it's easy though. The driver's side has no obstructions. The OW tip sheet says to adjust the camber all the way out for the 2.5" kit - that ended up being a little too much for my truck. The tire was visibly tilted out at the top on the driver's side (easily adjusted). I initially set the caster for +3deg but didn't like the way the steering felt so I backed it to the +2deg position. You can adjust the caster and camber while the truck is on the ground. For reference, the adjusting nut is 1.25".
When installing the rear shocks I initially did the top bolts first & tried to line up the lower bolts by jacking up the axle - couldn't get them to line up that way. I ended up putting the lower bolts on first and then raising the axle to push the top bolts through the mounting point. A ratcheting wrench is a must for those top bolts - preferrably one with a flex head.
The rear springs are easy to do. The factory bottle jack helps to lower the axle and get the new ones in. Apart from that the factory jack is a useless POS.
The biggest problem I had was the swaybar relocation - the swaybar is actually in the back of the truck right now. The holes in the bracket didn't line up precisely with the factory holes in the frame so getting the allen-head screws in was VERY hard (not having the 8mm allen-head socket made it worse). I probably should have stopped to make the holes in the bracket a little larger instead of manhandling them in. The second rookie mistake was when I sheared the head off of one of the bolts while re-attaching the swaybar; hence the lack of a swaybar at the moment. When they say torque it to 30lbs they mean it - don't overtighten them! Working with Andries to get a new relocation bracket set now.
I took it to Firestone after the install to get the lifetime alignment and they got everything into the green. I was very impressed with the service at Firestone - 45mins and I was out of there.
I can't brag on Overland Warehouse's excellent customer service enough - Andries called me within 10 mins of my panic e-mail (didn't even make fun of me :biggrin2
and I spoke to him 2 more times during the install. VERY responsive.Overall impressions:
* The truck looks 100% better with the lift - no more nose-down rake.
* Brake-dive is gone and it handles bumps very well. I drove through a powerline easement for a quick offroad test and it's like having a new truck.
* There is a LOT more body roll after the install - almost to a point where it makes me nervous. I can't say this is an issue with the kit at all - I assume it's a combination of: a) Raising the COG on an already tall truck, b) Being used to XREAS before the lift, c) Going 3" higher and still having the stock 20" bicycle tires, d) not having the front swaybar at the moment, and e) still being stock weight all around. I'm guessing the future addition of sliders/skids/bumpers/etc and getting wider wheels will help the feeling that I'm about to roll over.
A big general thanks to everyone on the forum for their write-ups and pictures; I never would have attempted this myself without having lurked about for months. This is a great place to get information and learn about your truck.
I'll get a pic or two up later today!
