Owner input on their Rock Sliders
- Thread starter PCH4R
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Shogun
New member
subd to this thread.
I was looking at the metal techs and see that the OPOR fits on the SR5 w/o removing the trim. Anyone know if this will work on the LE as well or will the Xreas lines get in the way? I don't mind trimming the rocker panel but if I don't have to then that works too.
I was looking at the metal techs and see that the OPOR fits on the SR5 w/o removing the trim. Anyone know if this will work on the LE as well or will the Xreas lines get in the way? I don't mind trimming the rocker panel but if I don't have to then that works too.
Ol'Baditude
New member
Titanpat57
Senior Member
Another option to this thread could be the Slee...a true "step"...nice looking, rugged as hell...and ships by UPS.
Slee - Toyota 4Runner Sliders
I've seen these first hand and they are practical and tough.
I built my own http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/81940-rocky-road-slider-step-mod.html off of the Rocky Road sliders, and regret the day I cut them off...will probably cut new ones and weld them back before spring.
Slee - Toyota 4Runner Sliders
I've seen these first hand and they are practical and tough.
I built my own http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/81940-rocky-road-slider-step-mod.html off of the Rocky Road sliders, and regret the day I cut them off...will probably cut new ones and weld them back before spring.
down to 2 choices
I think I already said that a few weeks ago, but things change. I went from Rocky Road to 4x4Labs to MetalTech and BB has always been there in the background patiently waiting
1. MetalTech (not the opor)
2. Bud Built Bumpout Regular (not the beefy nor tread plating)
Here are some pros/cons I see...
The both weight about the same at 55lbs.
They both come in around $650 with powder coat, pre-tax, pre-shipping.
They both work with the Trail Rockers with no cutting.
I slightly prefer the overall look/design of the MT.
The BB have 4 legs attached to frame (3 for MT).
I dont like non tapered ends of BB. The vertical cut tubing could be a spot to get hung up on.
I dont like the bolt-on leg gussets on the MT. Seems like if they needed extra reinforcement, they should have been welded on. It means several more bolts to maintain/check.
I dont know if the non-beefy BB is adequate enough, I dont want 500lb sliders, but I dont want nerfs either.
Thanks again for all the feedback and pictures!
I think I already said that a few weeks ago, but things change. I went from Rocky Road to 4x4Labs to MetalTech and BB has always been there in the background patiently waiting
1. MetalTech (not the opor)
2. Bud Built Bumpout Regular (not the beefy nor tread plating)
Here are some pros/cons I see...
The both weight about the same at 55lbs.
They both come in around $650 with powder coat, pre-tax, pre-shipping.
They both work with the Trail Rockers with no cutting.
I slightly prefer the overall look/design of the MT.
The BB have 4 legs attached to frame (3 for MT).
I dont like non tapered ends of BB. The vertical cut tubing could be a spot to get hung up on.
I dont like the bolt-on leg gussets on the MT. Seems like if they needed extra reinforcement, they should have been welded on. It means several more bolts to maintain/check.
I dont know if the non-beefy BB is adequate enough, I dont want 500lb sliders, but I dont want nerfs either.
Thanks again for all the feedback and pictures!
Which bolt-on leg gussets are you talking about?
These from their installation instructions:
"....
Note the gusset/gussets included in your hardware pack. The gussets attach to the mount on the legs of the sliders. When the time comes to put the bolts into the gusset assemble as follows:
2.1 The bolts that hold the gusset and the foot of the slider to the frame should assemble like so: • 8mm bolt, lock washer, washer, through the gusset, through the foot and then thread into the factory tapped holes on the frame.
2.2 The bolts that hold the gusset to the leg should assemble like so: • 3/8 bolt, lock washer, washer, through the gusset, through the tab on the leg, washer, and locknut.
..."
"....
Note the gusset/gussets included in your hardware pack. The gussets attach to the mount on the legs of the sliders. When the time comes to put the bolts into the gusset assemble as follows:
2.1 The bolts that hold the gusset and the foot of the slider to the frame should assemble like so: • 8mm bolt, lock washer, washer, through the gusset, through the foot and then thread into the factory tapped holes on the frame.
2.2 The bolts that hold the gusset to the leg should assemble like so: • 3/8 bolt, lock washer, washer, through the gusset, through the tab on the leg, washer, and locknut.
..."
Attachments
STX4Runner
New member
Does it not have a bolt on gusset so it clears KDSS lines? I think shrockworks is the same way.
Engineer
New member
I will +1 for the Budbuilts as that is what I have (bumpount, non-beefy , full tread plating.) I think 99.9% of users will find the non-beefy sliders adequate. I don't recall that the MT's are any thicker of a wall than the regular budbuilts (with similiar weights, I would assume not). I would strongly consider buying bare metal and rattle can bedliner (or paint) them youself. No coating will hold up to actual use of the slider, and touch ups would be much easier/match with a DIY paint job. You will like either choice
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Brawndo
New member
Any chance you can snap a picture with those bad boys installed?
Cheers!
Member
I have the OPOR sliders for my limited....
I like them a lot. My advice is to splurge on the $150 powder coating... I didn't, I thought I would come out ahead. I bought fancy expensive epoxy paint, it didn't stick. I'm going to have to redo... I also spent 5+ hours stripping the oils/grease from the metal to prep the sliders before paint. It wasn't fun.
I like them a lot. My advice is to splurge on the $150 powder coating... I didn't, I thought I would come out ahead. I bought fancy expensive epoxy paint, it didn't stick. I'm going to have to redo... I also spent 5+ hours stripping the oils/grease from the metal to prep the sliders before paint. It wasn't fun.
Does anyone have Viper VPR rock sliders ? it weights 68 lbs, but i don't know how it handles in rock garden.
VPR4X4 | ROCK SLIDERS
VPR4X4 | ROCK SLIDERS
Whiplash Willy
New member
I got the Metal Tech OPOR sliders (Powdercoated) mostly because they were on sale (20% off) and they are local so I didn't have to deal with shipping.
I am very impressed with the fit and finish of these. They really look like they were designed for the 4Runner, and not just some generic aftermarket piece. Some sliders just look awkward on the 4runner. The welds look great, and the sliders look and feel solid. Install was easy, and they weren't any alignment issues. (However if there were, I am confident in Metal Tech's Customer service, and know they would make it right)
The rear bumpouts work great as a step, and even my 3 yr old can use them to climb in the 4runner. The front part is passable for a step, but also doesn't get in the way when you try to enter/exit without using it as a step.
I have had them on for about 6 months now, and haven't "Tested" them offroad. I am very interested in seeing how the Powder Coat holds up over time, but the coverage is 100% complete.
I am very impressed with the fit and finish of these. They really look like they were designed for the 4Runner, and not just some generic aftermarket piece. Some sliders just look awkward on the 4runner. The welds look great, and the sliders look and feel solid. Install was easy, and they weren't any alignment issues. (However if there were, I am confident in Metal Tech's Customer service, and know they would make it right)
The rear bumpouts work great as a step, and even my 3 yr old can use them to climb in the 4runner. The front part is passable for a step, but also doesn't get in the way when you try to enter/exit without using it as a step.
I have had them on for about 6 months now, and haven't "Tested" them offroad. I am very interested in seeing how the Powder Coat holds up over time, but the coverage is 100% complete.
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^^^ I have the Budbuilt bumpouts as well. Service was great, and I had my sliders within a month of making the order, which isn't bad at all considering I'm up in Canada. They are a quality product and they are strong! I've had a chance to use them a few times now and they easily support the weight of the vehicle with almost no deflection. And yes, I have used them to hi-lift the vehicle as well. They work well as a step and there are no issues with clearance or bending so far, however they will deflect ~1/4" while supporting the full weight of the vehicle. As an added bonus, they really look sharp!
I may have missed it but did you say yours were beefy or regular?
Ol'Baditude
New member
Regular, which is beefy enough IMO.
swapmeet
New member
I don't have a 5th gen...
But I picked up the 4XInnovations sliders over the holidays.
3/16 square tube and DOM round outer. They are built like a brick poop house, but sweet baby jesus they're heavy.
Oh and powdercoat isn't that great if you expect to slide on your sliders.
Prep the metal, self etching primer, prep primer per instructions and Rustoleum Professional on top of that.
You're gonna drag the finish off one way or another. Might as well make it easy to repair.
But I picked up the 4XInnovations sliders over the holidays.
3/16 square tube and DOM round outer. They are built like a brick poop house, but sweet baby jesus they're heavy.
Oh and powdercoat isn't that great if you expect to slide on your sliders.
Prep the metal, self etching primer, prep primer per instructions and Rustoleum Professional on top of that.
You're gonna drag the finish off one way or another. Might as well make it easy to repair.
Jetboy
New member
I built these in my garage. They are pretty similar to a lot of the options out there. They are built from 2x2 3/16 square tube and 1.5" Sch. 40 structural pipe. I bent with a Harbor Freight tube kinker - you can still see the mark from bender on the pipe. I might throw a little bondo in there and remove the dimple, but I really don't all that much care, so maybe not.
I set them up so the square tube sits directly under the pinch weld. That way if they do flex, it will still lift the body on the pinch weld. I left about 3/8" gap so it wouldn't become a dirt trap in there and I can blow it out with a car wash. Otherwise I tucked them up as close as possible. The bar has about 2" clearance from the doors when opening and makes a nice step to reach the roof rack. It sits about 3" proud of the bottom of the door, or almost exactly even with the outside of the tires.
For those who want to build them - the 5th gen has to be one of the easiest vehicles ever to build sliders for. The frame has lots of welded nuts all over, and with the exception of the KDSS it's really easy to access. Plus the frame sits below the body, so you can just run your bracing straight out. In comparison the ones I built for my 96 were a multi day project and a ton more work. What I found easiest for taking a pattern off the frame rails was use a piece of semi-transparent plastic sheet (with good light butcher paper might work too) and cut to the size of your bolt plate stock. Then tape to the frame rail and punch the center of your bolt holes. Then transfer that with a punch to your stock. Then hit the drill press. It took me about 2.5hrs to run around town and get my steel and stainless hardware (it was a saturday and the only steel yard was 40 minutes away
. Then about 4 hours to plan, transfer, cut, bend, drill, and weld up the sliders. And another 3ish hours to prime, paint, let dry, then bolt on. I think I spent $110 in steel and had about 1/3 of what I bought left over, $30 in paint, $25 in hardware (20 stainless 6mm bolts, washers, lock washers).
I'd rather have steel tube, but I don't have a bender. Otherwise I'm pretty pleased with the outcome.
If you don't have metal fab tools, the products from places like rocky road are very good prices IMO. And they are probably a bit nicer than my setup, but I'm happy with it. Even with the tools I can't say that I did much better on price than just buying them if my time is worth anything.
If nothing else, now I can park without fear of door dings.
Edit: As far as structure - they are pretty solid, but possibly could use both a gusset or possibly a wrap under the frame rail to tie into some of the locations along the bottom. I kept them simple for now considering how many weld on sliders are done - this should be as strong or stronger because the ultimate weakness is the frame material its self. The plates are thicker double what the frame material is. On the KDSS side (driver's side) gussets are much harder to make work. They would need to be bolt on braces that go around the KDSS lines. On that side there are bolt locations on the back and a welded nut on the front cross member that could easily be connected to for greater resistance to vertical forces. I don't think it's necessary for my use - yet...
Here's a couple pics.
I set them up so the square tube sits directly under the pinch weld. That way if they do flex, it will still lift the body on the pinch weld. I left about 3/8" gap so it wouldn't become a dirt trap in there and I can blow it out with a car wash. Otherwise I tucked them up as close as possible. The bar has about 2" clearance from the doors when opening and makes a nice step to reach the roof rack. It sits about 3" proud of the bottom of the door, or almost exactly even with the outside of the tires.
For those who want to build them - the 5th gen has to be one of the easiest vehicles ever to build sliders for. The frame has lots of welded nuts all over, and with the exception of the KDSS it's really easy to access. Plus the frame sits below the body, so you can just run your bracing straight out. In comparison the ones I built for my 96 were a multi day project and a ton more work. What I found easiest for taking a pattern off the frame rails was use a piece of semi-transparent plastic sheet (with good light butcher paper might work too) and cut to the size of your bolt plate stock. Then tape to the frame rail and punch the center of your bolt holes. Then transfer that with a punch to your stock. Then hit the drill press. It took me about 2.5hrs to run around town and get my steel and stainless hardware (it was a saturday and the only steel yard was 40 minutes away
. Then about 4 hours to plan, transfer, cut, bend, drill, and weld up the sliders. And another 3ish hours to prime, paint, let dry, then bolt on. I think I spent $110 in steel and had about 1/3 of what I bought left over, $30 in paint, $25 in hardware (20 stainless 6mm bolts, washers, lock washers).I'd rather have steel tube, but I don't have a bender. Otherwise I'm pretty pleased with the outcome.
If you don't have metal fab tools, the products from places like rocky road are very good prices IMO. And they are probably a bit nicer than my setup, but I'm happy with it. Even with the tools I can't say that I did much better on price than just buying them if my time is worth anything.
If nothing else, now I can park without fear of door dings.
Edit: As far as structure - they are pretty solid, but possibly could use both a gusset or possibly a wrap under the frame rail to tie into some of the locations along the bottom. I kept them simple for now considering how many weld on sliders are done - this should be as strong or stronger because the ultimate weakness is the frame material its self. The plates are thicker double what the frame material is. On the KDSS side (driver's side) gussets are much harder to make work. They would need to be bolt on braces that go around the KDSS lines. On that side there are bolt locations on the back and a welded nut on the front cross member that could easily be connected to for greater resistance to vertical forces. I don't think it's necessary for my use - yet...
Here's a couple pics.
CatskillsRunner
New member
Hey Pat,
I am begging my husband to build me some sliders. Are you reusing the parts you got from Rocky Road? Would you do anything differently this time around? Thinking if I can get the stuff together for him and he only has to buy the steel it should be an easy sell...
Thanks! Kristy
