P0420 code

No. I meant you trashed it when you threw it out, not by leaving the sensor in. Your problem may have been the rear sensor all along. I cured my P0420 three years ago by just changing the rear sensor. I'm still on the 1999 factory cats today.

There was a lot of stuff rattling around inside the old cat, a bunch of gunk fell out of it when we removed it. Otherwise I would have preferred to keep it cause they are expensive. My mechanic even referenced a cleaning method until the crap started falling out. ahh well its the beauty of owning a 15 year old vehicle.
 
There was a lot of stuff rattling around inside the old cat, a bunch of gunk fell out of it when we removed it. Otherwise I would have preferred to keep it cause they are expensive. My mechanic even referenced a cleaning method until the crap started falling out. ahh well its the beauty of owning a 15 year old vehicle.

Ahhh, that's different. Still, most mechanics, and all dealers, will put in new sensors along with a new cat.
 
You need to hook up a scanner and monitor your rear o2 sensor. If it is switching from high and low volts that means your cat is not doing its job. Just throwing parts at it is the wrong way to go about anything. If you cant afford a scanner it best to just pay someone to do it right the first time. It would have prob cost the same if not more by the time you get done throwing parts at it. Wftermarket cats suck really bad. And if it has gone bad already most likely you have other problems causing it to go bad. Misfire, dirty maf, poor fuel trims. The rear 02 sensors rarely cause this code. If you get a p0420 it means your rear 02 is actually doing its job! Long story short get your engine running in tip top shape and get a factory cat and call it a day.
 
My CEL came on quite some time ago, I freaked, regained composure while driving. I went to get an OBDII test and it came back with excessive flow, this led me to the EGR probably being stuck open, my O2 sensors are probably due to replace and my CAT.... Well let's just say it's pretty STANK.
 
You need to hook up a scanner and monitor your rear o2 sensor. If it is switching from high and low volts that means your cat is not doing its job. Just throwing parts at it is the wrong way to go about anything. If you cant afford a scanner it best to just pay someone to do it right the first time. It would have prob cost the same if not more by the time you get done throwing parts at it. Wftermarket cats suck really bad. And if it has gone bad already most likely you have other problems causing it to go bad. Misfire, dirty maf, poor fuel trims. The rear 02 sensors rarely cause this code. If you get a p0420 it means your rear 02 is actually doing its job! Long story short get your engine running in tip top shape and get a factory cat and call it a day.


Actually the rear O2 CAN cause this, as in other threads a while ago it was explained to me that the rear O2 gets lazy.

No need to waste money on a factory cat either. I have been perfectly happy with a bolt in Magnaflow unit.
 
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You need to hook up a scanner and monitor your rear o2 sensor. If it is switching from high and low volts that means your cat is not doing its job. Just throwing parts at it is the wrong way to go about anything. If you cant afford a scanner it best to just pay someone to do it right the first time. It would have prob cost the same if not more by the time you get done throwing parts at it. Wftermarket cats suck really bad. And if it has gone bad already most likely you have other problems causing it to go bad. Misfire, dirty maf, poor fuel trims. The rear 02 sensors rarely cause this code. If you get a p0420 it means your rear 02 is actually doing its job! Long story short get your engine running in tip top shape and get a factory cat and call it a day.

As stated above, this is just bad info. The rear O2 frequently causes this code, and if you know the age of the sensor to be over 80K, changing it makes perfect sense. If you end up putting a new cat in, any decent shop will insist on new sensors anyway, so it's a good idea to try this first, as a likely low-cost fix. This is especially true if you have had to change your front O2 in recent history, as they go bad first, but not by a whole lot. It certainly makes more sense to do this than to start chasing phantom misfires, etc. I cured my P0420 just by changing the original rear O2 in 2009 at 112k. No P0420 since except for one Sunday in a crowded park where I drove for almost an hour at 25mph or less. Cleared it and never came back.

As you stated above, cats usually don't die of old age, something kills them--physical damage, excess unburnt fuel, etc. But sensors do die of old age, and any original sensor out there is beyond end-of-life.Buy a new Sensor on Amazon, and you will spend about the same as asking someone to hook up a scanner. Plus, if he thinks he can sell you a cat, he may well try to if you need it or not.

Many aftermarket cats are junk, but some members have had success. I know one guy on here is happy with his Eastern Catalytic cat ( [MENTION=56021]Nelsonmd[/MENTION] ).
 
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As stated above, this is just bad info. The rear O2 frequently causes this code, and if you know the age of the sensor to be over 80K, changing it makes perfect sense. If you end up putting a new cat in, any decent shop will insist on new sensors anyway, so it's a good idea to try this first, as a likely low-cost fix. This is especially true if you have had to change your front O2 in recent history, as they go bad first, but not by a whole lot. It certainly makes more sense to do this than to start chasing phantom misfires, etc. I cured my P0420 just by changing the original rear O2 in 2009 at 112k. No P0420 since except for one Sunday in a crowded park where I drove for almost an hour at 25mph or less. Cleared it and never came back.

As you stated above, cats usually don't die of old age, something kills them--physical damage, excess unburnt fuel, etc. But sensors do die of old age, and any original sensor out there is beyond end-of-life.Buy a new Sensor on Amazon, and you will spend about the same as asking someone to hook up a scanner. Plus, if he thinks he can sell you a cat, he may well try to if you need it or not.

Many aftermarket cats are junk, but some members have had success. I know one guy on here is happy with his Eastern Catalytic cat ( [MENTION=56021]Nelsonmd[/MENTION] ).

I replaced my A/F and O2 sensors in my 2000 4runner Limited, it did the trick so far (200 miles and still counting).

The A/F metered bad and the O2 metered good. First I changed the A/F amd the truck ram better but the P0420 kept coming back. So I took your advice and changed the O2, even if it metered good, and so far it's working. Thank you.
 
It's just two nuts to remove and get the connector apart. You may need new nuts to put back together if they are really rusty.


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I've had the code for over a year. I replaced both o2's and it went away for 5mounths and then it came back--I had it reset a few times and it would stay off for a few tanks of gas and it did shut off by itself at least twice. Made it through inspection last year by unplugging the battery and it came on a week later--Went in for inspection this past week and expected I'd have to get a new cat but the mechanic found a small exhaust leak near the cat. He welded it and reset the code. Lights been off for almost a week. Fingers crossed. Do you have a rotten egg smell or a cat that is rattling?
Does a rattling cat sound like a chain ratting by any chance? I have a weird sound that sounds like a chain.
 
Bumping an old tread. Is it still best practice to replace the rear (cheaper) sensor before the front $100+ one? Also, once the sensor is replaced, and if that was the culprit, will the CEL turn off itself, or need a tool to reset?
 
Bumping an old tread. Is it still best practice to replace the rear (cheaper) sensor before the front $100+ one? Also, once the sensor is replaced, and if that was the culprit, will the CEL turn off itself, or need a tool to reset?

The oxygen sensor after the catalytic converter is the one responsible for providing the ECM with the data required to set that code. After replacing the sensor you can drive around to clear the dtc, but it may take several days or weeks depending on how you drive for the code to clear. The ecm is looking for specific parameters to be met for each test for the dtc, and it requires several successful tests to clear the dtc. Easiest way is to replace the sensor and then clear the code at Autozone, etc and drive it.
 
The oxygen sensor after the catalytic converter is the one responsible for providing the ECM with the data required to set that code. After replacing the sensor you can drive around to clear the dtc, but it may take several days or weeks depending on how you drive for the code to clear. The ecm is looking for specific parameters to be met for each test for the dtc, and it requires several successful tests to clear the dtc. Easiest way is to replace the sensor and then clear the code at Autozone, etc and drive it.

thanks. what about California cars that have two cats and two sensors? Do the one closer to the engine or the back one first? [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] suggested changing the front one first if youre going to replace one sensor at a time.
 
thanks. what about California cars that have two cats and two sensors? Do the one closer to the engine or the back one first? [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] suggested changing the front one first if youre going to replace one sensor at a time.

The front sensor for all models is an air/fuel sensor. The one after the cats is the oxygen sensor. Only the one after the cats will affect that code. Start with it (the sensor after the cats).
 
I done all that and my code ended up being caused by antifreeze.

No code in 3000 miles with fresh engine in it. I’m glad I didn’t have to replace the CAT.


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My 0420 was the result of a poorly grounded O2 sensor. Shop cleaned up some of the grounding wiring and the code went away, been running without issues or codes for months.

May not apply to your situation, but figured it couldn't hurt to share.
 
I done all that and my code ended up being caused by antifreeze.

No code in 3000 miles with fresh engine in it. I’m glad I didn’t have to replace the CAT.


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So mine threw this same code then I noticed the temp was a bit high. Was it low antifreeze? I will check mine in the morning to see but just curious what solved your problem
 
So mine threw this same code then I noticed the temp was a bit high. Was it low antifreeze? I will check mine in the morning to see but just curious what solved your problem



I had a crack in the cylinder which was causing the engine to burn antifreeze. That was causing my P420 code. I installed a spare engine I had rebuilt. No 420 code since then. I’m glad it didn’t ruin my CAT.


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