natevans65
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Is bank 2 driver or passenger and does this reading mean upper or lower sensor, assuming lower?
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BlackWorksInc
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It means that one or both Catalysts on Bank 2 failed the catalyst efficiency test. Whether or not that means one or both catalysts need to be replaced and/or the sensors is the tricky part.
How many miles are we talking here? If it's like 100k I'd be a bit on the fence about the catalyst being bad, if it's closer to 200k I'd be more likely to condemn the cat.
How many miles are we talking here? If it's like 100k I'd be a bit on the fence about the catalyst being bad, if it's closer to 200k I'd be more likely to condemn the cat.
Is bank 2 driver or passenger and does this reading mean upper or lower sensor, assuming lower?
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the 430 code means that the passenger side cat is not working properly.the cat reacts to the PCM as it controls the fuel to air ratio. if the cat does not respond properly, the downstream O2 sensor will mimic the upstream O2 sensor output voltage ,then the code will throw.
to check if the sensor is bad swap downstream sensors if code does not change then its the cat.
then start engine cold. crawl under vehicle put a hand on each converter they should both heat up the same . the one that is colder is the bad cat.
high miles on engine 150k PLUS , NOT all that uncommon. using a scan tool check the fuel trims before cat replacing . could be a problem with the engine not properly burning fuel or excessive oil use or even coolant burning ..vacuum leaks will cause / trick out the PCM to dump too much fuel into the engine.
natevans65
New member
227K on the original CATS, I did go out and disconnect the battery for an hour last night, ran the truck for about 1 hour on an errand this morning and it did not come back. Keeping fingers crossed it does not come back. The good news is that I have 1 full year until I have to go to the Virginia inspection station again!
on your vehicle it will go thru the tests. these must be complete as well as NO codes to pass. one of the tests is the converter
BlackWorksInc
New member
Sounds like a borderline cat to me... It takes a bit of driving for the catalyst test to run, but it may or may not pass the next time and fail the time after that. At 227k I'd say that it's probably the catalyst on it's way out and it will probably start failing more frequently as time goes on.
Two videos on the subject, both good places to start and to embellish on BlackWorksInc.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es9ItFprLZk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VZ5K8n5jj0&t=535s
If it is a bad cat, cat's don't frequently go bad if everything upstream is also working optimally.
Few cheap things to make sure upstream is working good, and otherwise good idea if they haven't been changed in a while:
- battery connections not corroded
- airbox filter
- pcv
- spark plugs
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] , what do you think of o2 sensor spacers? The ones that space it out 2" or so to make it read leaner than it really is, cheap $20 fix? (assuming you swap in new sensors due to age and it still throws the code, and one side's outlet runs measurably colder than the other + voltage jumps around on the rear o2, + non-fluctuating upstream sensor voltage)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es9ItFprLZk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VZ5K8n5jj0&t=535s
If it is a bad cat, cat's don't frequently go bad if everything upstream is also working optimally.
Few cheap things to make sure upstream is working good, and otherwise good idea if they haven't been changed in a while:
- battery connections not corroded
- airbox filter
- pcv
- spark plugs
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] , what do you think of o2 sensor spacers? The ones that space it out 2" or so to make it read leaner than it really is, cheap $20 fix? (assuming you swap in new sensors due to age and it still throws the code, and one side's outlet runs measurably colder than the other + voltage jumps around on the rear o2, + non-fluctuating upstream sensor voltage)
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BlackWorksInc
New member
In my experience I think the very strict operating conditions and typically lean biased operating conditions of most modern cars eventually just burns the cats out. 200~300k is probably not a bad lifespan for them these days to be honest.
Spacers might work? But realistically it'll probably just cause more issues down the line as the vehicle won't be controlling fuel trim accurately at that point.
natevans65
New member
OK...going to start with the 02 sensors as they are pretty inexpensive (at least on RockAuto- $40 each). So am reading this correctly that this is on the passenger side (bank 2) or is bank 2 driver side? I will replace the down stream first and then if that works-great. If not...will go with the upstream next. The CATS themselves are around $250 so that is the most expensive cost that I can see on this mini project. Already did PVC 6 months ago, plugs this past Christmas, Air filter is clean (K&N-CAI) and is clean. I have the special spray to hit up the MAF sensor if its dirty. So with 227K I understand i am at the point and time where things start to go and I am OK with that, I plan to keep old faithful running for a while. So....is bank 2 Driver or Passenger side? Thank you!
my post #3 : start engine cold. crawl under vehicle put a hand on each converter they should both heat up the same . the one that is colder is the bad cat.
also swap downstream O2 sensors if the same code returns it is the pass side converter.
before replacing a converter make sure the fuel trims are less than 15. normal is less than 10.. zero is perfect. I doubt zero..
natevans65
New member
Will do so when warmer weather approaches. Thank you all for your help.
natevans65
New member
It's been off for about a week now, no check engine or VSC lights. When I did crawl under there I shuddered at all the rust, I do have a magnaflow cat back system so that section is in good shape. Forward of that is pretty rusted up as that section forward is OEM with now 228k on it. Guess that is part of owning an older truck.
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