P0446 Solutions Anyone?

TX4Running

Member
Got the CEL, VSC TRAC, and VSC OFF lights. Codes show to be P0440, P0441, and P0446. There's a lot of info about the P0446 out there. I'm looking for solutions ONLY from people who have corrected the problem legally. We have annual inspections that are required so I cannot bypass anything or ignore it.

I know the gas cap thing is not the solution. Is the replacement of the charcoal canister a likely solution?

I read that someone corrected their issue by replacing a filler pipe in bad condition. My filler pipe is in great condition. However, I cannot fill up by just leaving the pump nozzle in my filler pipe. I have to hold it at a specific angle at least 75% of the time. This now is my wife's vehicle and she said she has topped off the fuel tank in the past. Once she realized where I was going with the questioning she said she hadn't done it in at least 6 months. Through powers of factoring for what she says and what she means, she probably topped it off last week. Yet I digress. If topping off was the cause, will time correct the problem assuming no more topping off problems? Any ideas are much appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Got the CEL, VSC TRAC, and VSC OFF lights. Codes show to be P0440, P0441, and P0446. There's a lot of info about the P0446 out there. I'm looking for solutions ONLY from people who have corrected the problem legally. We have annual inspections that are required so I cannot bypass anything or ignore it.

I know the gas cap thing is not the solution. Is the replacement of the charcoal canister a likely solution?

I read that someone corrected their issue by replacing a filler pipe in bad condition. My filler pipe is in great condition. However, I cannot fill up by just leaving the pump nozzle in my filler pipe. I have to hold it at a specific angle at least 75% of the time. This now is my wife's vehicle and she said she has topped off the fuel tank in the past. Once she realized where I was going with the questioning she said she hadn't done it in at least 6 months. Through powers of factoring for what she says and what she means, she probably topped it off last week. Yet I digress. If topping off was the cause, will time correct the problem assuming no more topping off problems? Any ideas are much appreciated. Thanks.

Straight from the ol' tech archives. Basically data collected from techs that have seen the same combination of codes, the diagnosis, and the number of times each item was verified as the correct repair.

Pretty telling since you have the exact 3 codes!

Vehicle Application:

1999 4Runner 3.4 2003 Sequoia 4.7
2000 4Runner 3.4 2000 Solara 2.2
2001 4Runner 3.4 2000 Solara 3.0
2002 4Runner 3.4 2002 Tacoma 3.4
2004 4Runner 4.0 2003 Tacoma 3.4
1999 Camry 2.2 2004 Tacoma 3.4
2000 Camry 2.2 2003 Tundra 3.4
2000 Camry 3.0 2004 Tundra 3.4
2002 Sequoia 4.7

Customer Concern:
Engine runs, but the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is on with codes P0440, P0441 and P0446.

Average Reported Mileage:
112049

Tests/Procedures:

1. Verify that the Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) for the pressure sensor (located on the canister) operates correctly. This is a normally closed (N.C.) valve. When energized, it should open. When de-energized, an internal spring should close the valve.

2. Verify that the canister closed valve (located on the air filter housing) closes and does not stick closed when operated. This is a normally open (N.O.) valve. When it is grounded, it closes, and it should never stick closed.

3. If both solenoids operate correctly and are not sticking, inspect for a restriction in the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) lines that could affect how the canister vents after a leak test is performed.

4. Verify that the fuel cap is a factory part. If the fuel cap leaks or does not hold the correct amount of vacuum when the system checks for a leak, all the codes will set.
Tech Tips:
If possible, use a scan tool to turn these two solenoids on and off. This is a good way to test the operation of the internal drivers of the Engine Control Module (ECM) and the wiring harness. Refer to Toyota TSB #EG005-01 and #EG013-03 for additional information on the EVAP system operation.

Diagnostic Codes
P0440
P0441
P0446

Confirmed Fix
83 - Charcoal Canister
29 - Fuel Filler Cap
18 - Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV)
 
I've got the 440, 442 and 446.
I have already replaced the evap canister and the VSV.
After those didn't solve the problem, I took it to the dealer for a diagnostic.
They say it's a valve and a cracked hose on top of my gas tank.

If you want to save a lot of money trying to hunt this down, take it to a dealer for a diagnostic. Only cost me about $70 to find out what it was after spending $500+ in parts trying to figure it out myself.
 
ScanTool Recommendations

EatonKyle,
What OBDII scanner would you recommend? I've been looking at Actrons and Innovas but find negative reviews for everything. Is it possible to use a scanner to force specific valves open and closed to prove if one is the problem?

Also, as for a diagnostic test at the dealer, will they tell me the exact part that is the problem for a relatively low cost ~$70? I've read plenty of posts on here where the dealers are throwing darts at the board hoping one will eventually be the fix.
Thanks.
 
EatonKyle,
What OBDII scanner would you recommend? I've been looking at Actrons and Innovas but find negative reviews for everything. Is it possible to use a scanner to force specific valves open and closed to prove if one is the problem?

Also, as for a diagnostic test at the dealer, will they tell me the exact part that is the problem for a relatively low cost ~$70? I've read plenty of posts on here where the dealers are throwing darts at the board hoping one will eventually be the fix.
Thanks.

Honestly most generic scan tools fall pretty flat when it comes to bidirectional controls (being able to command specific components on/off with the scan tool). Most of the more capable generic tools (all makes/models) I use are extremely expensive... such as the Snap-on Verus, Solus, and so on.

I'd recommend going straight for the Toyota TIS Techstream. It is the dealer/Toyota specific OE scan tool and is PC based. Rarely can you get dealer diagnostic equipment at a reasonable price but the TIS has seemed to be an exception. Look it up on Ebay. It's the software on CD and a specific USB to OBDII connector. If you need help with it, it's a pretty popular topic over in the 5th gen section.

A dealer or reputable independent shop should be able to diagnose it for you and hit the nail on the head the first time. Expect to pay 80-100+ for diagnostic charges. If you pay them to diagnose it I'd recommend also paying them the whole way...for parts and labor as well. This way if it does not solve your issue the first time you have a better platform to argue that they were wrong and should work with you. Providing your own junk yard or aftermarket part to them or repairing it yourself after they diagnosed it leaves room for a ton of excuses on their end if your codes were to return.

Good luck and hope this info helps!
 
p0446

on my 98 with the 446 code, I cleaned all three switches, put clamps on vac lines that i could get to and cleaned and lubed the gasket on the fuel cap. so far 689 miles later no cel. knock on wood.:high5:
 
2. Verify that the canister closed valve (located on the air filter housing) closes and does not stick closed when operated. This is a normally open (N.O.) valve. When it is grounded, it closes, and it should never stick closed.
)

Could someone describe the location of this valve to me? I just removed my intake to install plugs and tires and clean my MAF, and afterward threw this P0446 [Evap Circuit]. Given the work I did, this seems like a reasonable start.
 
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I've been hunting down mine, 2002 4Runner, for a couple months now.

Tried a new OEM gas cap, no fix.
Replaced charcoal canister with a used one, no fix.
Next up is the overfill check valve on the gas tank. Hoping that will fix it, just have to drop the gas tank to fix it. Reason I believe this will fix it is because I've gone to fill up a few times and the pump always stops after a few seconds when filling up. Pretty frustrating.

Most people say don't worry about it (i have an ultragauge so I turn the code off anytime it comes on), comes on 2-4 times a week now. But that bothers the hell out of me and I can stand having to keep turning it off. We don't have emissions testing here in KY so that's not a problem, but my OCD is haha.
 
I've been hunting down mine, 2002 4Runner, for a couple months now.

Tried a new OEM gas cap, no fix.
Replaced charcoal canister with a used one, no fix.
Next up is the overfill check valve on the gas tank. Hoping that will fix it, just have to drop the gas tank to fix it. Reason I believe this will fix it is because I've gone to fill up a few times and the pump always stops after a few seconds when filling up. Pretty frustrating.

Most people say don't worry about it (i have an ultragauge so I turn the code off anytime it comes on), comes on 2-4 times a week now. But that bothers the hell out of me and I can stand having to keep turning it off. We don't have emissions testing here in KY so that's not a problem, but my OCD is haha.
I am the same way! I recently got one of those VeePeak devices to clear my codes and play with other OBD2 functions. But, I hate having the light on and I hate knowing something is wrong with my truck.
 
i replaced the complete canister and that solved the issue. i bought an OTC brand obd scanner that has a lot of features and works great.
 
Bottom line is it's a complex system with no easy fixes. You have to troubleshoot it to find the issue, or just randomly throw parts at it until the code goes away.

Start by removing the charcoal canister, checking the VSV there and pressure testing the canister for leaks. There's a seam running around one end of the canister, sometimes develops a small crack. People have had luck smearing RTV or whatever all around that seam.

If that's all in order your best bet is to do a smoke test on the whole system. There's all sorts of hoses and connections, any one of which could be leaking. Smoke test should point out the problem areas.
 
So. If you are one to top off your fuel tank you're going to get this code. Overfilling on a 3rd gen will get fuel into the charcoal can. Don't buy a new charcoal can. Cover EVERY seam with JB weld. Install and let the code fix itself. You can plug up all ports but one on the can and induce a vacuum and see if it holds negative pressure. If it doesn't then you have cracks which you can JB weld. If it DOES hold negative pressure I'd move to checking the 2 VSVs on the can with the 9v method. This charcoal cans are super expensive for a carbon filter.


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446

Would a faulty filler tube cause a 446 code? I felt the top side of the tube and know it has some rust. It seems logical if a gas cap can cause the problem, then a faulty filler tube would also not allow a proper seal. I also have codes 440 & 441.
 
fixed mine by replacing the check valve on top of the gas tank.
drop the tank pull the old one out put the new one in. been good for 5k miles now.

I had the 446/440
 
For me, it was the VSV on the canister. I would recommend replacing the gas cap first (cheap and easy). If that doesn't fix, pull the canister and function check the vsv's with a 9V. Also look for a cracked canister while your in there.


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I am going to dig into this over the next couple of weeks. I have had the code for a good 2 months now, if not more. I just clear it every few days with my OBD2 app, but I would love it permanently gone!

I am going to pull and check the canister VSV, as the other two in the engine bay functioned normally. If that checks out, I will probably just take it to someone who can pressurize the system.
 
fixed mine by replacing the check valve on top of the gas tank.
drop the tank pull the old one out put the new one in. been good for 5k miles now.

I had the 446/440

I recently purchased (5) 4Runners. All 1997 except the 2001 that is throwing the 3 codes.

The PO of the 01 spent a couple of thousand on shocks, tie rod ends...... Vehicle is clean inside and out. Had a little rust. My son and I welded one 2" piece of steel over a section of the frame on the drivers side that had 4 small rust areas. We had this up on 12 ton jack stands and cleaned the undercarriage. We dropped the gas tank so we could inspect the driver side frame and floors. We used a phosphoric acid solution diluted with H2O to convert any surface rust we found and then painted the entire underside with a paint over rust product. SEM Rust Shield I think was the product. We used the hardner also. Now we feel very comfortable with the integrity of the undercarriage.

When we dropped the tank we noticed a broken off vent pipe on the top of the tank. Upon further examination, there was a small hole in the top of the tank where a bracket was once mounted. We ordered a new tank and installed it using the old Check Valve.

Another thing we noted was the accordion style hose that goes from the Check Valve to the EVAP canister was damaged. I don't even know what they call it and have not been able to find a part number or replacement for it.
We did however find a very good piece of rubber hose that was able with effort to be worked onto the damaged hose. We cut the damaged place out of the hose and caked RTV onto the accordion hose and put the Rubber hose on top. I truly think that hose is sealed and not leaking.

We would have thought that the holes in the gas tank and holes in the accordion hose would have solved the multiple CEL's.

We did check all the valves two under the hood and the one on the canister with 9volts to hear a click. All the valves clicked.

After everything we did we felt that assembly of the vehicle was in order and we would drive it to see if the codes would stay gone. They all came back.
We did not perform a proper test on the canister because we only purchased one vacuum pump kit and the video we had showed we needed two. After everything we have been through to that point, it seemed likely that the problem was fixed and if it was not the removal of the EVAP canister would be an easy job.

This week after the check engine light came on, we checked the codes. 440, 441 & 446. I read someplace on this forum how someone had replaced the filler neck and successfully eradicated the CEL. I read it several times but was not clear if they had the 446 or not. It seems that some people say that 446 is either canister or VSP on canister.

My logic would make me think that if a gas cap seal or a vacuum line seal is so important, then a hole in the tank would have the same detrimental effect. Furthermore a compromised filler neck tube would also not allow the system to seal.

I did reach up and touch the filler neck tube and noted flaking softish metal on the topside of the metal tube. It seems like if it is not leaking, it is a problem waiting to happen.

Some people dread the canister replacement. Finding a replacement filler neck for a 2001 4runner that is in stock is no easy task. I found some that were not available for as little as $108 but no stock. I found one for almost $150. Not a cheap price and I would have to think that replacement will not be a fast simple task.

We have a clock ticking. Here in CT a new registration of a vehicle that came from out of state has 60 days from the time of first emission test that fails to take another free test. If you don't pass in 60 days they suspend your registration. The first time the vehicle failed because it was not OBD ready so no codes were identified. I knew there were codes when I purchased the vehicle out of state but had cleared them prior to emissions. With a failed emissions you can to to DMV and register the vehicle with the aforementioned 60 day rule. Another thing I think is that in CT if you fail emissions you can get a waiver after you spend a certain amount of money on emission related repairs so long as your repairs has shown improvement in the emissions system. When purchased there was also a 420 code Catalytic converter code. That one has not yet reappeared. I don't mind fixing the vehicle, I just need to keep it on the road. I am hoping for all codes to be back this week and to go back in for my free inspection and fail. Then I have documentation of the codes and not just a not ready OBD failure. Then we can prove we replaced gas tank, filler neck, and whatever else. Worst case scenario I am hoping for is to have failed emission and receive a one time waiver because we spent the limit on parts trying to fix the problem.

The worst part about these issues are the necessary drive cycles and time they take. If I have a plumbing leak or a swimming pool leak, I can fix it and know right away it is fixed. With these emission issues and time it takes to complete drive cycles there is a lot of time and money thrown at the fix.

I have read plenty on this forum in regards to this issue. Many will suggest bringing it to a dealer. I have read many people say they did bring to a dealer, was diagnosed as faulty xyz and 200 miles later light back on.

Open to any and all help or suggestions!
 
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