P0705 Error and bad Neutral Sensor Switch

hkazmi

New member
So, I get this error on my 2010 4Runner, on second time that I take it to the dealership, the adviser calls back and says a C$500 Neutral Sensor Switch is malfunctioning and needs to be changed. The current is not flowing in some solenoid because of this.

The shifter is a bit hard to shift as well.

I am just hear for some advice, should I get this done at on a Toyota dealership? Look for after market. Also is this the actual issue, considering they didn't catch it the first time, I am not too confident about their diagnostics either.

Any advice will be appreciated.:help:
 
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Well if you're not confident a second opinion doesn't hurt if you have the funds I suppose.

But it's possible the switch went bad, how's the shifter look? Usually if the "Shifter is hard to move" it's because the owner has damaged the plastic sliding covers that hide the mechanicals and they start bunching up. That is it's own issue separate of the switch though. There is a solenoid that disengages a lock so you an shift it out of Park, if the sensor feeding that solenoid is bad, it won't work.
 
I got this issue last spring I think, I reset the code and never had check engine light since. But occasionally when I put shifter to drive - letter "D" doesn't come up, truck drives normally but doesn't shift to 5th gear. When I notice it and move shifter back and forth it gets to normal position with "D" on dashboard. It started being worse this winter, I could feel that if shifter feels mushy when I put it on Drive I need to shift it back and forth to make it work properly. I was going to remove sensor myself, open it up and see if I can clean it but it was too cold d outside and my garage is full of stuff I need to clean up. Finally I gave up and got my mechanic to replace switch. Asked him to get a Toyota one and it cost me about the same $500, apparently switch costs over $400. But I decided to bite a bullet since this sensor was good for the past 6 years and I don't want to find out that aftermarket sensor fails on me when I'm far away from a point where I can call tow truck : ) So from my experience you can drive with this for long time, but eventually it will need to be replaced. here's my thread about it: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/217680-first-issue-my-truck-any-ideas-whats-wrong.html
 
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I recently ran into this very same issue on my 2011 Limited with 169,000 km.

Three dash warning lights activated while driving - the Check Engine light was on; the Slip Indicator was on; and the 4-LO Lowspeed 4WD Indicator was flashing.

Using my OBD II Code Reader, the Error Code P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input) came up.

I can't say for certain that I truly noticed that moving the gear shifter was becoming all that difficult over time.

Based on my research, I anticipated that the A/T Gear Position Sensor aka the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) Assembly had failed.

Toyota Canada Part number for the NSS is 84540-35060.

My independent mechanic confirmed the switch failure, and after waiting several days for the local Toyota dealership to get this part in, the old switch was removed (not easily removed due to the corrosion) and the new switch was installed.

My mechanic showed me the inside of the old switch, and the internal corrosion that was on the internal contacts.

The new switch cost $263.00 CAN.

With the new switch, moving the gear shifter does seem a bit smoother
 
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Same thing

I recently ran into this very same issue on my 2011 Limited with 169,000 km.

Three dash warning lights activated while driving - the Check Engine light was on; the Slip Indicator was on; and the 4-LO Lowspeed 4WD Indicator was flashing.

Using my OBD II Code Reader, the Error Code P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input) came up.

I can't say for certain that I truly noticed that moving the gear shifter was becoming all that difficult over time.

Based on my research, I anticipated that the A/T Gear Position Sensor aka the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) Assembly had failed.

Toyota Canada Part number for the NSS is 84540-35060.

My independent mechanic confirmed the switch failure, and after waiting several days for the local Toyota dealership to get this part in, the old switch was removed (not easily removed due to the corrosion) and the new switch was installed.

My mechanic showed me the inside of the old switch, and the internal corrosion that was on the internal contacts.

The new switch cost $263.00 CAN.

With the new switch, moving the gear shifter does seem a bit smoother

Thanks for this. My 2013 has started doing this. But with the recent very cold weather, I get the CEL, 4LO etc etc , I check and then delete the code, it's good for a week, then it returns. But it does seem to be affected by this cold weather. Sounds like a case for the dealership (aarrgghh) or Master Mechanic.
 
im guessing thats a part that can be cleaned a bit? contact cleaner or something like that to remove any contaminants.

maybe ill add that to my periodic maintenance schedule
 
I have fixed this issue on my 2014 and my dad's 2015 just by spraying the crap out of it with some lubricant. The last time I sprayed it was over a year ago, I need to give it a fresh coating! Same thing with joint in the intermediate steering shaft, it needs to stay covered in lubricant.
 
I just completed this repair. On my 11 year old 2011 with about 260k miles. This is the first time anything about this repair has been touched, so I was unnecessarily worried about the O2 sensor. I fought most of the sensor off, but the center piece wouldn’t budge. I used a Dremel in an attempt to cut and chisel it off, but wouldn’t get a good angle. I ended up getting a small gear puller and a 10mm socket because I t was the biggest that would fit through the puller. I notched two sides off. Think slotted screwdriver but reversed. I then drilled out the back of the socket so that the post of the puller would be captured. The socket stabilized the whole assembly so that the post wouldn’t slip off of the shaft. I got it off a little before the puller’s center post bottomed out on the socket, so I used my Shopsmith disc sander with 180 grit to grind the threads off and extend the narrow portion of the post long enough to reach through the sensor completely.

Here’s where grabbing the $30 flexible shaft for my Dremel could have been a very simple solution.

I removed my O2 sensor easily with a large adjustable wrench I bought about 25 years ago to adjust my BMX crank. Today was the second time I used it.

I screwed around for about 5 hours, so here’s how I would do it next time.

Someone made a puller that threads onto the sensor and has a bolt that goes down the center, directly pulling everything all at once. Wish I’d have found that before destroying them in attempted removal. I’d try to locate or fabricate one, remove the O2 sensor l, pull the NSS, put the new one on, test position, be done in 10 minutes.

If no neat puller,
Remove O2 sensor.
Use spring loaded center punch, then Dremel with flex shaft and proper bit to put a divot on the shaft.
If I could find or tweak a puller that fits over the entire sensor, I’d use it now.
If not, I’d use a metal cutting wheel on the Dremel to excise most of it and expose the center piece which is rusted to the shaft.
Use small gear puller to remove what’s left.
Install new sensor.
Install O2 sensor.
Test shifter for proper positions.
Done in an hour.

Here’s the puller I used. It just fit when I pulled the shaft toward me. It has maybe 1/4” of side to side play. I had to grind down the center post to fit through the sensor. I just ground and rotated for a few seconds before dipping in water to cool. It took maybe 5 minutes or so, testing for clearance on the new sensor. By putting a divot on the shaft and clearancing the center post, you can save your 10mm socket sacrifice because the assembly will be stable.

Feel free to PM/tag me with questions. I’m no pro, just handy, and found the available info lacking. Blasted reliable vehicles! Please note that my lack of experience with this led to a period of hydrating reflection on how I could have done this better and hope that people find my ramble helpful. Maybe I’ll clean it up later when my hydration wears off.

XMHF Adjustable 2-Jaw Gear Puller... Amazon.com: XMHF Adjustable 2-Jaw Gear Puller Motorcycle Car Auto Removal Tool Kit for Gears, Pulley, and Flywheel : Automotive
 

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