P1135, Trac, VSC and Ck Engine Lights

Que

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2002 with roughly 149,000 miles on it. driving around yesterday I get these lights pop up on the instrument cluster. do a little research on here and see I need the "P" code. went to Autozone and they find P1135 with "no definition". I figure easy day just jump back on here and search........
I see mixed opinions and varying results. everything from A?F heater sensor to replace cats.
one thing I found was a temporary fix was if I open the gas cap and then screw it back down the engine lights disappears next start up for a few miles.
just curious of the opinions of the masses given the additional gas cap info.

thanks
 
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It's the Air Fuel Ratio Sensor. Just replaced mine last week. Make sure you get the sensor that is made by Denso. If you can do the job yourself it will only cost about $100 for the part. If you need a shop to do it, it will cost $200-$300.

This is the part I used:

Amazon.com: Denso 234-9002 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor: Automotive

Double check to see if you have a cali edition or not because that will determine the part you need. If you have a 2001/2002 year model than the part I linked is what you will need.
 
^^^^What he said. A/F sensor or associated wiring, period. No debate. As it is a heater failure, no way is that code due to the cats. When in doubt, RTFM:
 

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thanks for the info gents. threw me as the lights go off for a bit if I break the gas cap seal.
 
Yeah like the others its the a/f sensor. To save yourself time and headache start soaking the bolts to the sensor in pb blaster. Also invest in a set of irwin nut grippers. It will turn a 3 hour job into a 5 minute job atleast it did for me those nuts are PITA.
 
2002 with roughly 149,000 miles on it. driving around yesterday I get these lights pop up on the instrument cluster. do a little research on here and see I need the "P" code. went to Autozone and they find P1135 with "no definition". I figure easy day just jump back on here and search........
I see mixed opinions and varying results. everything from A?F heater sensor to replace cats.

I had the same lights come on with the same P1135 code (a/f sensor). Ordered the Denso 234-9002 a/f sensor & just replaced it today. 10mm & 12mm socket is all I needed I don't have any rust so I didn't run into any issues. Make sure the cats/exhaust have cooled down if you have driven it before you attempt this so you don't burn yourself.
 
^^^^What he said. A/F sensor or associated wiring, period. No debate. As it is a heater failure, no way is that code due to the cats. When in doubt, RTFM:

Kind of a hijack but OP may run into the same issue. When researching the a/f sensor & cat info, I frequently came across info you suggested which was very helpful. After I changed the A/F sensor, my CEL light is still on & my OBDII is still showing the same P1135 code. I am under the impression that I have to drive around for a bit for things to "equalize" so the P1135 code will go away but after about a 15-20mile drive the code is still there & wondering if I just need to drive it some more?
 
Kind of a hijack but OP may run into the same issue. When researching the a/f sensor & cat info, I frequently came across info you suggested which was very helpful. After I changed the A/F sensor, my CEL light is still on & my OBDII is still showing the same P1135 code. I am under the impression that I have to drive around for a bit for things to "equalize" so the P1135 code will go away but after about a 15-20mile drive the code is still there & wondering if I just need to drive it some more?

Did you clear the code after replacing it? Even if it's now a history code the light will/can stay on.
 
Did you clear the code after replacing it? Even if it's now a history code the light will/can stay on.

I agree, clear the code. I don't honestly know if it will ever clear itself, but if the problem is not resolved after clearing, it will light up again almost instantly on the second start-up. No delay on a heater test, but it is 2-trip detection. Then you know it's a wiring issue if it comes back. I always clear after repairing, so I've never faced this issue. If you don't have a scanner, either pull the EFI fuse or disconnect battery negative for a few minutes and it will have the same effect.
 
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Did you clear the code after replacing it? Even if it's now a history code the light will/can stay on.


I agree, clear the code. I don't honestly know if it will ever clear itself, but if the problem is not resolved after clearing, it will light up again almost instantly on the second start-up. No delay on a heater test, but it is 2-trip detection. Then you know it's a wiring issue if it comes back. I always clear after repairing, so I've never faced this issue. If you don't have a scanner, either pull the EFI fuse or disconnect battery negative for a few minutes and it will have the same effect.

Ahh, I did not clear the code...wasn't sure if it was supposed to go away with driving it or if I was supposed to clear it. I do have an OBDII so will clear it tomorrow
 
Ahh, I did not clear the code...wasn't sure if it was supposed to go away with driving it or if I was supposed to clear it. I do have an OBDII so will clear it tomorrow

If the issue is truly fixed, it will go out on its own, but it can take up to 40 key cycles to happen. And by key cycles, I mean a cycle in which the parameters are met for self diag of a given system. It can take a LONG time.
 
If the issue is truly fixed, it will go out on its own, but it can take up to 40 key cycles to happen. And by key cycles, I mean a cycle in which the parameters are met for self diag of a given system. It can take a LONG time.

Yup, I think I know exactly what you mean about having to meet the drive cycle conditions. This past winter I was told by emissions to drive my 4runner until my "readiness monitors" reset. Couple thousand miles later still didn't reset. It finally reset when I took it through the specific toyota drive patterns from the tsb...& it didn't reset until I followed the steps EXACTLY.
 
Yup, I think I know exactly what you mean about having to meet the drive cycle conditions. This past winter I was told by emissions to drive my 4runner until my "readiness monitors" reset. Couple thousand miles later still didn't reset. It finally reset when I took it through the specific toyota drive patterns from the tsb...& it didn't reset until I followed the steps EXACTLY.

That's for a P0420 (cat efficiency test). P1135 (the HO2S test) completes almost instantly on each of 2 trips. The EVAP test is the other that can take a while, but it is not as bad as cat efficiency.

In fact, while it takes two trips to set a fail, I'm pretty sure it sets "HO2S test complete" after one start-up. I have been watching my cat efficiency test after a reset and the other tests will all show complete after a reset with just a single key-on.
 
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could the gas cap cause these lights and the P1135 code? I ask due to the fact that I've been able to clear the lights by cracking open the gas cap and then retightening. did that again yesterday and currently the lights are off.
 
could the gas cap cause these lights and the P1135 code? I ask due to the fact that I've been able to clear the lights by cracking open the gas cap and then retightening. did that again yesterday and currently the lights are off.

There ARE codes for the EVAP system that will clear this way, but P1135 is not one of them. So I suspect your current code is something else.
 
Update: Yesterday morning I went out to my car to clear the code and when I cranked it up, the lights were already gone.
 
There ARE codes for the EVAP system that will clear this way, but P1135 is not one of them. So I suspect your current code is something else.

I appreciate the reply. odd as it is the code on the reader was P1135. only thing I have done is loosen and retighten the gas cap and the warning lights are off. who knows when or if they will stay off. the next fill up may cause this again. I'll update as things happen. I have the A/F sensor on order and may wind up replacing anyways.... time will tell.
 
finally got around to changing the A/F sensor. codes cleared after three starts. for whatever reason the codes would clear for a short bit after refueling. don't know it just happened.
thankfully no problems with the 12mm nuts that secure it. no rust at all.....southern vehicle with clean underbody!!

thanks for the assist folks
 
finally got around to changing the A/F sensor. codes cleared after three starts. for whatever reason the codes would clear for a short bit after refueling. don't know it just happened.
thankfully no problems with the 12mm nuts that secure it. no rust at all.....southern vehicle with clean underbody!!

thanks for the assist folks

I have no idea why a P1135 would clear after refueling. I don't even have a theory.
 
finally got around to changing the A/F sensor. codes cleared after three starts. for whatever reason the codes would clear for a short bit after refueling. don't know it just happened.
thankfully no problems with the 12mm nuts that secure it. no rust at all.....southern vehicle with clean underbody!!

thanks for the assist folks

I have no idea why a P1135 would clear after refueling. The only thing I can think of is that maybe a pending evap code is clearing and causing a retest of all the monitors, clearing the P1135 temporarily. If you get an evap code in the future, that would confirm it. Really, only the evap codes have anything to do with refueling.
 

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